As drawn, the circuit would never turn on the neons.

 

I had this done at a shop and my blue lights are so much brighter. I will try to post a pic as soon as I get my car back.

a[e

 

Here is a test fitment with pictures, I didn't wire it yet. This is a no rice mod. I was going to use white lights, but the red just looks too good, 12" on each side. Even though I have red carpet, I have a feeling normal white domelights wouldn't look as good as this... It probably could never be as deep in color. Now you can find all that long lost change and buy yourself a supercharger, hehe.











I'm going to follow the instructions on this page toI so the lights to TURN on when the door opens AND when I move the dome light switch manually to ON, when inside the car and doors are closed (so if you drop something, you can get light without having to open a door). When I get more time in the next few weeks I will try to wire it up.

 

Looks nice...

 

very nice!!!!

 

Thanks. MacGyver, as you know I haven't wired this up yet, just took the test pics and found where to mount them.

A few quetions for you and others:

I don't think I'm going to wire it to the domelight with the 2nd relay. I'm going to just follow your diagram with one relay.

I have a 12v 20/30-amp relay that has a layout like this, but:



Mine has NO 87a though. Would mine work?

Also, to get the additional 12-volt resource, could I just run a new lead from the fuse box or can I grab constant at the radio? Not sure if I had to run a new wire from battery?

From what you said, I only need to tap one wire to have the neon

 

87 and 87a attach to the same point inside the relay (part of the switch). Frankly, I'm not exactly sure why they provide two contact points, but it's irrelevant for this project.

I suggest against using the radio power for two reasons: 1) the stock wiring doesn't allow a lot of current through, and 2) neons require an inverter, which means a lot of high-frequency noise will most likely end up on the power cable.

Nod on the wire...

Instead of the 2-position switch shown in my schematic, you need a 3-position....2 contacts are connected as shown, and the third is simple left open (thereby connecting the neons to nothing).

Nod on the tube wiring...

 

i have blacklights in my footwells....i payed someone $30 to wire them for me haha i love em excet the one on the drivers side is burned out....gotta replace it asap....

 

Ok.

 

I have it all hooked up, but it will only work with the 2 position spst switch(2 prongs in back). It will come on all the time, or just when the door are opened, like it should.

Now, when I try it with the 3 position(center off) spdt switch (3 prongs in back), I can't get it to work right.

How do the wires need to be on the 3 postion switch in the back?