Baffled Oil Pan
03-13-2018, 04:48 PM
#1
Baffled Oil Pan
I was planning to get a baffled oil pan for the new season on the track. I have been lucky for not spun a bearing but i don't think my luck would hold on.
Anyone have good suggestion for a baffled oil pan, I was looking at Ballade sport bolt in baffle, since I don't know how to weld. it seem to be cheaper and easier to install. However people seems to have mixed review about its design.
Any suggestion?
Thanks
Anyone have good suggestion for a baffled oil pan, I was looking at Ballade sport bolt in baffle, since I don't know how to weld. it seem to be cheaper and easier to install. However people seems to have mixed review about its design.
Any suggestion?
Thanks
03-13-2018, 06:52 PM
#2
Registered User
I was planning to get a baffled oil pan for the new season on the track. I have been lucky for not spun a bearing but i don't think my luck would hold on.
Anyone have good suggestion for a baffled oil pan, I was looking at Ballade sport bolt in baffle, since I don't know how to weld. it seem to be cheaper and easier to install. However people seems to have mixed review about its design.
Any suggestion?
Thanks
Anyone have good suggestion for a baffled oil pan, I was looking at Ballade sport bolt in baffle, since I don't know how to weld. it seem to be cheaper and easier to install. However people seems to have mixed review about its design.
Any suggestion?
Thanks
03-14-2018, 04:31 AM
#4
I have the Canton pan and am very pleased.
There are a number of things to consider when getting the Canton pan.
1. Put a straight edge on all of the flanges to make sure they are flat.
2. After you take the stock pan off, you will also have to remove the windage tray, otherwise the Canton pan will not bolt in.
3. Pre-fit the pan before putting sealant on. You may have to slot one or two holes.
4. I used Honda Bond for the sealant. You can use other types, but the Honda Bond is the best, as far as I am concerned.
5. As the steel Canton pan does not conduct heat as well as the aluminum stock pan, you might well consider an oil cooler. I use a Mishimoto cooler with the thermostat.
Good luck!
There are a number of things to consider when getting the Canton pan.
1. Put a straight edge on all of the flanges to make sure they are flat.
2. After you take the stock pan off, you will also have to remove the windage tray, otherwise the Canton pan will not bolt in.
3. Pre-fit the pan before putting sealant on. You may have to slot one or two holes.
4. I used Honda Bond for the sealant. You can use other types, but the Honda Bond is the best, as far as I am concerned.
5. As the steel Canton pan does not conduct heat as well as the aluminum stock pan, you might well consider an oil cooler. I use a Mishimoto cooler with the thermostat.
Good luck!
03-14-2018, 04:55 AM
#5
I'm running a Spoon oil pan which is basically an OEM pan with a baffle plate welded in.
Positives are it's an OEM pan so it's not going to have the same types of cooling issues as the Canton and you're probably not going to have to worry about fit. The baffle design seems pretty good.
Negatives are it's JDM expensive. But it has a Spoon badge that no one will see lol.
This is where I got mine from:
https://www.rhdjapan.com/spoon-sport...n-ap1-ap2.html
Positives are it's an OEM pan so it's not going to have the same types of cooling issues as the Canton and you're probably not going to have to worry about fit. The baffle design seems pretty good.
Negatives are it's JDM expensive. But it has a Spoon badge that no one will see lol.
This is where I got mine from:
https://www.rhdjapan.com/spoon-sport...n-ap1-ap2.html
03-14-2018, 07:09 AM
#6
I've read a bunch of bad things about the canton pan. I personally had the canton pan, and could not get it to seal for the life of me. I'm taking 7+ times i tried in 2016, i think i'm an expert at puling and installing oil pans now lol.
I tried everything...making sure everything was square and proper, making sure both surfaces were squeaky clean, i even made dowels and had a friend and i put the pan in place. The main issue i had with it that i didn't like is that it doesn't come with dowels so when you put on the pan it will move slightly, so thats why i made dowels so the pan goes on straight as you can and doesn't move. I hate how the baffle must clear the oil pickup so you have to angle it in place slightly...which makes it slightly awkward to put on.
However no matter what i did it always seeped a tiny tiny bit of oil. It was frustrating to say the least... looking at s2ki, some people were having the same problems as me, so i tossed it. I used the recommended gasket maker from the service manual from Honda which is just ultra gray anyways.
At the end of the day, I ended up going with the Moroso oil pan baffle plate, and i'm quite pleased. I figured it had a similar trap door effect i was going for with the canton, but with oem fitment and heat conductivity.
I had a local industrial welding company weld in my baffle plate which only cost $20...to them it was such a trivial job.
I installed it and just 1 time, just 1 time...everything was sealed correctly.
PS. If you followed speed academy with their ASS2000 build, the canton oil pan indirectly caused their engine to spin a bearing.
They ended up using too much gasket maker to compensate for the poor fitting and leaking Canton racing oil pan. They messed up and used too much which caused a blocked oil passage and therefore spun a bearing.
I tried everything...making sure everything was square and proper, making sure both surfaces were squeaky clean, i even made dowels and had a friend and i put the pan in place. The main issue i had with it that i didn't like is that it doesn't come with dowels so when you put on the pan it will move slightly, so thats why i made dowels so the pan goes on straight as you can and doesn't move. I hate how the baffle must clear the oil pickup so you have to angle it in place slightly...which makes it slightly awkward to put on.
However no matter what i did it always seeped a tiny tiny bit of oil. It was frustrating to say the least... looking at s2ki, some people were having the same problems as me, so i tossed it. I used the recommended gasket maker from the service manual from Honda which is just ultra gray anyways.
At the end of the day, I ended up going with the Moroso oil pan baffle plate, and i'm quite pleased. I figured it had a similar trap door effect i was going for with the canton, but with oem fitment and heat conductivity.
I had a local industrial welding company weld in my baffle plate which only cost $20...to them it was such a trivial job.
I installed it and just 1 time, just 1 time...everything was sealed correctly.
PS. If you followed speed academy with their ASS2000 build, the canton oil pan indirectly caused their engine to spin a bearing.
They ended up using too much gasket maker to compensate for the poor fitting and leaking Canton racing oil pan. They messed up and used too much which caused a blocked oil passage and therefore spun a bearing.
03-14-2018, 09:19 AM
#7
I've heard some not so good things about the Canton as well... mostly with sealing issues and cooling issues (no fins like oem)...
I have a J's baffled pan and haven't had an issues with it... much like the Spoon version it looks OEM with a baffle welded in.
Evasive now makes a baffle that doesn't require welding... They usually make good stuff and it's relatively inexpensive.
EVS Tuning Oil Baffle Plate - Honda S2000 | Evasive Motorsports
I have a J's baffled pan and haven't had an issues with it... much like the Spoon version it looks OEM with a baffle welded in.
Evasive now makes a baffle that doesn't require welding... They usually make good stuff and it's relatively inexpensive.
EVS Tuning Oil Baffle Plate - Honda S2000 | Evasive Motorsports
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03-14-2018, 10:21 AM
#8
Yeah, I get what you're saying with the Canton pan. I got mine super cheap, BNIB, and checked it over real careful like.
Maybe the later ones are better than the early version. Mine has been great. I like the additional bungs for temp sensors etc.
I also check the tightness of the bolts every few track days, as the rear of the pan was once a little, shall we say, moist.
I like the fact it has an extra liter oil capacity too.
All in all I'd still recommend the Canton pan.
Maybe the later ones are better than the early version. Mine has been great. I like the additional bungs for temp sensors etc.
I also check the tightness of the bolts every few track days, as the rear of the pan was once a little, shall we say, moist.
I like the fact it has an extra liter oil capacity too.
All in all I'd still recommend the Canton pan.
03-14-2018, 12:17 PM
#9
After doing a lot of research myself on all the baffled pan options, I wound up being advised to go with the Evasive bolt in baffle and the simplicity and design of it is highly reassuring. It bolts onto existing points in the pan and the way it works is that you'd have to literally shear off the pane in order for the bolts to be sucked into the pump. The plate itself is also nicely cut and I plan on installing it in a few weeks.
Realistically, if you're going to have that high of a potential to run dry, you should consider something like an Accusump anyways.
Realistically, if you're going to have that high of a potential to run dry, you should consider something like an Accusump anyways.
03-14-2018, 12:39 PM
#10
After doing a lot of research myself on all the baffled pan options, I wound up being advised to go with the Evasive bolt in baffle and the simplicity and design of it is highly reassuring. It bolts onto existing points in the pan and the way it works is that you'd have to literally shear off the pane in order for the bolts to be sucked into the pump. The plate itself is also nicely cut and I plan on installing it in a few weeks.
Realistically, if you're going to have that high of a potential to run dry, you should consider something like an Accusump anyways.
Realistically, if you're going to have that high of a potential to run dry, you should consider something like an Accusump anyways.
Thanks.