So the ITB for my car is all installed by a friend. It's not tuned yet because it's been having big issues overheating.

A few of us first thought it has to be air pockets somewhere. So we lifted the front end up, let it run and keep topping off the coolant as it bubbles. Instead of it bubbling, it gushes out and sprays everywhere as temperature got higher and the fan kicked in. And another few minutes go by, the cars overheating. As the car was running, we tried bleeding it from a bleeder bolt, no air just coolant coming out. Did this a few times, no go. Towed it to a shop.

Take it into a shop the next day, tried vacuuming the air pockets out. First drained the rad, then started vacuuming until pressure was at -25 to -30. Filled up the rad with coolant, started running the car while the front end is jacked up again. Same scenario, gushes out (not as much as the day before) sprayed everywhere from the fan. Bleeder bolt was coolant again, no air. Car overheated and we shutted it off. Released the bleeder bolt again, all you hear now is hissing from boiling coolant. That's a sign that there has to be some air in there in order for it to hiss without liquid. Once the hissing stopped, coolant flowed out, we bolted the bleeder back on.

We later looked at diagrams of how the F20 lines look like stock, and realized because the fast idle is now removed, a coolant line has been sealed off. So we assume, because this line is sealed off, the coolant isn't flowing properly throughout the block. So we ran a line from where it's blocked off to the coolant line located near the firewall, attached it to an existant nipple, topped off the coolant again, and started the car. No results, still overheating.

Something is preventing the coolant to flow properly still. We're going to check the install again, and also check to see if maybe the thermostat is broke which means it's been shut off this whole time. They don't think it's the thermostat because the car was running perfect before the ITB's were installed.

After all that reading, my question is, what do you think could be wrong? Also, does anyone have a instruction manual for Toda ITBs? I can't find it on their website, it didn't come with one when I purchased it. I will be calling the vendor to see if they have one at all and calling Toda USA to see if they can suuply me with one.

Thanks for any input.

 

It's not the small coolant line.

 

Turn your heater on in your car... you likely have air pockets under the dash that are causing it, and that'll allow the coolant to cycle through the heater core. Also, you can remove the rubber nipple from the crossover line on the firewall to aid the bleeding process.

 

We turned the heater on, it wasn't getting hot. As for the nipple on the cross over line, when we removed that to bleed the coolant all it did was gush coolant out. Being the highest point I would assume the air was suppose to come out of there but we didn't get air but coolant instead.

 

Something else is wrong. I hear about air bubbles a lot, but I don't think the system is that sensitive. I have completely drained my system and 4-5 times (and I mean completely!) and just filled it up and was off without any problems. I didn't even really do the whole process the last couple of times I did it. Basically just undid the master bleed screw, filled it up, tightened down the bleed screw, ran it for awhile, let it cool down, filled it up again, ran it for a day or two, filled it up and was good. So in my view, if it's giving you so much problem, air bubbles alone are probably not the cause.

 

If your heater isn't getting hot I'd bet on the thermostat.

 

Update on the situation.

Ordered and installed a new Spoon thermostat. What a pain it was to get the bottom bolt off the t-stat cover but it was achieved by my friend. Put the new one in, ran it, let it warm up. Two geyser like sprays of coolant shot out from the rad once the car was at running temperature indicating large air pockets stuck somewhere in the system. Put the rad cap on, overheated.

Friend calls another friend to come look, they started running it with the cap off. Once the car was at running temp again, 3-4 sprays came out of the rad again indicating MORE air pockets stuck in the system. By now the return rad hose (bottom rad hose) is finally getting warmer and warmer showing signs that the coolant is starting to flowing properly. Unfortunately, we ran out of coolant so we're going to keep bleeding the coolant today and hope for the best.

 

There have been a number of posts on bad thermostats. If it persists, I would test using a factory one and then leave it in.

 

Quick question guys....it has nothing to do with this thread, but it does have something to do with itb's.....my questions is what kind of TPS sensor do I use.....Stock S2K TPS, or is there another one...btw my itb's are 52mm TWM....let me know guys I really need your expertise....thx

 

Either start a new thread, or post in a relevant one. It's rude to derail another persons thread.