Vibration under acceleration wont go away after new half shafts install
#31
Former Sponsor
Check your diff bushings. I had this issue and also chased it around with the usual fixes with swapping the CV cups, in the process, found that one diff bushing was torn. Swapping side to side didn't fix the issue, new bushing came in, replaced. problem solved.
#32
OK it's been a minute but i was able to get into the shop today and make some changes.
Good to report that since installing the valve cover gaskets and changing plugs my oil consumption and engine vibration has normalized and improved DRAMATICALLY.
Changed the oil 2 weeks ago with Amsoil 10W30 Full Synth like it had before and it has not lost or burned any oil in 600 miles.
I also have changed the lugs back to ball seat on my oem wheels.
Now as for the main issue of the new axles (half-shafts) vibrating under acceleration 45+mph, i removed the new DSS axles both driver and passenger side.
I still had the axles that i removed prior to installing the DSS axles (one was in a scrap pile, the other in the trunk of my Honda civic.)
The axles i removed as it turns out are made by "The Driveshaft Shop" rated for 500hp. (someone was getting froggy)
Cleaned them out with shop towels and checked them for pitting on all sides. I found they didn't have the characteristics of pitted CV cups requiring a swap.
The walls of the CV cups were smooth and looked undamaged.
I repacked them with Redline CV-2 High performance Red Moly grease and massaged them in and packed them tight for an overnight marinade. (The grease smells incredible)
Massaged in Shin-Etsu grease on the CV boots and Axle boots (also in good condition), dressing the half shaft splines with Redline CV-2 grease as well.
At the shop my buddy and i installed some new BLOX spacers that had been laying around in a box, with new hardware and the freshly packed and dressed Driveshaft Shop 500HP Axles.
I also changed the Amsoil MTF for AcDelco Synchromesh W/Friction Modifier,
and changed out the Amsoil 75W-90 in the differential for Amsoil 75w-110 and put in about about 2 OZ of Redline friction modifier in that as well.
When i drained the fluid there were shavings on the diff plug but they could have been there a while, fluid was clean.
The AP1 i warmed up and took out for a drive and there is barely a slight vibration under load from like 45-60mph, as opposed to the massive vibration there was before with the DSS axles.
The axles for the Driveshaft Shop look like they are a solid design too so this could be the feedback characteristics from having a solid half shaft.
Also the car feels smoother than when i bought it and i can hit VTEC again without the AP1 feeling like it was going to shutter apart.
I have a J's ETD Engine Torque Dampener that is installed but I'm not sure of the engine/trans mount condition, i need to look at those next, and install rear lower ball joints i bought from Honda.
Driveshaft Shop axle
Driveshaft Shop axle
Driveshaft Shop axle
DSS axles. Do Not Buy cheap axles for our cars. Lesson learned.
Driveshaft Shop Axles packed with Redline CV-2
Good to report that since installing the valve cover gaskets and changing plugs my oil consumption and engine vibration has normalized and improved DRAMATICALLY.
Changed the oil 2 weeks ago with Amsoil 10W30 Full Synth like it had before and it has not lost or burned any oil in 600 miles.
I also have changed the lugs back to ball seat on my oem wheels.
Now as for the main issue of the new axles (half-shafts) vibrating under acceleration 45+mph, i removed the new DSS axles both driver and passenger side.
I still had the axles that i removed prior to installing the DSS axles (one was in a scrap pile, the other in the trunk of my Honda civic.)
The axles i removed as it turns out are made by "The Driveshaft Shop" rated for 500hp. (someone was getting froggy)
Cleaned them out with shop towels and checked them for pitting on all sides. I found they didn't have the characteristics of pitted CV cups requiring a swap.
The walls of the CV cups were smooth and looked undamaged.
I repacked them with Redline CV-2 High performance Red Moly grease and massaged them in and packed them tight for an overnight marinade. (The grease smells incredible)
Massaged in Shin-Etsu grease on the CV boots and Axle boots (also in good condition), dressing the half shaft splines with Redline CV-2 grease as well.
At the shop my buddy and i installed some new BLOX spacers that had been laying around in a box, with new hardware and the freshly packed and dressed Driveshaft Shop 500HP Axles.
I also changed the Amsoil MTF for AcDelco Synchromesh W/Friction Modifier,
and changed out the Amsoil 75W-90 in the differential for Amsoil 75w-110 and put in about about 2 OZ of Redline friction modifier in that as well.
When i drained the fluid there were shavings on the diff plug but they could have been there a while, fluid was clean.
The AP1 i warmed up and took out for a drive and there is barely a slight vibration under load from like 45-60mph, as opposed to the massive vibration there was before with the DSS axles.
The axles for the Driveshaft Shop look like they are a solid design too so this could be the feedback characteristics from having a solid half shaft.
Also the car feels smoother than when i bought it and i can hit VTEC again without the AP1 feeling like it was going to shutter apart.
I have a J's ETD Engine Torque Dampener that is installed but I'm not sure of the engine/trans mount condition, i need to look at those next, and install rear lower ball joints i bought from Honda.
Driveshaft Shop axle
Driveshaft Shop axle
Driveshaft Shop axle
DSS axles. Do Not Buy cheap axles for our cars. Lesson learned.
Driveshaft Shop Axles packed with Redline CV-2
#35
Registered User
you can google pinion nut differential and click on images.
since it is a crush sleeve, it's possible that it gets loose over time. or worn bearings may also cause it to get loose.
since it is a crush sleeve, it's possible that it gets loose over time. or worn bearings may also cause it to get loose.
#36
That piece i have not checked. Although a new propeller shaft was installed recently (OEM Honda with Honda bolts and washers) I can check that nothing has gone loose or damaged.
Piece 22 & 25 on the Honda Diagram
Last edited by SennAP1; 03-20-2018 at 04:36 PM.
#37
Moderator
Checking that pinion nut is a bad idea. You can slowly add torque to the nut to see if its tight. However, if you move that nut at all, expect the dif to fail shortly after.
The vibration is not coming from any lose pinion nut. It is a characteristic of solid shaft axles in the S2000.
The vibration is not coming from any lose pinion nut. It is a characteristic of solid shaft axles in the S2000.
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SennAP1 (03-21-2018)
#38
Checking that pinion nut is a bad idea. You can slowly add torque to the nut to see if its tight. However, if you move that nut at all, expect the dif to fail shortly after.
The vibration is not coming from any lose pinion nut. It is a characteristic of solid shaft axles in the S2000.
The vibration is not coming from any lose pinion nut. It is a characteristic of solid shaft axles in the S2000.
When i made this change back to the Driveshaft Shop axles the vibration diminished but didn't completely dissipate, but this lead me to realize the lesser evil.
Came to the conclusion from yours and others previous post that it was indeed a characteristic of the solid half axles (No matter the quality of the solid half-shaft design).
Until i decide to replace them with a different style or OEM i will know this is feedback from them.
The more the grease has been getting worked into the CV cups the better the AP1 has been performing.
I truly appreciate everyone who posted on this in trying to help resolve this and get my car running as it should.
I have been investigating piece by piece as to what has been modified from the previous owners, and changing things over to restore it to it's intended integrity.
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