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Vibration under acceleration wont go away after new half shafts install

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Vibration under acceleration wont go away after new half shafts install

 
Old 03-01-2018, 05:09 PM
  #21  
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I have seen countless times a vibration get worse, or caused all together, by aftermarket axles.

If the vibration is under acceleration, it is the axles guaranteed.

Swap the buckets and put the oem axles in the car.

If the axle shafts are the skinnier solid type, then it is definitely the axles.

Last edited by Billman250; 03-01-2018 at 05:14 PM.
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Old 03-01-2018, 06:28 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Nightshade1 View Post


well I found upon pulling my coils that cylinder 3 coil was covered in oil. The plug covers I’ll have to inspect later it’s raining. No garage at the moment. No leaks from the engine or underneath the engine checked this a few days ago when my AP1 was in the air. As for the mounts they are not new, I’ll check after the storm passes. Thanks S2KJunky
Oil getting between the spark plug and coil contact area could certainly cause a misfire, however there is a pretty good seal around the plug so even if the tube seals are weeping, there is a chance its still remains around the outside isolated form the plug, but you would have a better idea inspecting in person, then I can guess from here. I will say again though that this ECU is pretty good at picking up a misfire, so if its severe enough to feel, it should be triggered. You could try sitting stationary and slowly raise the idle to 2-3-4k and see how the engine behaves at each rpm point, if it gives you more indication of a cylinder missing. How do the spark plugs look? We can get an indication of how the engine is running based on how these look. Pics would be nice if you can, but be mindful to mark corresponding plug to cylinder for troubleshooting.

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Old 03-01-2018, 06:30 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Billman250 View Post
I have seen countless times a vibration get worse, or caused all together, by aftermarket axles.

If the vibration is under acceleration, it is the axles guaranteed.

Swap the buckets and put the oem axles in the car.

If the axle shafts are the skinnier solid type, then it is definitely the axles.
Not sure if you went though all the post or not, but we started there and examined this already and currently looking at a few other options based on new info from OP, but very well may end up full circle.
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Old 03-01-2018, 06:39 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Nightshade1 View Post

also stage 2 clutch ACT, and lightened flywheel


Always some level of possibility with an aftermarket set up, but if it actuates properly/clutch pedal feels good with proper free play and trans shift well this likely isn't related. Is there any rotational noise coming from trans area wile sitting in car at idle with clutch pedal out and then quiets down when pedal pushed to floor? There typically is some slight noise, but shouldn't be too noticeable unless you really key in on it. You can try raising the idle speed to 2-3k, and perform the same operation and see how loud/vibration may be present to give you further indication of a problem which would either be the throw out bearing or input shaft bearings in trans.
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Old 03-01-2018, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Billman250 View Post
I have seen countless times a vibration get worse, or caused all together, by aftermarket axles.

If the vibration is under acceleration, it is the axles guaranteed.

Swap the buckets and put the oem axles in the car.

If the axle shafts are the skinnier solid type, then it is definitely the axles.
Yeah i will be changing the aftermarket axles out all together with some Ballade Sports rebuilt OEM axles soon.
Regardless if they are causing another issue with my AP1 or not i don't want to wait until the cheap axles fail.
Thanks for your input Billman, just trying to find where this vibration is coming from when the car is at a steady 4000 RPM, the car could be in neutral and you would feel it in the shifter.
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Old 03-01-2018, 10:02 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky View Post
Oil getting between the spark plug and coil contact area could certainly cause a misfire, however there is a pretty good seal around the plug so even if the tube seals are weeping, there is a chance its still remains around the outside isolated form the plug, but you would have a better idea inspecting in person, then I can guess from here. I will say again though that this ECU is pretty good at picking up a misfire, so if its severe enough to feel, it should be triggered. You could try sitting stationary and slowly raise the idle to 2-3-4k and see how the engine behaves at each rpm point, if it gives you more indication of a cylinder missing. How do the spark plugs look? We can get an indication of how the engine is running based on how these look. Pics would be nice if you can, but be mindful to mark corresponding plug to cylinder for troubleshooting.
No stored codes, yet the ECU may or may not be stock.
I was told the ECU was MUGEN, and the larger capacity oil pan is definitely MUGEN so the car has had modification.
I'm buying new seals top and bottom for the valve cover / coils.
I'll pull #3 coil and run it to see if it triggers a check engine light / and or is indeed working.
I will send some pictures of the plugs (each corresponding to firing order) soon.
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Old 03-02-2018, 01:24 PM
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i could've swore i had a response in this thread for this issue...OP do you have another thread regarding this issue somewhere else as well?
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Old 03-02-2018, 06:22 PM
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Ok so I took apart and added new tube seals and adjusted the valve cover spark plug hole seals, they were not seating properly and allowed oils to get into tube 3 and 4.
I took the spark plugs out to check the condition and clean the tubes.


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Old 03-02-2018, 07:59 PM
  #29  
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Ahhh yeah you got a problem there. Assuming as pictured starting from 1234. You got some serious oil contamination on #2 and no doubt that is causing some rough running on that cylinder. #3 same thing but with the addition of what looks like water contamination with the oil. But 1 and 4 look a bit on the damp side, from what looks like some unburnt fuel, so not ideal either. Tube seals is one thing, but im a little concerned about where the water is coming from, if coolant/HG issue, or managed to come in from outside from possible valve cover getting wet and managed to get on the plug when removing. I would absolutely replace your plugs now that you have replaced the tube seals, see how the car runs, pull the plugs again in 50-100 miles and lets see how they look. Hows the oil on the dipstick look out of curiosity?
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Old 03-03-2018, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky View Post
Ahhh yeah you got a problem there. Assuming as pictured starting from 1234. You got some serious oil contamination on #2 and no doubt that is causing some rough running on that cylinder. #3 same thing but with the addition of what looks like water contamination with the oil. But 1 and 4 look a bit on the damp side, from what looks like some unburnt fuel, so not ideal either. Tube seals is one thing, but im a little concerned about where the water is coming from, if coolant/HG issue, or managed to come in from outside from possible valve cover getting wet and managed to get on the plug when removing. I would absolutely replace your plugs now that you have replaced the tube seals, see how the car runs, pull the plugs again in 50-100 miles and lets see how they look. Hows the oil on the dipstick look out of curiosity?
Well the water droplets in the picture might just be tiny specks of rain. I was in a covered area but the wind kicked up occasionally. As for how wet the plug is with oil, it got that way when I took them out as the spark plug tubes 3 and 4 were a quarter full of oil until I unscrewed the plugs and it drained. The oil on the dipstick looks like it’s getting darker now after 3000 on Amsoil 10w30 signature synthetic.
I bought a case of 12 so I’ll be doing a change soon. After cleaning up the area the car felt better but the vibration is still there, I unplugged a coil pack and started the car, no check engine light but the F20 ran so rough that there’s no way I have misfire or a dead coil like that in any of the cylinders.
I’m going to be in the shop this Sunday so I’ll put the car up and check all bolts and remove the spacers. Run a compression test and swap the plugs.

I’m going to buy some oem axles soon, I need to replace the junk that’s on there anyway so even if it doesn’t completely take care of all my AP1 issues it will be a good start. My favorite money pit.
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