How should I go about replacing clutch?
 

I'm in the Waterloo area and my clutch engagement is super high right now. I'm pretty sure thats a sign thats its almost done. Theres no slippage, but taking off from 1st is getting pretty annoying.

So where should I buy parts from and who would you get to install it? My car is stock. The local honda dealer was about total 2k all in. I'm thinking about doing the clutch myself, but I'm just afraid of getting the car that high or something going wrong.

It is quite the process as you need to lower the engine, remove the driveshaft, and of course the tranny. Doing it on jackstands can be done but you need the appropriate tools, and having a second set of hands really helps. I did it in my garage, having Nick's help was important getting the tranny on and off, and using the two person method to remove the driveshaft bolts which can always be tricky. I hate working under a raised car on jacks but we made it work.

Is your clutch rod adjusted properly as that can affect the engagement point ?, if the clutch isn't slipping I'd probably leave it. My integra has 190k kms on it and it still engages low, though I'm sure it is coming due for replacement, so the engagement point isn't always an indication that your clutch needs replacing. If your clutch isn't slipping try to move the engagement point through the clutch rod adjustment and see if it helps.

Adjust the clutch pedal rod before paying for a new clutch...
if the clutch isn't actually slipping then it doesn't seem like you'll need to replace it.
If that doesn't help, then go the new clutch route...

Gearbox is 100 lbs,so eat a breakfast B4
adjust pedal under dash to lower the point of engagement .<Fulcrum angle> as it may be pre adjusted.
If Not,
Replace

I've thought a lot about this, as my engagement is similar, right near the top, only need to depress the clutch pedal a tiny bit. This happened after doing a clutch fluid flush and I had to readjust the master cylinder rod. No slipping, grips fine. I keep thinking if the clutch eventually goes, whether I'll do it myself over a winter, but clearance on jack stands plus whether I can get help is a big concern. The ACT/OE combo is reasonably priced, it's the labour that kills.

^ yeah Jeff has a great point. When my engine blew I had no choice but to pull the engine in my garage. I bought the tallest jackstands I could find. I honestly hate working under cars, I used 6 jackstands, and shoved the wheels under the rockers and kept the jack underneath the car as well, you can't be too safe in that environment. Having an extra set of hands is a huge benefit maneuvering the tranny, and two-person driveshaft bolt removal procedure. If you strip out one driveshaft bolt hex head you will wish you paid $400+ to do the entire job at that point. Having a number of specialty tools really helps, and a compressor with air tools if doing it yourself.

^^^ I did my clutch on a drive on lift last season... it was my first time ever doing a clutch job but I did it with a buddy who's a mechanic and it took us about 3 - 3 1/2 hours.

800km's later, my release bearing failed during break in and i had to redo it on jackstands in my garage... took me over 10hours with a buddy... was a nightmare lol

​​​​​​10 hours? Nightmare? Even with a buddy? That just convinced me. If I ever need my clutch replaced, I'll ask you who to go to in London!

I changed my clutch by myself just before the winter. One man job and did a lot of research. Before this project I knew nothing about clutch.

Some of the notes below
1. To remove the flywheel it's better to use a good compressor and air impact gun.
2. I recommend the dual lock 3.5t jack stands which are high enough to work underneath
3. When remove / install the transmission it's practical to use several wood block to jack it up and balance in the middle
4. I use the act pressure plate and oem release bearing & clutch disc. Also new pilot bearing. Align the PP carefully.
5. Previous owner stripped the screws connecting the bell housing between engine and transmission. I have to find special screws 5mm longer to tighten them up(from accord alternator)
6.since the subframes were lowered, I also bought and installed the spoon rigid collars.

Overall I took out and replaced the transmission 3 times due to missing this and that. Eventually I did it. Total time, maybe 3~4 weeks or 40 hours? I learned a lot of transmission and engine/flywheel knowledge.

I think I got charged $400 to change my clutch which I thought was a bit steep but versus 40 hours I think I got a steal lol.

I think If only the clutch replacement that'll be faster. But I've done additional work such as:
1. took out the flywheel and sent to a shop (Bush) to re-surface (replace new pilot bearing after that).
2. replace new transmission mounts
3. sand and re-grease the rod for clutch slave
4. clean and re-grease the shifter
5. flush clutch fluid
6. install spoon rigid collars
7. replace new bolts for header exhaust connection.
8. etc etc...

I believe the previous owner (or the shop) did a terrible job on the clutch which the parts using have design defects. See below the springs dropped out of the holders. I feel good that all the parts I bought and installed should have followed high standards.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...9687b410ba.jpg

Based on nothing except what I get charged for other work and backing into how many hours this approximates. I'm not complaining, I know what I get quoted is usually fair and there's other stuff I've had done that I thought was too cheap.

Hmmm just googled a roadtrip to Billman. Ughhh trust issues. Clutch on the S2k can't be that hard for a reputable shop... Riiiiight???

a reputable shop could handle it, but they need to be familiar with the S2000 IMO and there are lots of little tricks to help make things go smoothly. Probably the main reason I did it myself was that I wanted it done right. Torquing all of the bolts to spec is key on reinstallation, accessing the top tranny bolts is a bit tricky, dropping the subframe correctly is important, having replacement driveshaft bolts is helpful. Lubing the throwout bearing in correct fashion by filling the internal recess (lube for life of the part) is really important or you will be pulling the tranny a couple years down the road for a squeaky clutch. Probably one of the biggest mistakes made by aftermarket shops is imporper throwout bearing lube procedures and incorrect lube. Most shops will substitute a cheaper grease as the Honda hi-temp grease is very expensive. Proper hand-torqueing of the bolts and proper lubrication procedures are key details for me which makes me distrust many shops for work on an S2000. The shop needs to have done several S2000 clutch jobs in order to get it right IMO, far different than working on a fwd Civic.

As crazy as it may sound to take your car to Billman distance-wise, it really isn't a bad idea. He has gotten it down to a science and does it while you wait in short order. Definitely one shop I would not hesitate using.

LOL who's Ivan?

I think he's referring to iGarage in Markham.