Will crank and sometimes start lol
Needing some help on figuring out an issue with my 02 S2k. So engine was rebuilt and after installing it’s been giving me starting issues. So I’ve narrowed the problem down to the #2 cam sensor. Although it is new I backprobes my scope in it and it gives me a weak signal. So I looked under the valve cover, and there are dings or dents on the cam. My theory was that there’s a short somewhere in the harness. So I ran two wires from the straight to the ecm and still no start. The only way I can get it to run is if unplug the sensor. And then it will actually fire up. Any feedback is appreciated thanks in advance.
worth noting that coils are new spark plugs are new cam sensors are new, timing components are new and align perfectly. |
!QUOTE=cedo;25048223]So I looked under the valve cover, and there are dings or dents on the cam.[/QUOTE]
This doesn't sound good. Do you have photos of these dents? Thanks! |
Originally Posted by windhund116
(Post 25048253)
Originally Posted by cedo
(Post 25048223)
So I looked under the valve cover, and there are dings or dents on the cam.
Thanks! |
Originally Posted by cedo
(Post 25048254)
This doesn't sound good. Do you have photos of these dents?
Thanks! So there are no dings and dents --- on anything? |
Yeah, like how do you typo dents and dings?
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Originally Posted by Car Analogy
(Post 25048262)
Yeah, like how do you typo dents and dings?
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Have you driven it with newly rebuilt engine,or have been ?
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Originally Posted by noodels
(Post 25048270)
Have you driven it with newly rebuilt engine,or have been ?
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hope you have tried swapping cam sensor plugs ?
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Camshafts/cam Gear oriented properly? Timing marks ok?
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Originally Posted by starchland
(Post 25048300)
Camshafts/cam Gear oriented properly? Timing marks ok?
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...3b58cf9e1d.jpg This is how the timing sits currently |
Originally Posted by noodels
(Post 25048292)
hope you have tried swapping cam sensor plugs ?
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had mine wrong way round :rolleyes:
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cams are correct inlet /exhaust & timing correct :thumbup:
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Also I think it’s worth mentioning before anyone suggests it. The ground point on the back of the head has been cleaned and is good. The only other ground points I know are on the lower driver side of the block.
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is it spitting back when trying ? can you film it and post it up ?
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Any chance it's the ECU itself?
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Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101
(Post 25048352)
Any chance it's the ECU itself?
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Originally Posted by noodels
(Post 25048313)
is it spitting back when trying ? can you film it and post it up ?
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Will give people an idea by sound,inc compression, timing,battery condition,fuel & spark, so if its trying to start ect ect..
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T
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...7c92ac6d56.jpg his was my issue thank you to all who contributed |
Intake cam sprocket pin split, seizing the sprocket in a position that was slightly off. I should be able to change the cam and sprocket and the car should start right up.
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Originally Posted by cedo
(Post 25049280)
T
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...7c92ac6d56.jpg his was my issue thank you to all who contributed |
Originally Posted by RolanTHUNDER
(Post 25050918)
That's definitely a problem! Glad you finally found it.
Thanks! |
Originally Posted by windhund116
(Post 25051165)
How does something like this happen?
Thanks! |
Originally Posted by RolanTHUNDER
(Post 25051355)
I'm wondering the same thing. Maybe it happened when someone tried to force it out during uninstall :ponder:
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...3181edf4bf.gif |
I suspect an offset wood ruff key timing adjustment modification failure..:melodramatic:
it may have marking on it ? |
Those were the original cams that were on the block that threw a rod. I’m think mid high rev engine locked up and broke the pin. And I’ve also read oil starvation from a dirty vtec screen. But I’m glad I found it. Just got cams in and now I’m running into a different issue. Where the #1 cam cap just snapped. if anyone has any clue on how to deal with this without changing the head on my newly built engine that would be great
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...035f2bc8d.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...74ee946d6.jpeg |
That may need line boring,have you another to put in ?
Have you checked for bent camshaft ? |
Originally Posted by noodels
(Post 25051894)
That may need line boring,have you another to put in ?
Have you checked for bent camshaft ? |
Location ?
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You need a new set of cam caps.
Make sure sure you back out the valve adjustment bolts before you torque down the new caps. |
Thats the best option :thumbup: how much are they ?
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Originally Posted by noodels
(Post 25051902)
Location ?
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Originally Posted by flanders
(Post 25051915)
You need a new set of cam caps.
Make sure sure you back out the valve adjustment bolts before you torque down the new caps. |
Camshafts are much easier to come by however.
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I'd imagine that you'd be buying a lot more parts if the engine was allowed to break the camshaft(s).
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If anyone knows where I can get some caps that would be great. Found one guy but it looks like he quit replying. So if anyone knows where to look please let me know.
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I have but in UK,not cost effective tbh .search Billman TCT in USA
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Post here: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/want-buy-132/
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Whoa! Get a new set of cam caps (they're matched from factory so buy the full matched set). Get new bolts if any are stretched or look suspect. You need to hand tighten each bolt in sequence (check service manual). The sequence is CRUCIAL! Then you need to start at a low torque setting like 6 ft lbs and work your up to 16 ft lbs (can't remember final torque but its around this figure). Aim to torque them all down in 3 to 4 passes. Turn the engine by hand to ensure the cams spin freely and nothing binds. And like Flanders said above, loosen your adjustment screws first.
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Originally Posted by RolanTHUNDER
(Post 25052247)
Whoa! Get a new set of cam caps (they're matched from factory so buy the full matched set). Get new bolts if any are stretched or look suspect. You need to hand tighten each bolt in sequence (check service manual). The sequence is CRUCIAL! Then you need to start at a low torque setting like 6 ft lbs and work your up to 16 ft lbs (can't remember final torque but its around this figure). Aim to torque them all down in 3 to 4 passes. Turn the engine by hand to ensure the cams spin freely and nothing binds. And like Flanders said above, loosen your adjustment screws first.
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Yes
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Out of luck the dealer doenet have anything except a complete Head. If anyone in the US has something that would be great.
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Originally Posted by cedo
(Post 25053864)
Out of luck the dealer doenet have anything except a complete Head. If anyone in the US has something that would be great.
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It's not just the caps the lower journals are matched to the caps. You need the whole set, or you risk siezing the camshaft.
It's possible to get away with it, but it's also possible you ruin the head. |
Forgot lower is not part of the head :rolleyes:
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Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101
(Post 25054354)
It's not just the caps the lower journals are matched to the caps. You need the whole set, or you risk siezing the camshaft.
It's possible to get away with it, but it's also possible you ruin the head. OP might be in for quite an expensive purchase :feint: |
https://www.ebay.com/itm/16636369083...mis&media=COPY
Just popped up. Hopefully you can get this resolved OP. |
Luckily I found some came in two weeks ago, but my shop has been swamped so I haven’t been able to put them in. Paid way less too for a set that looks much cleaner with cams and bolts a long with it. I got 2 good sets of cams I’ll probably just end up selling them when it’s all said and done. Thanks for the link
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