Hi,

I've recently bought a bunch of parts for my S2000, excited that it's gonna be built mainly street but will be attending track meets and autox meets.

I want to have some of you guys give some pointers for my set-up plan. My rear shocks are blown atm and one wheel was bent so nothing's installed yet.
I'm pretty new to all this, so be nice!

My plan for the car setup to be VERY neutral with some, but minimal oversteering tendency.
I find the stock to not dampen fast enough to my liking, and has a little bit of roll. Also, when it decides to oversteer, it's a little rapid on the rear breaking out.
(I currently have an 00 with stock sways and 07 AP2 struts with lowered Eibach springs)

Here's my plan for the setup: (bought most of the parts, but can revalve the Ohlins and haven't bought the front sway yet)
Enkei RPF1 17x9 +45 - 245/40/17 all round - Continental DW (daily) / Star Specs (track): slight roll, not moving bumper tab (i'm actually not sure whether i'll rub yet)
Ohlin Flag-S: revalved to fit 550lb front / 400lb rear - 1.0" drop. (not looking for slammed look, need it to be functional, it'd be stupid to buy Ohlins for that otherwise)
Megan Bumpsteer Kit
Miata MC Rear Sway Bar
Eibach or Whiteline 30mm adjustable sway bar. (I'm trying to find out which one is stiffer)

Planned Alignment Specs:
6.5 degrees caster
FRONTS:
-1.7 camber, 0 toe.
REARS:
-2.5 camber, 1/4 toe.

Race Logic Traction Control (for mostly rain/snow driving until I'm super comfortable, I'm in vancouver, it's always wet and cold.)

You guys think, with this setup, I can achieve that type of feel I'm looking for? I really hoping for some members who have had/ or is using a similar setup to pitch in with their experience.
Obviously, I can't really say whether it'll be like so until I try it, but I think it'll be a good estimate, so I can fine tune afterwards and right off the get go it'll be CLOSE to where I like it.

 

I would just do OEM rear dampers to replace your blown dampers and do club racer front springs/struts. Then, do max front camber with around 2 degrees rear, zero toe all around. The miata bar should be good. I think the bumpsteer kit is unnecessary.

My car handles phenomenally on this very setup, though I use an AP2 rear sway. I think simplicity paid off.

...

The best upgrade so far has been a big brake kit... I would seriously consider the wheel purchase in regards to a future big brake purchase... I made the same mistake when I bought RPF1s in that size and it bit me for a couple years...

 

I think you're on to a good set up. Read the STR prep threads, it's the closest class to what you're parts put you in.

When you get to the pointier end of the stick or start prepping specifically for a class / purpose then the fine details may change.

Normally we don't allow "street" setup threads here, but since you did your homework and came up with a starting point that was pretty reasonable we can let the thread percolate for a while.

 

Forgot to add, but you may want to drive the car first and see what you think you want it to do before you add parts other than wheels/tires (grip is obviously always an area to increase)

 

I've read parts of the STR thread: everyone seems to have a MUCH stiffer front to rear ratio than what my setup seems to give. It's what's getting me worried that my math is way off and i'll end up having to purchase more parts lol

 

But they're competing in a purpose built class, not building multipurpose cars for the most part. You are not going to enjoy dd'ing something uber stiff.

 

So STR class cars generally have heavy understeer?
Saner bars are about 200lb heavier than the stiffest setting of the Whiteline / Eibach bars.

I have a local S2Ki AutoX guy that kept telling me to go Gendron otherwise my rear will break out whenever i brake in a straight line, when I lift off...etc etc. I moved to square thinking it'll maximize my traction during track sessions AND the ability to rotate tires. Not sure he's trying to scare me or something. Dont' want to wrap my car around a tree though.

Thank you for you info though. I'll be riding a AUTOX tuned car soon so I'll get a good hang of how their cars feel like.

 

They do not. There is a lot more (ride height, alignment, shock settings) to it than you're appreciating. Car setup and tuning is a high level exercise. If you don't know what you're doing, you can make things much worse than stock. Even a few clicks off of optimal on the shocks or a few bar settings off optimal can make an excellent car undrivable.

 

^ What Charles said.

 

This is a good thread. I am in the same boat as I am wanting to make my AP1 more neutral. I have driven a couple events with my Eibach front sway bar and disconnecting my rear sway. I love the feel of it. I was running a 225/255 setup. I managed to run a 255 squared Star Spec set up at my last event and it completed the stiffer front sway bar. But, I blew up my clutch that same day and was able to drive my buddies bone stock CR on Sumitumo HTR Z111 tires 225/255 combo and I was blown away how his car felt and drove on mediocere street tires. I am teeter tottering the idea of selling mine, then buying a CR, and doing miner mods to it. Honda did an unbelievable job developing that car.