”Grinding” problems after clutch upgrade
05-22-2018, 10:50 AM
#1
”Grinding” problems after clutch upgrade
So I just upgraded the clutch with a new PP, flywheel and a new disc from Scienceofspeed.
Went to my honda dealer and got myself complete istallation instructions, and then went on to do it myself.
Now to the problem I am having:
when I first started the engine in neutral I heard a not so loud scraping sound like ”shh shh shh”. It sounded like it was a leak from my catalyctic converter as I did changed that to a new one aswell. Then the sound smoothly went away, so I didnt think of that anylonger
Then I sat myself into the seat and gently pressed down the clutch pedal and heard that sound again and the engine just died! It died like something is holding onto the PP or the flywheel. Started the engine again just to try one more time really carefully. Engine dies again. Its just like some material is forcing the engine to stop..
I have not touched the car after this, and Im planning to get rid of the gearbox AGAIN (sigh) and look what it could be. I dis this install so freaking slowly and triple checked everything, and im 99% sure that my disc is facing the right way as my papers said (bolted raised side against the PP)
Sorry for wall of text, but I need help on ideas here. I mean, theres only 4 parts here, and if something was really wrong I wouldnt have gotten the gearbox in place again! The fork should also be in the right place, and that one is also pulling the bearing onto the PP-blades. So it couldnt be scraping into my disc?
Went to my honda dealer and got myself complete istallation instructions, and then went on to do it myself.
Now to the problem I am having:
when I first started the engine in neutral I heard a not so loud scraping sound like ”shh shh shh”. It sounded like it was a leak from my catalyctic converter as I did changed that to a new one aswell. Then the sound smoothly went away, so I didnt think of that anylonger
Then I sat myself into the seat and gently pressed down the clutch pedal and heard that sound again and the engine just died! It died like something is holding onto the PP or the flywheel. Started the engine again just to try one more time really carefully. Engine dies again. Its just like some material is forcing the engine to stop..
I have not touched the car after this, and Im planning to get rid of the gearbox AGAIN (sigh) and look what it could be. I dis this install so freaking slowly and triple checked everything, and im 99% sure that my disc is facing the right way as my papers said (bolted raised side against the PP)
Sorry for wall of text, but I need help on ideas here. I mean, theres only 4 parts here, and if something was really wrong I wouldnt have gotten the gearbox in place again! The fork should also be in the right place, and that one is also pulling the bearing onto the PP-blades. So it couldnt be scraping into my disc?
Last edited by torrbi; 05-22-2018 at 10:58 AM. Reason: grammar
05-22-2018, 11:03 AM
#2
you can try to remove the rod from the clutch slave.. once remove just grind the nipple thats on the ball flat, then just clean it up.. try to polish it by hand. re-grease with Honda Super High Temp and reinstall it.
the other issue could be the throw out bearing,, did you lube the fingers of the fork that meets the throw out bearing?
there should also be a cavity located on the throw out bearing that you would put a good amount of lube there, this also helps long term as well.
the other issue could be the throw out bearing,, did you lube the fingers of the fork that meets the throw out bearing?
there should also be a cavity located on the throw out bearing that you would put a good amount of lube there, this also helps long term as well.
Last edited by X13A; 05-22-2018 at 11:05 AM.
05-22-2018, 11:21 AM
#3
you can try to remove the rod from the clutch slave.. once remove just grind the nipple thats on the ball flat, then just clean it up.. try to polish it by hand. re-grease with Honda Super High Temp and reinstall it.
the other issue could be the throw out bearing,, did you lube the fingers of the fork that meets the throw out bearing?
there should also be a cavity located on the throw out bearing that you would put a good amount of lube there, this also helps long term as well.
the other issue could be the throw out bearing,, did you lube the fingers of the fork that meets the throw out bearing?
there should also be a cavity located on the throw out bearing that you would put a good amount of lube there, this also helps long term as well.
My first thought is that it must be something with the bearing, but I dont se how since it is getting pulled away from the PP.. First thing I will do is to get rid of the piston and the fork and have a look through that home.. I really dont want to do this hassle again, but else...
05-22-2018, 11:28 AM
#4
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So the thing you need to remember is that when its just sitting there in neutral everything is spinning. Input shaft to the trans, clutch, flywheel, TOB. Everything is turning already.
When you depress the clutch pedal the throw out bearing is moving towards the pressure plate to just move the spring to release the disc. It should be exactly the same as before minus the clutch disc free wheeling from the flywheel and pressure plate. Just to help you with your thought process.
Does it stall when you put it in gear or even when left in neutral and cycled the clutch pedal? Did you crack open any hydraulic lines when you did this swap?
Sometimes the aftermarket clutches are further away from the TOB than the oem clutches are; this shouldn't be the case since they are both single mass flywheels, but if your master is very far out of adjustment I could see you possibly not getting full release. Even if you do not get full release it should not stall the engine if you do not put it in gear.
Unfortunately I think you're going to have to unmate the trans again and check for contact with the bellhousing. Alternatively you could get a borescope and inspect the bell housing for contact marks.
When you depress the clutch pedal the throw out bearing is moving towards the pressure plate to just move the spring to release the disc. It should be exactly the same as before minus the clutch disc free wheeling from the flywheel and pressure plate. Just to help you with your thought process.
Does it stall when you put it in gear or even when left in neutral and cycled the clutch pedal? Did you crack open any hydraulic lines when you did this swap?
Sometimes the aftermarket clutches are further away from the TOB than the oem clutches are; this shouldn't be the case since they are both single mass flywheels, but if your master is very far out of adjustment I could see you possibly not getting full release. Even if you do not get full release it should not stall the engine if you do not put it in gear.
Unfortunately I think you're going to have to unmate the trans again and check for contact with the bellhousing. Alternatively you could get a borescope and inspect the bell housing for contact marks.
05-22-2018, 11:40 AM
#5
So I just upgraded the clutch with a new PP, flywheel and a new disc from Scienceofspeed.
Went to my honda dealer and got myself complete istallation instructions, and then went on to do it myself.
Now to the problem I am having:
when I first started the engine in neutral I heard a not so loud scraping sound like ”shh shh shh”. It sounded like it was a leak from my catalyctic converter as I did changed that to a new one aswell. Then the sound smoothly went away, so I didnt think of that anylonger
Then I sat myself into the seat and gently pressed down the clutch pedal and heard that sound again and the engine just died! It died like something is holding onto the PP or the flywheel. Started the engine again just to try one more time really carefully. Engine dies again. Its just like some material is forcing the engine to stop..
I have not touched the car after this, and Im planning to get rid of the gearbox AGAIN (sigh) and look what it could be. I dis this install so freaking slowly and triple checked everything, and im 99% sure that my disc is facing the right way as my papers said (bolted raised side against the PP)
Sorry for wall of text, but I need help on ideas here. I mean, theres only 4 parts here, and if something was really wrong I wouldnt have gotten the gearbox in place again! The fork should also be in the right place, and that one is also pulling the bearing onto the PP-blades. So it couldnt be scraping into my disc?
Went to my honda dealer and got myself complete istallation instructions, and then went on to do it myself.
Now to the problem I am having:
when I first started the engine in neutral I heard a not so loud scraping sound like ”shh shh shh”. It sounded like it was a leak from my catalyctic converter as I did changed that to a new one aswell. Then the sound smoothly went away, so I didnt think of that anylonger
Then I sat myself into the seat and gently pressed down the clutch pedal and heard that sound again and the engine just died! It died like something is holding onto the PP or the flywheel. Started the engine again just to try one more time really carefully. Engine dies again. Its just like some material is forcing the engine to stop..
I have not touched the car after this, and Im planning to get rid of the gearbox AGAIN (sigh) and look what it could be. I dis this install so freaking slowly and triple checked everything, and im 99% sure that my disc is facing the right way as my papers said (bolted raised side against the PP)
Sorry for wall of text, but I need help on ideas here. I mean, theres only 4 parts here, and if something was really wrong I wouldnt have gotten the gearbox in place again! The fork should also be in the right place, and that one is also pulling the bearing onto the PP-blades. So it couldnt be scraping into my disc?
Did you torque the pressure plate to 19ft lbs?
Did you adjust the clutch rod that goes into the clutch master cylinder (the one that attached to the pedal)?
Answer my questions i just went though 5 times of installing and removing the trans due to stupid shit and can maybe help pinpoint your problem.
05-22-2018, 12:24 PM
#6
So the thing you need to remember is that when its just sitting there in neutral everything is spinning. Input shaft to the trans, clutch, flywheel, TOB. Everything is turning already.
When you depress the clutch pedal the throw out bearing is moving towards the pressure plate to just move the spring to release the disc. It should be exactly the same as before minus the clutch disc free wheeling from the flywheel and pressure plate. Just to help you with your thought process.
Does it stall when you put it in gear or even when left in neutral and cycled the clutch pedal? Did you crack open any hydraulic lines when you did this swap?
Sometimes the aftermarket clutches are further away from the TOB than the oem clutches are; this shouldn't be the case since they are both single mass flywheels, but if your master is very far out of adjustment I could see you possibly not getting full release. Even if you do not get full release it should not stall the engine if you do not put it in gear.
Unfortunately I think you're going to have to unmate the trans again and check for contact with the bellhousing. Alternatively you could get a borescope and inspect the bell housing for contact marks.
When you depress the clutch pedal the throw out bearing is moving towards the pressure plate to just move the spring to release the disc. It should be exactly the same as before minus the clutch disc free wheeling from the flywheel and pressure plate. Just to help you with your thought process.
Does it stall when you put it in gear or even when left in neutral and cycled the clutch pedal? Did you crack open any hydraulic lines when you did this swap?
Sometimes the aftermarket clutches are further away from the TOB than the oem clutches are; this shouldn't be the case since they are both single mass flywheels, but if your master is very far out of adjustment I could see you possibly not getting full release. Even if you do not get full release it should not stall the engine if you do not put it in gear.
Unfortunately I think you're going to have to unmate the trans again and check for contact with the bellhousing. Alternatively you could get a borescope and inspect the bell housing for contact marks.
I cant even put in any gear since the engine dies before that. It just get forced to death by something else inside the housing.
The hydraulic line was striped far away from the gearbox, so that one was secured.
A borescope is a really good idea! I will try that this weekend!
Which SOS clutch did you get?
Did you torque the pressure plate to 19ft lbs?
Did you adjust the clutch rod that goes into the clutch master cylinder (the one that attached to the pedal)?
Answer my questions i just went though 5 times of installing and removing the trans due to stupid shit and can maybe help pinpoint your problem.
Did you torque the pressure plate to 19ft lbs?
Did you adjust the clutch rod that goes into the clutch master cylinder (the one that attached to the pedal)?
Answer my questions i just went though 5 times of installing and removing the trans due to stupid shit and can maybe help pinpoint your problem.
I did adjust the nut behind the pedal. Unsrewed it and turned it by hand until i felt resistance, then turned it 180 degrees more.
Maybe sounds crazy, but I wonder if its possible that the release bearing could get stuck onto the disc, and when I engage the clutch it drags the disc onto the pressure plate? But sounds very unlikely since pressning on the pedal is a pretty strong force on the fork that is pulling it...
the kit from SOS is their Sport 325, plus the lightened 10lbs flywheel
05-22-2018, 01:00 PM
#7
I would turn the engine by hand and maybe have someone try pressing the clutch, gives a bit more control and maybe not damage anything further.
Also have you checked your crankshaft end play?
If you are unsure how check this thread https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...ilure-1171212/
Also have you checked your crankshaft end play?
If you are unsure how check this thread https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...ilure-1171212/
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HawkeyeGeoff (05-23-2018)
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05-22-2018, 01:17 PM
#8
I would turn the engine by hand and maybe have someone try pressing the clutch, gives a bit more control and maybe not damage anything further.
Also have you checked your crankshaft end play?
If you are unsure how check this thread https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...ilure-1171212/
Also have you checked your crankshaft end play?
If you are unsure how check this thread https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...ilure-1171212/
Not looking forward to this weekend to unscrew the gearbox again. I dont want to be close to my knock sensor again since the old one broke when I just touched it with my finger. Damn expensive plastic piece of shit
