What to do before one year storage?
05-02-2018, 03:37 PM
#1
Thread Starter
What to do before one year storage?
I have an unusual situation. I recently acquired an 03 s2k. I just picked it up from the seller last week, it was in cold storage in his garage in Maine. I am about to put it back in storage for at least one year, maybe more. The prior owner bought the car new. He drove it very little - especially during the last few years. The car has 17K miles. It is in pristine condition, at least cosmetically. It runs very strong.
The engine oil and filter were changed before it went into winter storage last year, and he changed it regularly on the normal schedule, at least annually when he did not drive it much. The engine oil looks virtually brand new right now and it has maybe 100-200 miles on it. The oil is synthetic, I believe that the transmission oil and dif oil have never been changed. Same with the brake fluid and clutch fluid. Same with the coolant. Same with the air filter and the cabin filter. I think they are all original.
I am trying to sort out what to do before I put it back in storage. I am going to drive it for a week or so to give it a bit of exercise and tease out any problems which I honestly don't expect. I will give it an alignment which I am sure it has never had. Not that it seems out of alignment - but I want to know where its at and I want to set it the way I like it.
Does it make sense to just wait until I put the car back in storage before changing all these fluids and filters? Or, should I do it now?
Also, at some point before it get pressed into active duty, my plan is to adjust the valves and change the plugs which are original - 15 years old. Do it now? Or after it comes out of storage?
What do you all think?
I sure do feel lucky to have such problems.
The engine oil and filter were changed before it went into winter storage last year, and he changed it regularly on the normal schedule, at least annually when he did not drive it much. The engine oil looks virtually brand new right now and it has maybe 100-200 miles on it. The oil is synthetic, I believe that the transmission oil and dif oil have never been changed. Same with the brake fluid and clutch fluid. Same with the coolant. Same with the air filter and the cabin filter. I think they are all original.
I am trying to sort out what to do before I put it back in storage. I am going to drive it for a week or so to give it a bit of exercise and tease out any problems which I honestly don't expect. I will give it an alignment which I am sure it has never had. Not that it seems out of alignment - but I want to know where its at and I want to set it the way I like it.
Does it make sense to just wait until I put the car back in storage before changing all these fluids and filters? Or, should I do it now?
Also, at some point before it get pressed into active duty, my plan is to adjust the valves and change the plugs which are original - 15 years old. Do it now? Or after it comes out of storage?
What do you all think?
I sure do feel lucky to have such problems.
05-02-2018, 04:12 PM
#2
Fluids should be done before any sort of driving if it's really sat for that long (including coolant).
I would also look at the tires. If they are the original tires, I would replace them for sure before driving. As for storing, I would dismount the wheels and leave it on jack stands. This keeps the tires for having a flat spot after sitting for 1 year. I would check all suspension rubber components. With it sitting that long under the weight of the vehicle, it is probably dried out completely. You won't see any issues with them unless you drive it. Most likely the next speed bump/pot hole/ steep driveway will cause splitting in one or more bushings/end link. Without driving it, you can check it with a pry bar. Move control arms up and down to see if anything starts to separate.
Valves shouldn't go out of adjustment due to time. I would categorize that as a mileage maintenance. Same goes for plugs.
Definitely replace the filters. Cabin air filter is a dice roll. Sometimes it's squeaky clean, other times you'll find that a rodent has made it it's home (I've seen that too many times).
All in all, it's definitely a nice problem to have. Nice find and good luck!
I would also look at the tires. If they are the original tires, I would replace them for sure before driving. As for storing, I would dismount the wheels and leave it on jack stands. This keeps the tires for having a flat spot after sitting for 1 year. I would check all suspension rubber components. With it sitting that long under the weight of the vehicle, it is probably dried out completely. You won't see any issues with them unless you drive it. Most likely the next speed bump/pot hole/ steep driveway will cause splitting in one or more bushings/end link. Without driving it, you can check it with a pry bar. Move control arms up and down to see if anything starts to separate.
Valves shouldn't go out of adjustment due to time. I would categorize that as a mileage maintenance. Same goes for plugs.
Definitely replace the filters. Cabin air filter is a dice roll. Sometimes it's squeaky clean, other times you'll find that a rodent has made it it's home (I've seen that too many times).
All in all, it's definitely a nice problem to have. Nice find and good luck!
05-02-2018, 04:53 PM
#3
For me, I wouldn't worry about the tires till you return. let the tires deteriorate in storage, but I like the jack stands idea- just be sure that if your area is prone to flooding, someone can get the car out in double quick time.
Leave the car in reverse (why, I don't know but its in the manual).
Unlatch the top.
Change your trans oil- don't worry about changing it in a year- It'll be fine.
Change the diff oil- don't worry about changing it in a year- it'll be fine. Change the engine oil and drive it around for an hour until everything is good and hot to allow moisture to evaporate. Then fill the car with fuel to full - don't forget your Stabil.
Take the seat belts out of the seat slots and let them hang. Leather cleaner/preservative on the seats. Put a bunch of desiccant pouches in the cabin and trunk.
Change brake fluid. Don't worry about replacing it in a year unless you're completely anal like myself - I change my brake fluid every year.
I spray my car's underside and bolts with a product called rust check (Canadian product) or use a similar protective spray film product- just keeps metal parts protected, unless your car is staying is a dry, dry, dry, storage facility.
Cover the intake opening and exhaust with stuff to keep out vermin- maybe place mothballs around the car/engine bay. Remove the battery and put it on a tender- storing the car for so long, I'd be afraid if the battery somehow started leaking.
If your coolant has never been changed (a 2003 needs it to be done in 2013 and 2018 and 2023 and so on).
Remove the plugs and spray in some engine fogging product- you don't want to fill the cylinders too much, just follow the directions- otherwise you're in for a bad day when you restart the car. Put the plugs back in to 20 ftlbs.
When you go to start your car 1 year later, pull the 15A fuel pump fuse. Manually turn the car over clockwise with the crank bolt a few revolutions- don't forget to remove the tool you used on the crank bolt. Then crank the car over to build oil pressure- once the oil light goes out, plug the 15A fuse back in. Go ahead and start the car.
good luck.
darcy
Leave the car in reverse (why, I don't know but its in the manual).
Unlatch the top.
Change your trans oil- don't worry about changing it in a year- It'll be fine.
Change the diff oil- don't worry about changing it in a year- it'll be fine. Change the engine oil and drive it around for an hour until everything is good and hot to allow moisture to evaporate. Then fill the car with fuel to full - don't forget your Stabil.
Take the seat belts out of the seat slots and let them hang. Leather cleaner/preservative on the seats. Put a bunch of desiccant pouches in the cabin and trunk.
Change brake fluid. Don't worry about replacing it in a year unless you're completely anal like myself - I change my brake fluid every year.
I spray my car's underside and bolts with a product called rust check (Canadian product) or use a similar protective spray film product- just keeps metal parts protected, unless your car is staying is a dry, dry, dry, storage facility.
Cover the intake opening and exhaust with stuff to keep out vermin- maybe place mothballs around the car/engine bay. Remove the battery and put it on a tender- storing the car for so long, I'd be afraid if the battery somehow started leaking.
If your coolant has never been changed (a 2003 needs it to be done in 2013 and 2018 and 2023 and so on).
Remove the plugs and spray in some engine fogging product- you don't want to fill the cylinders too much, just follow the directions- otherwise you're in for a bad day when you restart the car. Put the plugs back in to 20 ftlbs.
When you go to start your car 1 year later, pull the 15A fuel pump fuse. Manually turn the car over clockwise with the crank bolt a few revolutions- don't forget to remove the tool you used on the crank bolt. Then crank the car over to build oil pressure- once the oil light goes out, plug the 15A fuse back in. Go ahead and start the car.
good luck.
darcy
05-02-2018, 07:30 PM
#5
Thread Starter
1. My debate was whether to change all these fluids now, or wait until it comes out of storage. Thanks all for the input on that. I'm persuaded to change them all now.
2. D'Arcy - when you spray the undercarriage, do you have it on a lift? Up on jack stands? How do you get under there to do this?
3. Tires - these tires are going to be tossed, or perhaps used for storage if I end up leaving it sitting on the tires, (Putting it on stands may be impossible at the storage location, and to be honest I'm not 100% convinced jack stands is the way to go if you store on old tires). It will have some nice BBS JDM 16" wheels and fresh tires when it gets put back into service.
4. The car has an OEM hard top. Would you store the hard top separately, (my inclination is yes, hang the top in rafters of my garage with DIY lift), or would you store it on the car with the soft top folded down? My feeling is it is best to have the soft top up and unlatched for long term storage. Agree?
5. On the bushings drying out. They all look really good to me right now. I'll give them a good close inspection when I have the alignment done. I'll have all the bolts removed and replaced with a bit of anti-seize as well so that will be a chance to inspect carefully. But, I don't think that is an issue at this point - thankfully.
6. Battery - yes, my habit is to pull the battery and store it on a good smart tender in heated space for all the same reasons you state.
7. As far as the valve lash and plugs go. There has been so much ink splashed on these pages about tight valves and ruined engines that I am going to give them a look before it starts getting a lot of use. I know the issue is the DBW cars - still, I want to put my mind at ease and get them set correctly. If I remember correctly the OEM maintenance schedule provides that the plugs should be changed at 8 years no matter the miles. Its cheap. I'm gonna change them. I did the plugs and VA to my other ap1 (2002) last year at about 15K miles and, unless I'm experiencing a bit of the placebo effect, it think made a noticeable difference in the performance of the motor. Again, its cheap and easy. No down side. It will give me a fresh baseline start with the car and some peace of mind.
Thanks all for your help thinking this through. Good lord I enjoy these cars.
Rob.
2. D'Arcy - when you spray the undercarriage, do you have it on a lift? Up on jack stands? How do you get under there to do this?
3. Tires - these tires are going to be tossed, or perhaps used for storage if I end up leaving it sitting on the tires, (Putting it on stands may be impossible at the storage location, and to be honest I'm not 100% convinced jack stands is the way to go if you store on old tires). It will have some nice BBS JDM 16" wheels and fresh tires when it gets put back into service.
4. The car has an OEM hard top. Would you store the hard top separately, (my inclination is yes, hang the top in rafters of my garage with DIY lift), or would you store it on the car with the soft top folded down? My feeling is it is best to have the soft top up and unlatched for long term storage. Agree?
5. On the bushings drying out. They all look really good to me right now. I'll give them a good close inspection when I have the alignment done. I'll have all the bolts removed and replaced with a bit of anti-seize as well so that will be a chance to inspect carefully. But, I don't think that is an issue at this point - thankfully.
6. Battery - yes, my habit is to pull the battery and store it on a good smart tender in heated space for all the same reasons you state.
7. As far as the valve lash and plugs go. There has been so much ink splashed on these pages about tight valves and ruined engines that I am going to give them a look before it starts getting a lot of use. I know the issue is the DBW cars - still, I want to put my mind at ease and get them set correctly. If I remember correctly the OEM maintenance schedule provides that the plugs should be changed at 8 years no matter the miles. Its cheap. I'm gonna change them. I did the plugs and VA to my other ap1 (2002) last year at about 15K miles and, unless I'm experiencing a bit of the placebo effect, it think made a noticeable difference in the performance of the motor. Again, its cheap and easy. No down side. It will give me a fresh baseline start with the car and some peace of mind.
Thanks all for your help thinking this through. Good lord I enjoy these cars.
Rob.
Last edited by rpg51; 05-03-2018 at 02:30 AM.
05-03-2018, 03:18 AM
#6
I understand what your plans are. However it it was mine I'd drive it now and then during the nice months maybe putting 500-1000 miles on it, then store it in the winter like you do your other one.
Levi
Levi
05-03-2018, 03:42 AM
#7
one of my s2ks has now been stored on/off for 2+ years. Once a year i drive it for week or so. Change oil and give it some wash/wax. Then add some fuel stabil and fill tank. Pump the tires to 50psi and add some moisture catcher trays on the floor. Lightly spray engine area with some silicone based spray to stop surface oxidation etc. And it goes back under cover. So far no issues or damage.
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05-03-2018, 04:51 AM
#8
Have the radio codes filed before storage as they're lost when the battery is removed or goes dead. Battery tenders are not fool proof. I had one fail and only put out about 9 volts so it drained the battery down to that level.
Like the owners manual states cover the car.
-- Chuck
Like the owners manual states cover the car.
-- Chuck
05-03-2018, 07:36 AM
#9
Fluids should be done before any sort of driving if it's really sat for that long (including coolant).
I would also look at the tires. If they are the original tires, I would replace them for sure before driving. As for storing, I would dismount the wheels and leave it on jack stands. This keeps the tires for having a flat spot after sitting for 1 year. I would check all suspension rubber components. With it sitting that long under the weight of the vehicle, it is probably dried out completely. You won't see any issues with them unless you drive it. Most likely the next speed bump/pot hole/ steep driveway will cause splitting in one or more bushings/end link. Without driving it, you can check it with a pry bar. Move control arms up and down to see if anything starts to separate.
Valves shouldn't go out of adjustment due to time. I would categorize that as a mileage maintenance. Same goes for plugs.
Definitely replace the filters. Cabin air filter is a dice roll. Sometimes it's squeaky clean, other times you'll find that a rodent has made it it's home (I've seen that too many times).
All in all, it's definitely a nice problem to have. Nice find and good luck!
I would also look at the tires. If they are the original tires, I would replace them for sure before driving. As for storing, I would dismount the wheels and leave it on jack stands. This keeps the tires for having a flat spot after sitting for 1 year. I would check all suspension rubber components. With it sitting that long under the weight of the vehicle, it is probably dried out completely. You won't see any issues with them unless you drive it. Most likely the next speed bump/pot hole/ steep driveway will cause splitting in one or more bushings/end link. Without driving it, you can check it with a pry bar. Move control arms up and down to see if anything starts to separate.
Valves shouldn't go out of adjustment due to time. I would categorize that as a mileage maintenance. Same goes for plugs.
Definitely replace the filters. Cabin air filter is a dice roll. Sometimes it's squeaky clean, other times you'll find that a rodent has made it it's home (I've seen that too many times).
All in all, it's definitely a nice problem to have. Nice find and good luck!
05-03-2018, 09:44 AM
#10
Lots of good info in here. I will add:
Cover exhuast pipes too, to guard against rodents
DO NOT start the car periodically during storage. That will only create moisture that will then sit and induce oxidation. Pickle it, and leave it.
Cover exhuast pipes too, to guard against rodents
DO NOT start the car periodically during storage. That will only create moisture that will then sit and induce oxidation. Pickle it, and leave it.