Ap1 valve pictures ? Cracked ? Can lobes ok
10-22-2017, 01:42 AM
#2
Sorry had issue uploading these!
More details AP1 2003 103,000 miles UK new to me car. N service history so was interested to check and do valve adjustment.
Couple of the intake valves were less than 0.08 inches s adjusted those.
Couple of the exhaust valves were more than 0.012 inches so adjusted them too.
I cant see any evidence of cracked valves (see pictures) but would like experienced members opinions.
Also cam lobes seemed ok to me but again not sure they felt smooth enough
Thanks
BTW first time ive taken cam cover off on any car!
G
More details AP1 2003 103,000 miles UK new to me car. N service history so was interested to check and do valve adjustment.
Couple of the intake valves were less than 0.08 inches s adjusted those.
Couple of the exhaust valves were more than 0.012 inches so adjusted them too.
I cant see any evidence of cracked valves (see pictures) but would like experienced members opinions.
Also cam lobes seemed ok to me but again not sure they felt smooth enough
Thanks
BTW first time ive taken cam cover off on any car!
G
10-22-2017, 05:27 AM
#4
See the Billman posts on how to inspect.
The pics are not clear enough for me. But, my understanding about this is that you are looking for collets (or keepers) that are sunken in the retainers - lower in the neck of the retainer than normal - not actual cracks appearing on the top side of the retainer. My understanding is that sunken keepers are a symptom of cracks in the retainers but the cracks appear generally only on the underside of the retainers and are not visible until the retainer is removed. So, if you see sunken keepers, then you need to investigate further by pulling the retainers out. I'm not seeing sunken keepers in your pics - but the pics don't show a clear view in some cases.
The pics are not clear enough for me. But, my understanding about this is that you are looking for collets (or keepers) that are sunken in the retainers - lower in the neck of the retainer than normal - not actual cracks appearing on the top side of the retainer. My understanding is that sunken keepers are a symptom of cracks in the retainers but the cracks appear generally only on the underside of the retainers and are not visible until the retainer is removed. So, if you see sunken keepers, then you need to investigate further by pulling the retainers out. I'm not seeing sunken keepers in your pics - but the pics don't show a clear view in some cases.
Last edited by rpg51; 10-26-2017 at 01:57 AM.
10-22-2017, 11:43 AM
#5
I think this is intake side?
When I looked initially I thought I could see the side wall of the retainers on all of them! Meaning they are all cracked! But I think it's not the Inner but the groove of the normal outer retainer in seeing? Hopefully you guys agree?
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10-22-2017, 02:46 PM
#8
I think the valves are ok in terms of cracks unless anyone sees any evidence of cracks?
next issue is valve tightness.. I went with the tighter end of specs which was ok but i did tolerate a tight drag on the feeler
Does anyone have recommendation? is it worth me going back in and doing it a bit looser?
next issue is valve tightness.. I went with the tighter end of specs which was ok but i did tolerate a tight drag on the feeler
Does anyone have recommendation? is it worth me going back in and doing it a bit looser?
10-22-2017, 06:15 PM
#9
Tight drag on the tightest feeler is not correct- ie. .008 IN/.010 EX (for non DBW) is spec. If you need to really yank hard on it to come out then that would seem too tight.
I followed Billman at the dragon during an adjustment and he gave me good advice- we'll use the Intake for an example- using the .008 feeler, it should have light drag- you leave the feeler in place and the feeler should lightly be able to move when lightly spun (not the adjustment bolt spinning but the feeler gauge- remember, it needs to be torqued to 14lbft).
So, yes, if it was my engine, i'd go in and be a little looser by my estimation. you may only need to move the adjustment screw one clock number (for e.g.. 6 o'clock to 5 o'clock or less)
darcy
I followed Billman at the dragon during an adjustment and he gave me good advice- we'll use the Intake for an example- using the .008 feeler, it should have light drag- you leave the feeler in place and the feeler should lightly be able to move when lightly spun (not the adjustment bolt spinning but the feeler gauge- remember, it needs to be torqued to 14lbft).
So, yes, if it was my engine, i'd go in and be a little looser by my estimation. you may only need to move the adjustment screw one clock number (for e.g.. 6 o'clock to 5 o'clock or less)
darcy
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ik2s (10-23-2017)
10-23-2017, 12:35 AM
#10
I think you're right.
I never had to yank it out and I did go through all the adjustments again at the end with the 0.08 and I had very light drag on the exhaust side and like I said tight drag on the intake but without having to yank it out so I reckon I'm 0.07 on the intake and 0.08 to 0.09 on the exhaust. I will go back in but do you think it's ok to drive until the weekend?
I never had to yank it out and I did go through all the adjustments again at the end with the 0.08 and I had very light drag on the exhaust side and like I said tight drag on the intake but without having to yank it out so I reckon I'm 0.07 on the intake and 0.08 to 0.09 on the exhaust. I will go back in but do you think it's ok to drive until the weekend?