Valve Adjustment, oil, diff fluid, tranny fluid, spark plugs - oh boy
04-17-2017, 08:30 PM
#11
After my first valve adjustment on my AP2, I repeated the job before starting the engine because I knew my feel for gauging the valves had changed and improved from when I started the job.
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SkidPad (04-18-2017)
04-18-2017, 06:25 AM
#12
i love seeing threads like this. if i had a garage and tools i'd be inclined to do this stuff myself, but i'm mostly exhausted from work on days off and just want to be lazy and have things done by a professional, lol.
had my valves done professionally last week, mechanic said they were pretty loose. quicker throttle response and smoother operation, swear it even revs faster now. this has been money VERY well spent for labor.
my spark plugs are torqued to 19, is that too low?
had my valves done professionally last week, mechanic said they were pretty loose. quicker throttle response and smoother operation, swear it even revs faster now. this has been money VERY well spent for labor.
my spark plugs are torqued to 19, is that too low?
darcy
04-20-2017, 11:39 AM
#13
If you re-torque spark plugs do you need a new washer?
Also, on valve adjustments, I'm still kicking around the idea I might do this myself, does the "go no go" method work on this car? Set it very tight on one blade too big, pull it out with pliers, and then check how the correct size blade feels - ie little or no drag.
Also, on valve adjustments, I'm still kicking around the idea I might do this myself, does the "go no go" method work on this car? Set it very tight on one blade too big, pull it out with pliers, and then check how the correct size blade feels - ie little or no drag.
04-20-2017, 05:29 PM
#14
If you re-torque spark plugs do you need a new washer?
Also, on valve adjustments, I'm still kicking around the idea I might do this myself, does the "go no go" method work on this car? Set it very tight on one blade too big, pull it out with pliers, and then check how the correct size blade feels - ie little or no drag.
Also, on valve adjustments, I'm still kicking around the idea I might do this myself, does the "go no go" method work on this car? Set it very tight on one blade too big, pull it out with pliers, and then check how the correct size blade feels - ie little or no drag.
04-21-2017, 02:12 AM
#15
I know what is going to happen to me. I'm going to do this myself and I'll end up ever so slightly unsure about how the blade is supposed to feel to put the gap at the right place. I guess the thing to do is to err a tiny bit on the loose side of the spectrum, or certainly not snug. I also think part of this is having good ears. You need to know what the engine sounds like when properly adjusted and pay attention. When/if you notice the valve noise has quieted down, open it up and check. I think with this car a little valve noise is your friend. This stuff is hard to keep in mind when you put your car to bed 4-5 months a year. You tend to forget the sounds.
Last edited by rpg51; 04-21-2017 at 02:14 AM.
04-21-2017, 02:45 AM
#16
Since the valves tighten in use set to the high side of the spec, especially the exhaust valves. Intake 0.25mm/0.010". Exhaust 0.29mm/0.011". Bent feeler gauges are necessary. You'll break your straight gauges if you try to bend them. Special Honda 10mm valve too is under $15 on Amazon.
Spark plug torque was updated to 24lb-ft several years ago according to a pen and ink note in my Service Manual.
Put the car on jack stands and do your back a large favor when adjusting the valves. Engine needs to be cold - under 100°F.
-- Chuck
Spark plug torque was updated to 24lb-ft several years ago according to a pen and ink note in my Service Manual.
Put the car on jack stands and do your back a large favor when adjusting the valves. Engine needs to be cold - under 100°F.
-- Chuck
04-21-2017, 03:41 AM
#17
I just came across Billman's opinion on the gaps for the s2k -
"Set them at .008 on the Intakes. .008 should fit snug. tiny force to get it in there. .007 will go in with no drag or feel at all. .009 will take great force or not fit at all. This is called the go-no-go method and is the only way to do it right.
On an untouched s2k, you'll find most of the intakes are at .010 now. Exhausts are likely at .011-.012.
Set exhausts at .010 on exhausts. Same go-no-go method as the intakes."
See here:https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un.../#post21295246
I note Billman's comment that his settings have stayed put for 100K miles. Has me thinking again about maybe just giving this job to my very experienced mechanic rather than buying the various blades and adjustment tool and spending a half day messing with this. Seems the key is to adjust the valves early in the car's life and then just check them every now and then but no need to check every year or anything like that. Always listening for changes, (reduced noise), in the valve noise. I'll sleep on it. If I wasn't working 60 hours a week I would do it myself. As it is, I am not as anxious to dive in.
"Set them at .008 on the Intakes. .008 should fit snug. tiny force to get it in there. .007 will go in with no drag or feel at all. .009 will take great force or not fit at all. This is called the go-no-go method and is the only way to do it right.
On an untouched s2k, you'll find most of the intakes are at .010 now. Exhausts are likely at .011-.012.
Set exhausts at .010 on exhausts. Same go-no-go method as the intakes."
See here:https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un.../#post21295246
I note Billman's comment that his settings have stayed put for 100K miles. Has me thinking again about maybe just giving this job to my very experienced mechanic rather than buying the various blades and adjustment tool and spending a half day messing with this. Seems the key is to adjust the valves early in the car's life and then just check them every now and then but no need to check every year or anything like that. Always listening for changes, (reduced noise), in the valve noise. I'll sleep on it. If I wasn't working 60 hours a week I would do it myself. As it is, I am not as anxious to dive in.
Last edited by rpg51; 04-21-2017 at 03:49 AM.
04-21-2017, 08:11 AM
#18
You can pull the plug as many times as you want and NOT chcnge the washer but after you pull them the first time you should put some anti-seize on the threads. The NGK plugs that I use come with anti-seize on them but its only good for the first removal, after that I put some A-S on the threads.
ROD
ROD
04-21-2017, 08:16 AM
#19
Could you point to the anti-seize you use?
04-21-2017, 01:35 PM
#20
[QUOTE=rpg51;24193206]I just came across Billman's opinion on the gaps for the s2k -
"Set them at .008 on the Intakes. .008 should fit snug. tiny force to get it in there. .007 will go in with no drag or feel at all. .009 will take great force or not fit at all. This is called the go-no-go method and is the only way to do it right.
On an untouched s2k, you'll find most of the intakes are at .010 now. Exhausts are likely at .011-.012.
Set exhausts at .010 on exhausts. Same go-no-go method as the intakes."
I work at the Honda Engine plant here in Ontario and we use a "go / no go" method to check the valve after they are set. Takes all the guess work out of it for the people online who do an engine every 50sec. Even after they installed a robot to set the valves we still check with this method.
"Set them at .008 on the Intakes. .008 should fit snug. tiny force to get it in there. .007 will go in with no drag or feel at all. .009 will take great force or not fit at all. This is called the go-no-go method and is the only way to do it right.
On an untouched s2k, you'll find most of the intakes are at .010 now. Exhausts are likely at .011-.012.
Set exhausts at .010 on exhausts. Same go-no-go method as the intakes."
I work at the Honda Engine plant here in Ontario and we use a "go / no go" method to check the valve after they are set. Takes all the guess work out of it for the people online who do an engine every 50sec. Even after they installed a robot to set the valves we still check with this method.