KN intake 101?
So instead of bumping those up,
I want: Experiences, Thoughts, Ideas and whatnot.
Please dont give me: 'get a PWJDM intake' cuz I would if I had that much money to spend
KN Typhoon intake. retailing for roughly 200 bucks +/- a few. Looks to be a COLD air intake, gains are supposed to not be as high as FIPK? thoughts? (this is the 69 series intake)
KN FIPK intake, Retailing for 300 bucks +/- a few. Looks to be non-cold air, but short-ram effect, supposed to make more HP up top, but have been reading that it suffers (a little) heat soak. Any truth in these statements?
To offset the 100 dollar difference, as well as dangers of Hydrolock, If I were to go with the KN typhoon, Id invest in a AEM bypass valve + heatshield for the piping (looks to be metal vs. KN plastic?)
So both turn out ROUGHLY the same price, both are from same maker so Im assuming quality is the same. Anyone have experiences with ANY of these parts please chime in:
AEM bypass valve
Heatshield for intake piping
KN FIPK
69 series typhoon KN
Thanks
-edit-
also, if you have the typhoon piping diameter, that would be appreciated too
I want: Experiences, Thoughts, Ideas and whatnot.
Please dont give me: 'get a PWJDM intake' cuz I would if I had that much money to spend
KN Typhoon intake. retailing for roughly 200 bucks +/- a few. Looks to be a COLD air intake, gains are supposed to not be as high as FIPK? thoughts? (this is the 69 series intake)
KN FIPK intake, Retailing for 300 bucks +/- a few. Looks to be non-cold air, but short-ram effect, supposed to make more HP up top, but have been reading that it suffers (a little) heat soak. Any truth in these statements?
To offset the 100 dollar difference, as well as dangers of Hydrolock, If I were to go with the KN typhoon, Id invest in a AEM bypass valve + heatshield for the piping (looks to be metal vs. KN plastic?)
So both turn out ROUGHLY the same price, both are from same maker so Im assuming quality is the same. Anyone have experiences with ANY of these parts please chime in:
AEM bypass valve
Heatshield for intake piping
KN FIPK
69 series typhoon KN
Thanks

-edit-
also, if you have the typhoon piping diameter, that would be appreciated too
i have the k&n fipk so thats all i can comment on and i would just like to say it make have added a little power but oh the sound!!! And I haven't noticed any heatsoak before or after I wrapped it with heat tape. If you do decide to go with one of these look at a AUT cooling plate it compliments it well and in theory works better.
FIPK intake-
its worth the money just for the sound. feels like it added some power too, mostly when vtec first kicks in so about 6-7k on an ap2. I have yet to experience heat soak or anything with it on the track or street. I'm sure its possible but less then the stock intake.
Pros of this versus cold air:
-Easier to install
-Easier to clean/replace filter
-No risk of hydolock
its worth the money just for the sound. feels like it added some power too, mostly when vtec first kicks in so about 6-7k on an ap2. I have yet to experience heat soak or anything with it on the track or street. I'm sure its possible but less then the stock intake.
Pros of this versus cold air:
-Easier to install
-Easier to clean/replace filter
-No risk of hydolock
^yeah, Ive heard the FIPK and thats pretty much what Im thinking of buying it for. The typhoon just happened to pop up onto my radar cuz its made by KN, and happens to be 100$ cheaper...which wil be moot when I install the bypass valve to prevent hydrolock.
Thanks for the info so far! keep em coming
Thanks for the info so far! keep em coming

since when password jdm knock off sh-t is baller part?
bypass valve lose hp too, they don't have a smooth surface inside, i had one on my aem before.
aluminium pipe also retain heat much more than rotor/blow molded PP plastic, does it affect enough? who knows.
you might want to look at spoon snorkel too, no risk or hydrolock, oem fitment and it works great, i did a datalog on them long long long time ago, data, number and all
bypass valve lose hp too, they don't have a smooth surface inside, i had one on my aem before.
aluminium pipe also retain heat much more than rotor/blow molded PP plastic, does it affect enough? who knows.
you might want to look at spoon snorkel too, no risk or hydrolock, oem fitment and it works great, i did a datalog on them long long long time ago, data, number and all
K&N FIPK:
I just recently got one about a week ago and I am happy. I am running a full exhaust with testpipe and I can hear the K&N over the exhaust! Throttle response up top is prevalent. I got a killer deal on it also so I couldn't pass it up.
I just recently got one about a week ago and I am happy. I am running a full exhaust with testpipe and I can hear the K&N over the exhaust! Throttle response up top is prevalent. I got a killer deal on it also so I couldn't pass it up.
well, i had the k&n FIPK and boy i love the sound and the rolling power was great! BUT, when i did some strips, boy did that suck. my car would bog down off the starting line. i mean i would rev to 8k and let the clutch go and not have wheel spin. oh and i turned off my VSA, but no power, still i posted 11.5 in a 1000 ft at 92 mph. it does have good rolling power, but i drive alot of city and i hate the bogging! get the FIPK but be warn on the bogging.
FWIW, i have a snorkel, with a K&N drop in, IMHO, no bogging what so ever. but no sound.
FWIW, i have a snorkel, with a K&N drop in, IMHO, no bogging what so ever. but no sound.
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Gains are pretty negligible -- consider the other factors. If you're going to add the bypass valve I'd recommend just getting the FIPK for reasons mentioned above.
Though there are a lot of us in Houston, including myself, that run with the Fujita F5. Unlike what the SoCal people consider to be "rain" we get a lot of real rain. Hydrolock's not a big issue if you plug the fender hole and/or use an umbrella. And drive with common sense in the rain.
Though there are a lot of us in Houston, including myself, that run with the Fujita F5. Unlike what the SoCal people consider to be "rain" we get a lot of real rain. Hydrolock's not a big issue if you plug the fender hole and/or use an umbrella. And drive with common sense in the rain.
I have had the FIPK on my AP2 for nearly two years now. It has a number of things to appreciate.
1. Relatively low cost. I bought mine used for $180 and it was pristine. you can get them on Ebay for about $225, I believe.
2. Easy to install. Took me about 1.5-2 hours with basic tools. With good tools, it should go even faster.
3. Easily replaced and cleaned filter. It's available at the top of the engine bay and is a snap to get in and out. "True" CAIs have the filter down under the car so it's harder to reach PLUS it gets dirtier faster, since it's down where the water, mud, and dust are.
4. Sound. This intake sounds amazing! Loud when you get on it but quiet the rest of the time.
5. Throttle response. I noticed a slight uptick in throttle response after installing this. The car revs a little more freely.
6. Power. This intake supposedly adds a few hp. I can't confirm it because I can't feel it. I do know the car SOUNDS faster, which is almost as good.
7. Virtually no heatsoak. I live in East Texas and it gets pretty warm and I barely get any heatsoak. EVERY intake suffers from some heatsoak in 100*F temperatures in traffic (it's basic thermodynamics) but this one really isn't bad.
8. No cutting required. This intake bolts right in - no need to cut fender liners.
9. No possibility of hydrolock. The intake sits high in the bay, over in a corner, so there is no way it can hydrolock. A "true" CAI is down low so it is very possible to hydrolock. I'd prefer to take the possibility of hydrolock completely out of the equation, rather than potentially hit a big puddle (that I didn't realize was quite so big) and ruin my motor.
The only other intake I'd recommend is the Comptech. I actually had one but sold it for the K&N. The K&N is louder and sounds better but definitely doesn't look as nice.
1. Relatively low cost. I bought mine used for $180 and it was pristine. you can get them on Ebay for about $225, I believe.
2. Easy to install. Took me about 1.5-2 hours with basic tools. With good tools, it should go even faster.
3. Easily replaced and cleaned filter. It's available at the top of the engine bay and is a snap to get in and out. "True" CAIs have the filter down under the car so it's harder to reach PLUS it gets dirtier faster, since it's down where the water, mud, and dust are.
4. Sound. This intake sounds amazing! Loud when you get on it but quiet the rest of the time.
5. Throttle response. I noticed a slight uptick in throttle response after installing this. The car revs a little more freely.
6. Power. This intake supposedly adds a few hp. I can't confirm it because I can't feel it. I do know the car SOUNDS faster, which is almost as good.

7. Virtually no heatsoak. I live in East Texas and it gets pretty warm and I barely get any heatsoak. EVERY intake suffers from some heatsoak in 100*F temperatures in traffic (it's basic thermodynamics) but this one really isn't bad.
8. No cutting required. This intake bolts right in - no need to cut fender liners.
9. No possibility of hydrolock. The intake sits high in the bay, over in a corner, so there is no way it can hydrolock. A "true" CAI is down low so it is very possible to hydrolock. I'd prefer to take the possibility of hydrolock completely out of the equation, rather than potentially hit a big puddle (that I didn't realize was quite so big) and ruin my motor.
The only other intake I'd recommend is the Comptech. I actually had one but sold it for the K&N. The K&N is louder and sounds better but definitely doesn't look as nice.






