OK what are the steps to changing out the rear brake pads? How hard is it to turn the piston on the rear brakes?

frustrated...

 

JUST TAKE A BIG SCREWDRIVER OR A PAIR OF NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS AND TURN THE PUCK AND IT WILL GO IN EASILY.

 

Loosen lugs
Raise rear end onto jack stands
Remove wheels
Loosen lower caliper bolt, raise caliper off rotor and use an old hanger to hang it up and out of the way
Remove existing pads (they are just sitting against the rotor)
Put on new pads with existing shims, with plenty of lube or disc quiet between shim and pad. Do NOT get any lube or anything else on the rotor.
Make sure brake fluid resevoir has some room
Use tool of your choice to screw rear piston in -- shelf bracket, screwdriver, rear caliper tool ($4 at AutoZone, but not particularly worth while, IMHO) or anything that will fit; it isn't easy to turn, but it isn't too hard, either. Do it 1/4 or 1/2 turn at a time.
When you can put the caliper back down over the brake pads without pushing them tight against the rotor, stop turning the piston.
Put caliper back on, tighten caliper bolt (do a search...I think it is 24ft-lbs of torque)
Repeat with other side

Keep in mind that the brakes will not be very effective at first, so take it easy trying to get out of the driveway.

Bed the pads according to manufacturer's instructions. Usually 4-5 good stops from 50-0 will work, sometimes it takes a bit more or less. If you start getting large amounts of squeal, bed them again (my brakes NEVER squeel after a track day).

HTH,
Tanq

 

OK thanks guys... it appears that I chose to start with the rear passenger side and that side is just a FREAKIN B!TCH to turn!!!!

I have successfully replaced my rear pads and will start on the fron in the morning. I would have done them tonight but it is late and my first attempt at breaking the bolt lose on the front failed so I threw in the towel

Thanks guys

 

Keep in mind that there is a nut that has to be held while you break the caliper bolts loose. If you don't hold it, it will turn with the caliper bolt.

You have done the hard part....fronts take a few minutes a piece. It takes me as long to torque the bolts back down as it does to change the pads (it is tough to get room to use my torque wrench under there).

Tanq

 

OK everything went smoothly... The only question I have now is how long before my brakes get back to full pedal. I have driven around for about 30 minutes and some of it has returned. What is the cause of mushy brakes?

Thanks again...

 

Pump them up until the pedal is hard. Make sure the fluid container is full. Did you bed the pads in?

 

Did you bleed your brake fluid? It sounds like you have air in your lines, so try re-bleeding. If you are going to do this again, spring for the SpeedBleeders, SoloBleeders or whichever brand you choose.

Your brakes should tighten up after hitting the brakes 2 or 3 times; the mushy pedal isn't normal.
Tanq

 

And I am spent!!!

OK I wound up rebleeding my brakes this time and EXPLAINING IN DETAIL what I need for my wife to do! I think I will get the speedbleeders for the sake of my marriage.

Thanks for all the help guys!!!!!

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by S2K_LA
[B]OK I wound up rebleeding my brakes this time and EXPLAINING IN DETAIL what I need for my wife to do!