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Mugen bolt in roll cage (AP1)
04-08-2018, 07:36 AM
#1
Mugen bolt in roll cage (AP1)
Name: Gabe
Price: $800
Location: Scottsdale, AZ but I am willing to meet in Palm Springs (the cage breaks down into pieces small enough to fit into just about any 4 door sedan)
Contact text or PM
Mugen bolt in roll cage, Mugen interior plastics, and Mugen roll cage padding
For model years 2000-2005
Mugen part #70020-XGS-K0S0 (cage)
Mugen part #84510-XGS-K1S0 (interior plastics)
Originally purchased from King Motorsports back in 2002 (I will include receipts and Mugen model year 2002 catalogue with purchase)
This cage has amazing fitment for a bolt in application, it hugs the contours of the interior for maximum headroom while still allowing for full functionality of the convertible top.
The cage is still installed in my car. If you are interested in checking out the fitment you are welcome to come look at it. It will be removed from the car and ready to deliver by Sunday August 13th.
I have a spare black AP1 dash that I can include if you don't want to cut yours up for an additional $50
Price: $800
Location: Scottsdale, AZ but I am willing to meet in Palm Springs (the cage breaks down into pieces small enough to fit into just about any 4 door sedan)
Contact text or PM
Mugen bolt in roll cage, Mugen interior plastics, and Mugen roll cage padding
For model years 2000-2005
Mugen part #70020-XGS-K0S0 (cage)
Mugen part #84510-XGS-K1S0 (interior plastics)
Originally purchased from King Motorsports back in 2002 (I will include receipts and Mugen model year 2002 catalogue with purchase)
This cage has amazing fitment for a bolt in application, it hugs the contours of the interior for maximum headroom while still allowing for full functionality of the convertible top.
The cage is still installed in my car. If you are interested in checking out the fitment you are welcome to come look at it. It will be removed from the car and ready to deliver by Sunday August 13th.
I have a spare black AP1 dash that I can include if you don't want to cut yours up for an additional $50
Also available (not pictured) Takata 340R 4-point (green) harnesses with all hardware (eyebolts, nuts, washers, etc.) to mount to your S2000
In excellent condition (they hardly look used)
$200 for one of them, or both for $350
Text with questions or if interested: 4 8 0 - two one three - 0 8 6 1
In excellent condition (they hardly look used)
$200 for one of them, or both for $350
Text with questions or if interested: 4 8 0 - two one three - 0 8 6 1
04-08-2018, 04:23 PM
#4
Not going to lie I was totally considering this before I got my half I was just concerned I would hit my head from time to time on the bar that runs from the back into the dash. Bump for a great piece.
04-09-2018, 12:09 PM
#6
The roofline/A-pillar bar tucks up under the hardtop. So it's the same amount of clearance for your noggin as what you would have getting in and out of the car with the top up.
04-09-2018, 12:16 PM
#7
I can include scans of the helms manual and my hand written notes for the buyer.
I've removed the dashboards on two other cars, both of them were 92-95 Honda Civics and the the S2000 was significantly easier. Relative to the Civics: you have less wire connections to unplug, less attachment points to the chassis, and being able to lift it straight up and out once it's disconnected thanks to the convertible top made it much easier than I thought. I had the S2000 dash out in about 2.5 hours. If I had to do it over again I think I could do it in about an hour now that I know all the tricks. I spent way more time than I care to admit removing the rear view mirror. And if I had to do it over again I would remove all 4 bolts that hold the steering column up...the first time I tried just removing two and loosening the other two.
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04-09-2018, 12:35 PM
#8
I was worried about the same thing when I removed it. The dash was actually surprisingly easy.
I can include scans of the helms manual and my hand written notes for the buyer.
I've removed the dashboards on two other cars, both of them were 92-95 Honda Civics and the the S2000 was significantly easier. Relative to the Civics: you have less wire connections to unplug, less attachment points to the chassis, and being able to lift it straight up and out once it's disconnected thanks to the convertible top made it much easier than I thought. I had the S2000 dash out in about 2.5 hours. If I had to do it over again I think I could do it in about an hour now that I know all the tricks. I spent way more time than I care to admit removing the rear view mirror. And if I had to do it over again I would remove all 4 bolts that hold the steering column up...the first time I tried just removing two and loosening the other two.
I can include scans of the helms manual and my hand written notes for the buyer.
I've removed the dashboards on two other cars, both of them were 92-95 Honda Civics and the the S2000 was significantly easier. Relative to the Civics: you have less wire connections to unplug, less attachment points to the chassis, and being able to lift it straight up and out once it's disconnected thanks to the convertible top made it much easier than I thought. I had the S2000 dash out in about 2.5 hours. If I had to do it over again I think I could do it in about an hour now that I know all the tricks. I spent way more time than I care to admit removing the rear view mirror. And if I had to do it over again I would remove all 4 bolts that hold the steering column up...the first time I tried just removing two and loosening the other two.
It's not incredibly difficult, mainly tedious and time consuming. And if you wanted to do it without haphazardly ripping out clips and damaging various areas, it's even more time consuming. There are some zip tie loom clips that can't even be accessed to release, so you just have to cut them... My OCD prevents me from doing this because, even though it may not be visible, i know everything under my dash wouldn't ever be the same if i took it all a part. Integra dash swaps are way easier IMO lol
04-09-2018, 12:47 PM
#9
I've removed 6+ S2000 dashboards. There are a ton of wiring looms clipped to the dashboard, not to mention the one wrapped around the vent tubes that's only accessible once the entire dash is disconnected and tilted forward. Also, you have to remove the steering column unless you want to cut a portion of the dash. I mean, most people likely choose to cut the small plastic connecting piece of the dash board, but that's not something i'd want to do.
It's not incredibly difficult, mainly tedious and time consuming. And if you wanted to do it without haphazardly ripping out clips and damaging various areas, it's even more time consuming. There are some zip tie loom clips that can't even be accessed to release, so you just have to cut them... My OCD prevents me from doing this because, even though it may not be visible, i know everything under my dash wouldn't ever be the same if i took it all a part. Integra dash swaps are way easier IMO lol
It's not incredibly difficult, mainly tedious and time consuming. And if you wanted to do it without haphazardly ripping out clips and damaging various areas, it's even more time consuming. There are some zip tie loom clips that can't even be accessed to release, so you just have to cut them... My OCD prevents me from doing this because, even though it may not be visible, i know everything under my dash wouldn't ever be the same if i took it all a part. Integra dash swaps are way easier IMO lol
I've found that it's faster to snip the zip tie clips, and replace them with new ones on install, and use my fancy flush cut dykes so I don't leave a zip tie stub to gouge my forearm the next time I'm working back there.
I agree, that if you are hell bent on keeping the original ziptie clips that would be royal PITA.