What is this clunking?
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2010
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What is this clunking?
It's not my wheel bearings/hubs - those were just replaced and got rid of the other sound.
-I don't think it's the cv-cups pitting problem (not lowered and still on the stock OEM springs/shocks).
-It occurs in all gears when starting from a complete stop (well, 1, 2, and 3. I don't think the car will move in fourth from a stop), including reverse
-It mainly happens when applying load on the drive-train, so when I get off of the gas and coast for a bit and get on the throttle, I will also hear the clunk.
-nothing unusual as far as the overall car behavior. everything "feels" fine.
-no sounds or clunking while cornering both steady state (such as a free way interchange) and transitioning (slaloming)
-both trans and diff fluid were changed 3K miles ago - nothing unusual to observe
The car is currently on jack stands - I was trying to get video of me checking out the axles/drive shaft, but the car is still hot and I don't feel like getting burned by all the hot pipes. Also, I don't know what i'm looking for as far as checking for play. I'm planning on posting up another video of the described stuff both in gear and neutral. Any other suggestions?
Thanks,
cell phone vid below. You can hear the clunk right at the beginning and a few more times when I lightly get on the throttle.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tRWV...e_gdata_player
-I don't think it's the cv-cups pitting problem (not lowered and still on the stock OEM springs/shocks).
-It occurs in all gears when starting from a complete stop (well, 1, 2, and 3. I don't think the car will move in fourth from a stop), including reverse
-It mainly happens when applying load on the drive-train, so when I get off of the gas and coast for a bit and get on the throttle, I will also hear the clunk.
-nothing unusual as far as the overall car behavior. everything "feels" fine.
-no sounds or clunking while cornering both steady state (such as a free way interchange) and transitioning (slaloming)
-both trans and diff fluid were changed 3K miles ago - nothing unusual to observe
The car is currently on jack stands - I was trying to get video of me checking out the axles/drive shaft, but the car is still hot and I don't feel like getting burned by all the hot pipes. Also, I don't know what i'm looking for as far as checking for play. I'm planning on posting up another video of the described stuff both in gear and neutral. Any other suggestions?
Thanks,
cell phone vid below. You can hear the clunk right at the beginning and a few more times when I lightly get on the throttle.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tRWV...e_gdata_player
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 480
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I am getting a similar noise coming from the diff. Although mine seems to be more of a clicking/tapping noise from the pinion shaft. I suspect I may have damaged a tooth.
Noises, vibrations and other irregular driving characteristics can often help diagnose a differential or driveline problem. Here are a few typical symptoms and their possible cause:
Whirring noise only while decelerating at any or all speeds is most likely caused by bad pinion bearings or loose pinion bearing preload, and almost never by bad ring and pinion gears.
A howl or whine during acceleration over a small or large speed range is usually caused by worn ring and pinion gears or improper gear set up.
Rumbling or whirring at speeds over about 20 mph can be caused by worn carrier bearings. The noise may change while turning.
Regular clunking every few feet may indicate broken ring or pinion gears.
Banging or clunking only on corners can be caused by broken spider gears, lack of sufficient positraction lubrication, or worn positraction clutches.
Rumble while turning may indicate bad wheel bearings.
A steady vibration that increases with the vehicle’s speed can be caused by worn u-joints or an out of balance driveshaft.
Clunking only when starting to move or getting on and off the gas might be loose yokes, bad u-joints or worn transfer case or transmission parts
Whirring noise only while decelerating at any or all speeds is most likely caused by bad pinion bearings or loose pinion bearing preload, and almost never by bad ring and pinion gears.
A howl or whine during acceleration over a small or large speed range is usually caused by worn ring and pinion gears or improper gear set up.
Rumbling or whirring at speeds over about 20 mph can be caused by worn carrier bearings. The noise may change while turning.
Regular clunking every few feet may indicate broken ring or pinion gears.
Banging or clunking only on corners can be caused by broken spider gears, lack of sufficient positraction lubrication, or worn positraction clutches.
Rumble while turning may indicate bad wheel bearings.
A steady vibration that increases with the vehicle’s speed can be caused by worn u-joints or an out of balance driveshaft.
Clunking only when starting to move or getting on and off the gas might be loose yokes, bad u-joints or worn transfer case or transmission parts
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2010
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Unfortunately, I wouldn't know what i'm looking for...
-Additionally, the clunking is really only when first applying load. Once there is load on the drive train, I don't hear anything. I can do a WOT pull - no sounds or vibrations (OEM exhaust, so I'm pretty sure i'm not drowning it out).
This started around beginning of May (just after the April BW CW13 S2KC event). I've been driving on it ever since, with no signs of worsening. Keeping my fingers crossed that it's just something minor (i.e. <$1K to fix), but I'm definitely preparing for something worse like a broken diff...
-Additionally, the clunking is really only when first applying load. Once there is load on the drive train, I don't hear anything. I can do a WOT pull - no sounds or vibrations (OEM exhaust, so I'm pretty sure i'm not drowning it out).
This started around beginning of May (just after the April BW CW13 S2KC event). I've been driving on it ever since, with no signs of worsening. Keeping my fingers crossed that it's just something minor (i.e. <$1K to fix), but I'm definitely preparing for something worse like a broken diff...
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It does sound very similar to the noise the diff makes when locking/unlocking. I would try to rule that out first. Check to make sure the axle nut is torqued enough. Some have suggested 250lbft because the recommended 220 isn't enough. Just because the hubs/bearings were replaced doesn't mean it was done right. Test those ball joints as well. Check the nuts/bolts and make sure they are torques to spec ... top of the shock towers, arms, trans mount, subframe bolts and all other bolts that have been known to come loose or have been removed during its life. You will find the issues as there aren't that many areas to check. Happy hunting!
-Marc
-Marc
Joined: Nov 2011
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I had a similar clunk that was far more irregular that I chased for a long time, that I finally found to be one upper bolt on a rear control arm wasnt torqued down and was allowing the upper arm to shift.
If you put the car in the air on jackstands and engage the clutch in 1st/reverse gear does it happen? If so get someone to walk around and look while to you do it, thats how I eventually found my problem
If you just had the wheel bearings replaced, check torque on ALL control arms and ball joints, since they have all been apart. Ill bet something got missed.
If you put the car in the air on jackstands and engage the clutch in 1st/reverse gear does it happen? If so get someone to walk around and look while to you do it, thats how I eventually found my problem
If you just had the wheel bearings replaced, check torque on ALL control arms and ball joints, since they have all been apart. Ill bet something got missed.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2010
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Test those ball joints as well. Check the nuts/bolts and make sure they are torques to spec ... top of the shock towers, arms, trans mount, subframe bolts and all other bolts that have been known to come loose or have been removed during its life. You will find the issues as there aren't that many areas to check. Happy hunting!
-Marc
-Marc
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Originally Posted by sirbunz' timestamp='1374375529' post='22678008
It does sound very similar to the noise the diff makes when locking/unlocking. I would try to rule that out first.
I'll have to hunt around for all of this stuff... Thanks for the tips.
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im going to jack this thread and continue it
here is my new clicking / squeaking noise / grinding on my street/track ap2... i hear it when i first roll or stop as lighter clicks.... then a louder frog sound once or twice per rotation
http://www.youtube.c...h?v=ZF8LqinHGnU
lugs are properly torqued, have not replaced wheel bearings , its not a constant sound or hum like i thought bad bearings were supposed to sound like
the metal on metal sound at the end is my racing pads on the rotor, but at the same time u can hear the lighter clicks when coming to stop
maybe brakes or axle ? or bearing?
its only the driver side rear currently
here is my new clicking / squeaking noise / grinding on my street/track ap2... i hear it when i first roll or stop as lighter clicks.... then a louder frog sound once or twice per rotation
http://www.youtube.c...h?v=ZF8LqinHGnU
lugs are properly torqued, have not replaced wheel bearings , its not a constant sound or hum like i thought bad bearings were supposed to sound like
the metal on metal sound at the end is my racing pads on the rotor, but at the same time u can hear the lighter clicks when coming to stop
maybe brakes or axle ? or bearing?
its only the driver side rear currently