Hi everyone, first post but a long time reader. Been having a issue with my timing ever since i took off my camshaft gear and rotated my intake shaft to realign it i have all my marks pointing at each other and my pully is pointing to TDC, but im having hard time even getting the car to start, and when it does start sounds like a motorcycle, misfires, and now is throwing a code for [2647 "A" Rocker Arm Actuator system stuck. I don't know, im losing my mind ill drop some pictures been trying to figure this out for 2 weeks straight now and about to throw in the towel. Any advice would be appreciated attempted re alignment of timing like 12 times with no success.

cams and timing gear aligned

pully on the mark

 

was it running fine before you moved the cam gear?

 

it wasn’t perfect it would bog a lil/ 02 sensor light was throwing, but for the most part it was running.

had to remove cam gear and holders

[img alt="Since when I was trying to get the cake shaft holder back on top

of cams the middle bolt didn’t wanna go in. So rotated the intake

Cam thingy so screw could fit back in "]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2ki.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_4746_293141180d34c578c8ecd46b7d150786a53373c5. jpeg[/img]

Since when I was trying to get the cake shaft holder

back on top of cams the middle bolt didn’t wanna go in.

So rotated the intake Cam thingy so screw could fit back in

 

Why did you need to remove the cam gears if the car was only throwing O2 sensor CELs?

But, if you are talking about the middle bolt (idler gear) of the camshaft gear assembly (the one with the hex head) — was taken out and had to be forced back in to tighten, I think you may have an issue. The washers behind that idler gear may have fallen into the oil pan or are stuck on the timing chain, somewhere. Without those, the idler gear may not be perfectly aligned.

 

Time for some major engine $urgery.

I'm guessing the above photo is from another thread/car. Removing THAT bolt ("this bolt") is a classic example of FAFO. (Same with machining the top of the block but I'm still guessing the comments ain't about this car.)

Hopefully there's a S2000 engine shop within towing distance. Tell us where you are and we'll try to help find a shop. We're pulling for you.

-- Chuck

 

IM in Tacoma Wa, but that’s not the bolt I’m talking about I’ll show a picture below

i had to take my cam holders off cause one of my rocker arm lock down screws was striped when I was doing valve adjustment.

This rotated when I was working on it, which lead me to take the the rocker assembly out

This the bolt I was talking about

 

Something else to keep in mind, timing alignment is dependent on crank pulley ring still being in the right place in relation to its core.

Core, outer ring, rubber in between. Its possible for it to shift on rubber,so timing mark no longer in correct place.

This doesn't align with your symptoms (which do sound like something wasn't reassembled properly), but it could still be a factor later when whatever that is gets resolved.

 

How do I do said realignment of those cause the way it sounding atm and how it doesn’t wanna start but does. Have to defiantly be a timing issue. Rough idle and all

 

I'm not sure what the problem is, but if I were you, I would not keep trying to start the engine until you get this sorted out.

There is potential to do valve damage if the timing is off. If there is valve damage already, for whatever reason, that could be why the car won't start or runs rough.

It might be good to do a leak-down test, just to be sure.

Good luck with the fix!

EDIT: I noticed that you adjusted the valve clearance (a screw stripped). Are you sure that the lash settings are correct?

 

ty for the advice will keep you posted after leak down with updates