Getting ready to replace the clutch on my stock 05 Ap2. Should I put an Ap1 flywheel in? What else do I need if so, just the Ap1 slave cylinder? Does the lighter flywheel make it harder to stay in v-tech when redline shifting because of the lower redline on the Ap2?

 

It depends. It is all a matter of preference, assuming you are not trying to meet any classing/racing requirements. A lighter flywheel decreases momentum of the rotating mass of the drivetrain. It allows the car to rev quicker but has some downsides. You don't need an AP1 slave cylinder but may prefer it. That would remove the Clutch Delay Valve (CDV) which you can read about elsewhere on the forum. It is not needed to use an AP1 flywheel but contributes to the more direct feeling that most people are chasing by using the lighter flywheel. Neither will have any real affect on staying in Vtec.

I've had an AP1 and AP2. I liked the feel of the AP1 much more but the lighter flywheel and lower torque did make it tougher to take off from the line. I would not describe it as difficult but it is noticeably different compared to the AP2. In between gears, up and downshifting felt much better than the AP2. I could shift much quicker in the AP1 and I did not feel that taking off was difficult in any way. I've gotten used to it by now but I have definitely slowed down my shifting a bit in the AP2. I was smoother in the AP1 because I never had to wait on the car to shift. It was precise and would move as quickly as I reasonably could.

If not for autocross classing, I'd much prefer an AP1 flywheel and slave cylinder. I suggest driving an AP1 if you can. Honda made the changes to make the car more "civilized" and normal. It's easier to drive and arguments are made about the CDV being easier on the diff and drivetrain.

 

Idk why a flywheel would make it harder to stay in VTEC.

Yes, almost anyone would recommend using the AP1 flywheel.

Removing the CDV is not too important unless you're driving the car in an environment where you'll be doing succesive fast shifts and requiring instant clutch engagement.

If you track a car with a CDV, you will have MASSIVE clutch overheating and slippage toward the end of a long session, for example.

If you drag race a car with a CDV, your power shifts will not be as crisp.

If you don't do either one of those...you won't even notice whether the CDV is there or not.

 

Yes, but only in first gear. All other gears benefit.

 

I'd be curious to hear the explanation of this one.

 

Inertia on a lighter FW<rpm> will drop more rapid compared

 

I think he means that its harder to keep it in VTEC when you launch it.

This is a MASSIVE launch we're talking about though....

Otherwise, engine speed is dictated by gear and wheel speed. Not the flywheel.

 

Yea, makes sense I guess. If it had been a random person on the board, I would have just said it's blatantly wrong due to your last statement. The AP2 is easier to get a good result when launching for multiple reasons (gearing and torque mainly). The AP1's clutch feel and revving on the line were so much nicer though and felt so great when done right. Definitely easier to get a really bad result in the AP1 though.

 

The reason I asked about v-tech is that I have read that the lower redline on the Ap2 gives you less of an rpm range between v-tech engagement and redline. The theory was the heavier flywheel made up for the smaller v-tech range in rpms because the revs went down slower and so you still had time to shift while always in v-tech. Can you stay in v-tech through all the shifts 2-6th on the lighter flywheel without the higher redline?

 

its a no brainer. I prefer the zing of the lighter flywheel. I drove a friend's AP2 with AP1 FW and it reminded me of my AP1 days. IF the clutch wasn't just replaced before I bought my AP2 two yrs ago, I'd do it now. Really, if you can drive a manual, you'll be fine and within a week you'll be a pro.

darcy