auric

Today at the track I grabbed 1st instead of 3rd in my AP2 an now there's a ticking sound that's getting louder and gets louder with increased engine speed.
At this point I am prepared for the worst. I intend to:
- pull valve cover and check lashes
- pull plugs and inspect
- compression test the cylinders
- buy a cheap amazon bore scope and take a loook at the walls
- drain oil and look for glitter
- pull oil pan an inspect bearings and crank (unsure how to do this but ill figure it out--i have a service manual)
- I am doing research as we speak and trying to grasp what my options are.

Questions
- I know there's no new engines one can buy, and I am hesitant to drop money on an engine that's been pulled that I know nothing of...
- Assuming stock car (2006 AP2 in good shape), how much is the car worth as is (with bad engine)? Or should I part-out?
- Car is still drivable, no check engine lights and vtec still engages
- At what point is it better to get a new engine?


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SoFlaKidd

why don't you find out whats wrong with it first before considering a part out

fatjoe10

post a video so we can hear the noise. Can you feel any vibration on the clutch pedal?

auric

I am going to investigate, but wanted to start to gather as much information as possible before proceeding.

outeiroj

last i checked ap2 blocks were still available from honda for 3k. Heads can easily be rebuilt. that being said when I had my bearing issue i went the inline-pro route and have zero regrets. good luck with your inspection

clubhopper

Also add leakdown to that list.

windhund116

After overrev, engine died and won't restart?

auric

Follow-up:

- Pulled valve cover.
- Plugs look clean and consistent (should I reinstall with antisieze?)
- Valve Lash is tight on a 2 exhaust and 1 intake (but still within spec--but snuggish, more than i remember setting it)
- Oddly, found what appear to be a bit of grayish rubbery substance stuck to the timing chain on the inner aspect (like the stuff on the outside of the oil pain), Ive never pulled the oil pan and the previous owner hasn't either.
- Cam surfaces look good, cant see any scoring.
- Next up checking compression, engine still warmish ~ 100F, but I figure the most important thing is that the readings be close to each other.
- I'll try to get a sound clip once I reassemble.

- Assuming everything else looks normal up top, I'll then drain the oil, pull pan, and inspect
- any tips on cutting an oil filter

- To add, the car still drives, no check engine lights, vtec still engages (I know--stupid to do that because I may have exacerbated damage)

auric

- Where can I get these blocks from?
- All I was able to find was a Spoon Block for ~ 12K and a few F20C used blocks.

clubhopper

Dealer sells bare blocks still. I picked up mine for $1850 new. A fully assembled short block is disc long time ago.

recommend a leakdown as well. Compression tells part of the story...I barely ever do one as the leakdown is far superior. It’ll tell you where it’s leaking if any.

also I recently pulled the valve cover of a customer car and saw gray gasket maker on the timing chain like yours as well. Nobody has ever opened the head or chain case ever.