S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Who wants to help me troubleshoot bad bearing noises?

Thread Tools
 
Old 05-15-2016, 01:11 PM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
freakinhippie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Who wants to help me troubleshoot bad bearing noises?

My S2000 started making some horrible noises that sound like bad bearings coming from the rear passenger side. I'm not sure if they're hub bearings going bad or the output shaft bearings, or both. I'm hoping that someone here is willing to help me troubleshoot the noises. I've uploaded a video, mostly audio, to youtube. This was recorded by strapping an old smart phone to the rear suspension and recording a short drive around the block. I didn't exceed 20 mph during the drive. The bearing torture sounds horrible, but the sound is much more difficult to hear from the driver's seat, even with the top down.

Troubleshooting Video

Would any of you seasoned mechanics be willing to give it a listen and let me know what you think? I would certainly appreciate it.

Thanks.
Old 05-16-2016, 02:20 AM
  #2  

 
Slowcrash_101's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 5,228
Received 405 Likes on 339 Posts
Default

These cars don't have hub bearings, the wheel bearings are pressed into the knuckles and the hub is then pressed into the bearing. Takes about 2 3/4 tons of force to press them in.

Dems wheel bearings alright.
Old 05-16-2016, 05:03 AM
  #3  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
freakinhippie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101
These cars don't have hub bearings, the wheel bearings are pressed into the knuckles and the hub is then pressed into the bearing. Takes about 2 3/4 tons of force to press them in.

Dems wheel bearings alright.
So the place to start would be replacing the wheel bearings, correct? Do you have any thoughts on where I should source them from? By the way, thank you for your insight.
Old 05-16-2016, 11:39 AM
  #4  

 
Slowcrash_101's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 5,228
Received 405 Likes on 339 Posts
Default

You'll most likely have to replace the hubs, understand this, OEM is best, you can never go wrong with it. That said, OEM is expensive as hell. The Bearings are $76 and the hubs are $137 each. If you don't mind ponying up the cash this is by far your best option. I will say this, I've had Ebay oem bearings and taiwanese hubs on my car for a few years and so far no problems. Installing them correctly, and then using the proper torque on the axle nut is critical. 181 ft lbs is not enough and this causes the bearings to wear prematurely. You need to go 181ft lbs + ~ 60 degrees or roughly ~400 ft lbs, you'll need a 3/4 breaker bar to get that nut on there properly. Once you do, no matter how much lateral g's you put on the axle that bearing won't move a mm.

There are many DIY's on the web and around here for the exact procedure. It's not too complicated, you pull the axle nut, unbolt the wheel speed sensor, then unbolt the control arms from the knuckle. Then you spend a bit of time figuring out how to position the knuckle flat. Then you press out the hub, then remove the snap ring, afterwards, you press out the outer race that's left in the knuckle. Then you press in the bearing on the outer race, and then the hub with the inner race supported so you don't ruin your new bearing. You can use the old bearing as a die, and a big socket to support the inner race. If you want, you can inspect the old hub, then throw it away. Then put everything back in reverse order.

By far the hardest part is unbolting the knuckle from the car and replacing it because you have to be a wizard to work in those tight ass spaces.

TQ values are as follows, lower ball join is 50-70ft lbs, upper is 36-50ft lbs, control arm is 36-48ft lbs. Install the castle nut to lowest tq setting then tighten only until the castle nut lines up with the hole in the ball joint so you can stick a cotter pin/clip in there(NEVER LOOSEN THE CASTLE NUT TO ALIGN IT ONLY TIGHTEN IT). Oh btw those clips that come on the car, if you have them, you can re-use them with confidence. Also make sure you pre load the suspension(raising the control arms to standing ride height) before tightening all the way, if you don't have power tools and the ball joint starts rotating as you tighten the nut you can use a C-clamp on the arm and the knuckle to keep it from spinning. Install your new axle nut with a little bit of oil on the face(you should use a new one), and take your 36mm socket tighten to 181ft-lbs and then with your big ass 3/4 breaker bar crank that bish one face over, stake your axle nut.
Old 05-16-2016, 03:54 PM
  #5  
Community Organizer

 
freq's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: in my garage
Posts: 20,991
Received 185 Likes on 163 Posts
Default

freakinhippie, buy Slowcrash_101 a
Old 05-16-2016, 05:41 PM
  #6  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
freakinhippie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101
You'll most likely have..., stake your axle nut.
You sir, are a gentleman and a scholar! Thank you for the thorough explanation of what needs to be done! I'd like to buy you a beer.
Old 05-19-2016, 04:57 AM
  #7  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
freakinhippie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I wanted to post back and let everyone know that with the help of Slowcrash_101 I was able to replace my bearing successfully!

Slowcrash, check your PMs.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
edi57
UK & Ireland S2000 Community
12
09-14-2016 02:30 PM
DangerZone9K
S2000 Brakes and Suspension
1
09-10-2012 12:11 PM
vietdragontekx
S2000 Under The Hood
20
02-16-2011 01:05 AM
tk416
S2000 Under The Hood
5
05-28-2010 04:01 AM
Quivers
S2000 Under The Hood
4
12-29-2005 05:58 PM



Quick Reply: Who wants to help me troubleshoot bad bearing noises?



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 12:00 PM.