Tensioner pulley bearing replacements
11-15-2018, 11:52 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Tensioner pulley bearing replacements
Has anyone anyone replaced just the bearings themselves and have feedback on how you made out? I've got a few other threads going, buttoning up the details before supercharging, and I'd like to take care of the preventative maintenance before I install the supercharger, as these components are harder to get to once that's installed. My car only has 53k on it, but considering the cost of new bearings I wouldn't mind replacing them just for peace of mind.
I did a bunch of reading in this thread and various people chimed in that the idler pulley can use a standard bearing, but the tensioner needs a more robust bearing. Both are 6203 size, but the tensioner seems to use an OEM-specific designation as 6203LHX3.
A good alternative that would fit the load, RPM, etc requirements was recommended to be the SKF 6203 2RSJEM. I've heard that SKF isn't quite as good quality as they used to be from multiple sources, so I turned to NTN which is the OEM original supplier for the bearings in our pulleys.
I found an NTN bearing similar to the SKF bearing with the part number NTN EC-6203LLBC3, RPM rating is 1k lower @ 18k max RPM, but has a higher heat rating of 120* C (good for under hood temps?)
Maybe I'm looking into this more than I need to, but I'd prefer to do this job once and not have to worry about it for a longggg time. Perhaps @bgoetz or @Slowcrash_101 can chime in. I'm sure either choice is fine. I don't think I need to jump for the crazier ceramic bearings. VXB also offers a 2RSJ EM equivalent by Nachi, but for whatever reason that one only has a 12k RPM limit, so I don't think it can be considered in the same class, it's about half the price too.
Just wanna know if anyone has pressed out old and pressed in new bearings a while ago and has been fine for tens of thousands of miles now. If there'd be less room for error just buying the OEM pulleys I guess I could just do that too, but I'd rather not blow money unnecessarily if this is a relatively simple task.
I did a bunch of reading in this thread and various people chimed in that the idler pulley can use a standard bearing, but the tensioner needs a more robust bearing. Both are 6203 size, but the tensioner seems to use an OEM-specific designation as 6203LHX3.
A good alternative that would fit the load, RPM, etc requirements was recommended to be the SKF 6203 2RSJEM. I've heard that SKF isn't quite as good quality as they used to be from multiple sources, so I turned to NTN which is the OEM original supplier for the bearings in our pulleys.
I found an NTN bearing similar to the SKF bearing with the part number NTN EC-6203LLBC3, RPM rating is 1k lower @ 18k max RPM, but has a higher heat rating of 120* C (good for under hood temps?)
Maybe I'm looking into this more than I need to, but I'd prefer to do this job once and not have to worry about it for a longggg time. Perhaps @bgoetz or @Slowcrash_101 can chime in. I'm sure either choice is fine. I don't think I need to jump for the crazier ceramic bearings. VXB also offers a 2RSJ EM equivalent by Nachi, but for whatever reason that one only has a 12k RPM limit, so I don't think it can be considered in the same class, it's about half the price too.
Just wanna know if anyone has pressed out old and pressed in new bearings a while ago and has been fine for tens of thousands of miles now. If there'd be less room for error just buying the OEM pulleys I guess I could just do that too, but I'd rather not blow money unnecessarily if this is a relatively simple task.
11-16-2018, 01:52 AM
#2
Jason of DIYGuys got you covered 
SpitfireS did the calculations, so just make sure your bearings are rated for at least 16k RPM.
SpitfireS did the calculations, so just make sure your bearings are rated for at least 16k RPM.
11-16-2018, 03:42 AM
#3
Thread Starter
Jason of DIYGuys got you covered
https://youtu.be/P1ooX9ZX0Ik
SpitfireS did the calculations, so just make sure your bearings are rated for at least 16k RPM.
https://youtu.be/P1ooX9ZX0Ik
SpitfireS did the calculations, so just make sure your bearings are rated for at least 16k RPM.
11-16-2018, 10:33 AM
#4
FWIW my SKF bearings are still working fine after 40k miles.
The following users liked this post:
Kyle (11-20-2018)
11-18-2018, 08:36 AM
#5
Me too. Around that many miles, maybe more, on a set of skf bearings (I did both tensioner and idler).
I say you're over thinking it. No need to worry about it much. The consequences if replacement bearings only last a couple of years, the cost is so low, and effort to replace so low, that its not worth the time and effort and try and find the ultimate set.
I say you're over thinking it. No need to worry about it much. The consequences if replacement bearings only last a couple of years, the cost is so low, and effort to replace so low, that its not worth the time and effort and try and find the ultimate set.
11-20-2018, 12:08 AM
#6
Thread Starter
Me too. Around that many miles, maybe more, on a set of skf bearings (I did both tensioner and idler).
I say you're over thinking it. No need to worry about it much. The consequences if replacement bearings only last a couple of years, the cost is so low, and effort to replace so low, that its not worth the time and effort and try and find the ultimate set.
I say you're over thinking it. No need to worry about it much. The consequences if replacement bearings only last a couple of years, the cost is so low, and effort to replace so low, that its not worth the time and effort and try and find the ultimate set.
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