new radiator needed and rust - time to call it a day?
#1
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new radiator needed and rust - time to call it a day?
So as title, I need new radiator. seems oem is £350 so which are are best and least expensive aftermarket? I cant see me still having the car in 3 years so as long as it fits i don't care if it only good for 10 years.
re rust - Had it removed from rear arches 12 months ago, looked to be a fantastic job but more has appeared on both arches, The advise given 'is to keep on top of it', but if that means spending maybe £300+ a year just to keep rust at bay, is it really worth it? or maybe the guy i used bodged it so any recommendations for body shops in south or southwest london?
thanks in advance
re rust - Had it removed from rear arches 12 months ago, looked to be a fantastic job but more has appeared on both arches, The advise given 'is to keep on top of it', but if that means spending maybe £300+ a year just to keep rust at bay, is it really worth it? or maybe the guy i used bodged it so any recommendations for body shops in south or southwest london?
thanks in advance
#3
How do you 'keep on top of it?'
i would clean and waxoyl underside and spray loads inside after removing boot liner
but a lot depends on a quality repair i guess
pain..
edit to say just buy a used rad?
i would clean and waxoyl underside and spray loads inside after removing boot liner
but a lot depends on a quality repair i guess
pain..
edit to say just buy a used rad?
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by keep on top, remove it each time it comes back but he wants £150 per wing regardless how much rust he needs to remove. last time i asked him to completely strip the arches and lip and start again. i am not sure if he did and that's way the rust has come back, hence wondering to just call it a day or throw more money at the car only to find the arches are fooked anyway - trouble really stems from fact i only do 2000 miles a year and the car lives outside.
#5
[QUOTE=Rapscallion;24368958 last time i asked him to completely strip the arches and lip and start again. i am not sure if he did .......[/QUOTE]
Sounds to me you are throwing cash at the wrong repairer not the wrong car.
Sounds to me you are throwing cash at the wrong repairer not the wrong car.
#6
Regarding rust, unless it is literally cut away and replaced with fresh, you'll permanently just be chasing it. You cannot fully stop rust, only cut it away or slow it down. Sounds like your guy treated what was there rather than starting with fresh.
Regarding radiator - for a stock replacement, there are plenty of decent looking used ones OEM on ebay for sub £50 (2005 Honda S2000 Denso WATER RADIATOR Rad & Fans 122000 9784 AP1 AP2 Petrol 2.0 | eBay), or new pattern ones for about £80 (Honda S2000 AP 2.0 Convertible 1999-2007 AVA Radiator Rad With A/C Petrol Manual | eBay). For uprated, again there's a few random brands on ebay for about £150 (Water cooler for Honda S2000 2000-2005 RADIATOR FMIC.EU Performance 375×652×52 | eBay). I went with a Tegiwa own brand one which I'm actually really happy with the quality of (TEGIWA ALUMINIUM ALLOY RADIATOR HONDA S2000 | Tegiwa Imports). Really nice bit of kit for the money and a reliable retailer you can go back to if there's any issues.
Regarding radiator - for a stock replacement, there are plenty of decent looking used ones OEM on ebay for sub £50 (2005 Honda S2000 Denso WATER RADIATOR Rad & Fans 122000 9784 AP1 AP2 Petrol 2.0 | eBay), or new pattern ones for about £80 (Honda S2000 AP 2.0 Convertible 1999-2007 AVA Radiator Rad With A/C Petrol Manual | eBay). For uprated, again there's a few random brands on ebay for about £150 (Water cooler for Honda S2000 2000-2005 RADIATOR FMIC.EU Performance 375×652×52 | eBay). I went with a Tegiwa own brand one which I'm actually really happy with the quality of (TEGIWA ALUMINIUM ALLOY RADIATOR HONDA S2000 | Tegiwa Imports). Really nice bit of kit for the money and a reliable retailer you can go back to if there's any issues.
#7
Thing is, it's really difficult to seal the seam around the arches and if you use it in the wet, rust will inevitably re-appear. It's why I'd prefer to straighten metal than to replace a rear wing.
My view tends to be that once it appears and if it bothers you, it's probably time to kick it in the head.
If you can live with touching over it, then get some paint, an Abralon pad and a replacement radiator...
My view tends to be that once it appears and if it bothers you, it's probably time to kick it in the head.
If you can live with touching over it, then get some paint, an Abralon pad and a replacement radiator...
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#8
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Thanks guys, good tips on the rad's/rust
re rust, have used this guy before on a largish front wing ding 6 or 7 years ago which was and is still immaculate so not sure its all down to him.
The rust doesn't bother me as such, more the chasing it around and i am not really into car diy! so in reality i'll offload the car sooner rather than later
thanks all
re rust, have used this guy before on a largish front wing ding 6 or 7 years ago which was and is still immaculate so not sure its all down to him.
The rust doesn't bother me as such, more the chasing it around and i am not really into car diy! so in reality i'll offload the car sooner rather than later
thanks all
#9
Tegiwa radiators are real lookers!!
Look so good compared to the mush removed!
Only word of warning was my mechanic said as it was 'thicker' than OEM it was a snug fit, defo needed working in from top and bottom if you see what I mean.
Looks fantastic, works better ... :-)
IMHO...
Look so good compared to the mush removed!
Only word of warning was my mechanic said as it was 'thicker' than OEM it was a snug fit, defo needed working in from top and bottom if you see what I mean.
Looks fantastic, works better ... :-)
IMHO...
#10
Tegiwa radiators are real lookers!!
Look so good compared to the mush removed!
Only word of warning was my mechanic said as it was 'thicker' than OEM it was a snug fit, defo needed working in from top and bottom if you see what I mean.
Looks fantastic, works better ... :-)
IMHO...
Look so good compared to the mush removed!
Only word of warning was my mechanic said as it was 'thicker' than OEM it was a snug fit, defo needed working in from top and bottom if you see what I mean.
Looks fantastic, works better ... :-)
IMHO...