Silver_Bullet_S

So I need some help regarding what seem to be oil squirters that I have for my 2006 S2k; if anyone can help me out I'd be very grateful.

Backstory: About 2 years ago I had the cylinder head machined and rebuilt w/ a full Ferrea valve train due to a blown head gasket. I also towed the car w/ the head removed to Clark's Machine Shop in Cupertino, CA (big mistake - terrible machine shop - avoid this shit hole at all costs) and had them pull the block and machine it flat because it warped from overheating. I also had them install an ACT clutch/pp/and flywheel. I tore down the cylinder head myself, but had Clark's do the rest of the work on the block and trans. My dad passed away in the meantime and so I put the rebuild on hold for 1.5 years until I was ready to get back into it.

So first Clark's machined the block and reinstalled it back in the car, but forgot to install the ACT clutch/pp/flywheel. These idiots had the nerve to charge me again to tear it down and reinstall this stuff when they're the one's who forgot to install it in the first place. I gave in because I just wanted my car back, and decided that I would reinstall the head myself since they're such screw ups.

When I got the car towed back home, I noticed a bag that Clark's had given me with the parts shown in the pictures below, which appear to be oil squirters from the block (with one bolt missing as well!). I'm furious becasue the block and trans has been put back in the car and for whatever reason these morons forgot to reinstall these oil squirters (no stroker kit - the pistons/rods/crank are all still OEM, so there should be no clearance issues). First these monkeys forget the clutch/pp/flywheel, and now this! The shop refuses to take any responsibility and because of the 1.5 yr delay I can't take any legal action...

Now I either have to tear everything back down myself just for 4 oil squirters, which I don't have the time to do; or tow the car to another shop and pay them to do it, which I can't afford.

1) Can anyone out there verify that these are in fact oil squirters from the block?
2) Do I really need these? Please no opinions, only facts. I want to know if I leave these out will I be sacrificing performance/lubrication/longevity/reliability etc.
3) Do all year S2K's have these?
4) How important are they and will I be at a loss or **** up my motor without them?
5) I plan to go FI in the near future, does that change anything?
6) Would you guys go through the trouble of tearing down the block just to reinstall these?
7) Is there a way to reinstall these w/o removing the block and tearing it down? Can I install them by just removing the oil pan, or would the crank be in the way? There is no oil/fluids in the car - the block is still clean and new from the machine shop.

The last thing I want is to find out is that I need them after the motor is put together and have to tear it down again.

Any advice/help is very much appreciated? Thanks so much guys/gals... AND REMEMBER, IF YOU'RE IN CALI & IN THE BAY AREA - DON'T GO TO CLARK'S AUTOMOTIVE REPAIR & MACHINE SHOP CAUSE THEY SUCK ASS!

windhund116

These?

Honda S2000 00-09 F20C1 F22C1 AP1 AP2 Engine Block Oil Jet Squirter SET OEM | eBay

Silver_Bullet_S

thanks bro... yeah I found out that they are definitely oil squriters which appear to be from the engine block... somehow my original post got messed up and it didn't update to the new post I put up once I found out that they are oil squirters. hopefully you can see the new updated post and the backstory about what happened.

Basically, a terrible repair/machine shop known as Clarks Automotive Repair & Machine Shop in Cupertino, CA forgot to install them when working on my car, and now I'm not sure what to do about it.

Here's the questions I have:

1) Can anyone out there verify that these are in fact oil squirters from the block? - Already answered
2) Do I really need these? Please no opinions, only facts. I want to know if I leave these out will I be sacrificing performance/lubrication/longevity/reliability etc.
3) Do all year S2K's have these?
4) How important are they and will I be at a loss or **** up my motor without them?
5) I plan to go FI in the near future, does that change anything?
6) Would you guys go through the trouble of tearing down the block just to reinstall these?
7) Is there a way to reinstall these w/o removing the block and tearing it down? Can I install them by just removing the oil pan, or would the crank be in the way? There is no oil/fluids in the car - the block is still clean and new from the machine shop.

Any info/advice/experience you can share is much appreciated. Thanks so much!

Slowcrash_101

You absolutely need them, if for nothing else, you will lose all oil pressure without them. There are two options, you either plug the bolt holes, or you install them. They are not easy to install, 12ft lbs and you have to be surgically precise, only problem is that the oil pump pickup is in the way of cylinder 1, so installing it requires a flex extension. A flex extension throws off the accuracy of a torque wrench. It's easy to strip the threads on the block, or even damage the block itself.

If you plan to install them do the easier ones first, cyl 4-2 as you can do them with a straight shot. That way you get a feeling for how tight they need to be.

To get at them you have to drop the oil pan and the windage tray.

I can't believe the incompetence of some people that call themselves professionals quite frankly.

Silver_Bullet_S

Thanks so much for your reply! So yeah, I think I'll def install them.

I agree whole heartedly with you about the incompetence thing; I'm pretty pissed... You know this was actually the second machine shop I went to! The first one I used (A&M Machining in Los Gatos, CA) didn't mill the head straight and damaged all the valve guides during install. Then I go to Clark's and they screw up twice!!! Funny thing is, I was a ASE master tech at Honda/Acura for 7 yrs a while back, and if you did this to persons car, you'd be gone the next day.

When I opened the bag and saw what looked to be oil squirters, I was like "No! They couldn't have been this dumb..." I knew my old AP1 didn't have em, panicked... wrote the post; then read that after mid '02 Honda started using them, and how the banjo bolt holes changed.

Getting under the car after a certain age is a pain but I'll put em in. I have all the tools needed and a tq wrench that can accommodate for angles/extensions from back when I was tech. We never got any S2k's in for repair back then at the dealerships, but after tearing this one down it seems pretty straight forward.

Thanks so much for the help.

windhund116

Not only the forgotten oil squirters... but the milled head could also be a problem. With respects to the chain tensioner range of motion. How much did the machine shop take off the head's surface?

Silver_Bullet_S

Hey sorry for the later reply, Went on a trip for a bit. The problem is have no idea how much was taken off the head since so 2 different shops worked on it. I asked if the head still measured within the Honda service limit after the machining and the last machine shop said yes, but as we can see from them leaving out the oil squirters... They're not that competent.

Unfortunately, I think a lot was taken off... The first machine shop I think mentioned taking off around .015" - .018" off, and the second shop may have done the same; so that like .030" total!

I'm expecting my timing to be shot and off several degrees because of this. Because I don't know how much each shop took off exactly I'm not sure how to compensate... I could get a thicker head gasket, but need to have some idea of how much was taken off to make up for the difference correctly. OR I suppose I could the adjustable timing gear that Ballade sells.

Any thoughts or advice? This whole engine rebuild has been a fiasco and such a pain becasue these lousy shops messed everything up and left me in the dark as to what was exactly done. I just want my car back up and running.

Have you or anyone you know had the head resurfaced? Did they have timing issues? Any experience w thicker head gaskets or Ballade's timing chain?

Thanks in advance?

Slowcrash_101

They're only supposed to mill .008" max. The only thing I can think of in your situation is to use a thicker head gasket. It's not ideal for the quech area but it's your only option. The shortest the head can be is 104.75mm or 4.122". The factory head gasket is .030" installed btw, so you'd need a .060" or 1.6mm head gasket to compensate.