Rusted sub frame on 1998 Honda Accord
08-09-2014, 06:58 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Rusted sub frame on 1998 Honda Accord
I just got bad news about my 1998 Honda Accord. It has performed reliably through 139K miles, and now the dealer mechanic told me that the front sub frame assembly is completely rusted out and is unsafe to drive!
I was shocked because this is the first time that any repairman has mentioned this.
A quick search on Google revealed that on many, many 1998-2003 Accords, the right passenger side front sub frame rusts because Honda stupidly routed the end of the air conditioner drain right above the sub frame. The rusting is very evident for someone looking underneath the car who is doing an oil change or even changing a tire and has the car up on a hoist. There are many YouTube videos showing the exact rust problem and cause. The sub frame assembly on the driver's side is rust free. In 2004, the Accords have a relocated AC drain hose.
We were planning to take the Accord on a two week car trip to Upper Michigan and then over to Maine at the end of the month. Now, if we go, we either take the S2000 (cramped, miniature trunk), take our 20 year old Camry, or I buy a new car in the next few days.
Has anyone else had problems with rotted out sub frames on their Accord? Up to now, I had supreme faith in Honda engineering and workmanship, but now my confidence in them, and in their dealers is shaken.
Since Honda has never done a recall for this problem, I don't think that they would do anything for me. The dealer said that fixing the sub frame would cost $1800. He also wants to replace rusty brake lines, install a new clutch and flywheel, install a new timing belt and water pump. The total cost if I repaired everything on the Accord is almost $5000.
I was shocked because this is the first time that any repairman has mentioned this.
A quick search on Google revealed that on many, many 1998-2003 Accords, the right passenger side front sub frame rusts because Honda stupidly routed the end of the air conditioner drain right above the sub frame. The rusting is very evident for someone looking underneath the car who is doing an oil change or even changing a tire and has the car up on a hoist. There are many YouTube videos showing the exact rust problem and cause. The sub frame assembly on the driver's side is rust free. In 2004, the Accords have a relocated AC drain hose.
We were planning to take the Accord on a two week car trip to Upper Michigan and then over to Maine at the end of the month. Now, if we go, we either take the S2000 (cramped, miniature trunk), take our 20 year old Camry, or I buy a new car in the next few days.
Has anyone else had problems with rotted out sub frames on their Accord? Up to now, I had supreme faith in Honda engineering and workmanship, but now my confidence in them, and in their dealers is shaken.
Since Honda has never done a recall for this problem, I don't think that they would do anything for me. The dealer said that fixing the sub frame would cost $1800. He also wants to replace rusty brake lines, install a new clutch and flywheel, install a new timing belt and water pump. The total cost if I repaired everything on the Accord is almost $5000.
08-09-2014, 08:39 PM
#2
That's why cars like my 55 year old MG are still on the road - they had a very solid frame. I hated giving up my 18 year old Nissan Maxima for the very same reason as yours - there was no place left strong enough so I could jack it up even when the body looked good. If your brake lines are still original, they were really on borrowed time. I've replaced all the ones on my 1997 truck and it's just hitting 100k now. The motivation began when one let go!!! Thankfully it happened where I could slow down without incident. I'd say it's time to go new car shopping.
08-10-2014, 06:09 AM
#3
Community Organizer
Do the brakes , they're important and probably should have been done a long time ago anyway.
Get a brand new subframe from Keystone (or whoever) and get it replaced.
As for the clutch / flywheel and timing belt, cross those bridges when you get there.
I had a '99 Accord Coupe automatic V6, I was the second owner. Sold it to my brother who has replaced lots of different parts on that car including the transmission. Easily 190K miles on that car now.
Get a brand new subframe from Keystone (or whoever) and get it replaced.
As for the clutch / flywheel and timing belt, cross those bridges when you get there.
I had a '99 Accord Coupe automatic V6, I was the second owner. Sold it to my brother who has replaced lots of different parts on that car including the transmission. Easily 190K miles on that car now.
08-10-2014, 08:42 AM
#6
Registered User
I scrapped a '94 Integra about a year ago because of rust. The passenger side A-pillar had a rust hole; the underside was rusted badly. I didn't trust the structural integrity of the vehicle, so I sold it to a wrecking yard. It was a real shame, because the car ran fine. I replaced it with a VW (12-year rust perforation warranty vs. Honda's 3 years.)
A couple of years earlier, I had to replace sections of the brake and fuel hard lines under the car because of rust. I almost scrapped the car then instead of fixing the lines, because I really did NOT want to do the work. Rusted brake lines are an accident waiting to happen. I had a scarey 30 seconds or so when one of mine let go as I went down the hill towards the stop sign at the highway/river. Had I been making a panic stop instead of a gentle stop at a stop sign 1/2 mile from my house, it would have turned out badly for me and potentially others.
When was the timing belt replaced, if ever? I suspect it is recommended at about 110k miles, but your owner's manual should have the official maintenance schedule. If the belt fails, pistons hit valves and the repair becomes much more expensive than just the belt and water pump.
Clutch and flywheel can be left until they fail or display signs of imminent failure; their failure may require a tow but the cost of repair won't be greatly increased.
A couple of years earlier, I had to replace sections of the brake and fuel hard lines under the car because of rust. I almost scrapped the car then instead of fixing the lines, because I really did NOT want to do the work. Rusted brake lines are an accident waiting to happen. I had a scarey 30 seconds or so when one of mine let go as I went down the hill towards the stop sign at the highway/river. Had I been making a panic stop instead of a gentle stop at a stop sign 1/2 mile from my house, it would have turned out badly for me and potentially others.
When was the timing belt replaced, if ever? I suspect it is recommended at about 110k miles, but your owner's manual should have the official maintenance schedule. If the belt fails, pistons hit valves and the repair becomes much more expensive than just the belt and water pump.
Clutch and flywheel can be left until they fail or display signs of imminent failure; their failure may require a tow but the cost of repair won't be greatly increased.
08-10-2014, 08:55 AM
#7
I agree with Red. Replace the timing belt and water pump. I wouldn't be too concerned with the clutch, I'm still on the original. If the brake lines are pitted, get them replaced. The $1.8K seems high for the sub frame repair, but the peace of mind of having it done correctly is probably worth the extra $$. You should be in good shape with a $2.5k investment instead of a $25K or more investment for a new car. Also, I could only fine 11 reported cases of this problem.
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08-10-2014, 12:59 PM
#8
A careful review of he remainder of the vehicle would be in order.
Occasionally you get an isolated rust spot but I suspect you may find other areas that are "interesting."
Occasionally you get an isolated rust spot but I suspect you may find other areas that are "interesting."
08-10-2014, 04:02 PM
#9
I say go car shopping. Why put any money in a car that is that old? Buy Sue a new car too. 
Better safety features, blue tooth, gadgets await you.
We replaced my 2002 Jeep this year. I am a huge fan of some of the new stuff, including blue tooth and a heated steering wheel. Never even knew I needed one of those until I got one.
Better safety features, blue tooth, gadgets await you.
We replaced my 2002 Jeep this year. I am a huge fan of some of the new stuff, including blue tooth and a heated steering wheel. Never even knew I needed one of those until I got one.
08-10-2014, 04:44 PM
#10
Registered User
Central Ohio (GoBlueS2k lives about 20 miles from me) is notoriously generous with the salt in the winter. It eats cars.
The subframe and brake lines are safety items; the timing belt, if past due for replacement, will cost thousands more if it fails. I'd consider that a necessary repair if I planned to keep the car. If you're just wanting to get a few thousand more miles out of it and don't mind having it towed to the salvage yard if the belt fails, then take your chances.
The clutch can wait, but it's probably only around $1500 of the $5,000 total. So you're looking at $3500 in repairs if you want to keep the 16-year old car, knowing that the clutch could then go at any time (or it could last another 100k miles).
You've got some thinking to do. I'd recommend finding a good independent shop that specializes in Honda vehicles (or at least Japanese cars). Have them evaluate the car for you, and see what they recommend. They can use parts sources other than Honda, their labor rate is like;y lower than the dealer (got to pay for that fancy dealership storefront somehow), and may be better suited to fixing your old car. Unfortunately, I cannot recommend anyone but there's got to be someone in the Columbus, Ohio, metro area.