Storing S
#21
Take your choice. Internet advice or Honda advice.
From the 2006 Owners Manual page 167. Note the oil change requirement disappears in the 2008 version. Emphasis added.
-- Chuck.
From the 2006 Owners Manual page 167. Note the oil change requirement disappears in the 2008 version. Emphasis added.
-- Chuck.
If you need to park your vehicle for
an extended period (more than 1
month), there are several things you
should do to prepare it for storage.
Proper preparation helps prevent
deterioration and makes it easier to
get your vehicle back on the road. If
possible, store your vehicle indoors.
Fill the fuel tank.
Change the engine oil and filter.
Wash and dry the exterior
completely.
Clean the interior. Make sure the
carpeting, floor mats, etc., are
completely dry.
Raise the convertible top cover.
Leave the parking brake off. Put
the transmission in reverse.
Block the rear wheels.
If the vehicle is to be stored for a
longer period, it should be
supported on jackstands so the
tires are off the ground.
Leave one window open slightly (if
the vehicle is being stored
indoors).
Disconnect the battery.
Cover the vehicle with a
"breathable" cover, one made
from a porous material such as
cotton. Non-porous materials, such
as plastic sheeting, trap moisture,
which can damage the paint.
Support the front wiper blade
arms with a folded towel or rag so
they do not touch the windshield.
To minimize sticking, apply a
silicone spray lubricant to all door
and trunk seals. Also, apply a
vehicle body wax to the painted
surfaces that mate with the door
and trunk seals.
If possible, periodically run the
engine until it reaches full
operating temperature (the
cooling fan cycles on and off
twice). Preferably, do this once a
month.
Vehicle Storage
Maintenance
167
an extended period (more than 1
month), there are several things you
should do to prepare it for storage.
Proper preparation helps prevent
deterioration and makes it easier to
get your vehicle back on the road. If
possible, store your vehicle indoors.
Fill the fuel tank.
Change the engine oil and filter.
Wash and dry the exterior
completely.
Clean the interior. Make sure the
carpeting, floor mats, etc., are
completely dry.
Raise the convertible top cover.
Leave the parking brake off. Put
the transmission in reverse.
Block the rear wheels.
If the vehicle is to be stored for a
longer period, it should be
supported on jackstands so the
tires are off the ground.
Leave one window open slightly (if
the vehicle is being stored
indoors).
Disconnect the battery.
Cover the vehicle with a
"breathable" cover, one made
from a porous material such as
cotton. Non-porous materials, such
as plastic sheeting, trap moisture,
which can damage the paint.
Support the front wiper blade
arms with a folded towel or rag so
they do not touch the windshield.
To minimize sticking, apply a
silicone spray lubricant to all door
and trunk seals. Also, apply a
vehicle body wax to the painted
surfaces that mate with the door
and trunk seals.
If possible, periodically run the
engine until it reaches full
operating temperature (the
cooling fan cycles on and off
twice). Preferably, do this once a
month.
Vehicle Storage
Maintenance
167
#23
2006 Manual Link below. They're all online.
http://owners.honda.com/vehicles/inf.../S2000/manuals
Interesting...
http://owners.honda.com/vehicles/inf.../S2000/manuals
Interesting...
#24
I put it away with however much fuel is in the tank, unless it's really empty. Obviously washed and clean with the cover on. I try not to start it until the next year unless I do some work on it and have to move the car. I don't even put the battery on charge. Latches open, tranny in reverse and wheels on the ground. 5 months is not long enough to get flat spots on the tires IMO
#25
Since the car is only being stored for 5-6 months, I don't bother basing it on when the car goes into storage. I stay on normal schedule of once a year or 7,000KM. Whichever comes first. I wouldnt stretch out an oil change just so i could change it right before storage, and I wouldnt waste oil by changing it after a couple thousand if thats all I got before storage from when last change was.
If you do less than 7,000km than I guess it would be better for fresh oil to sit, than dirty oil, don't give the bad deposits a chance to sit for a long period of time.
If you do less than 7,000km than I guess it would be better for fresh oil to sit, than dirty oil, don't give the bad deposits a chance to sit for a long period of time.
#27
Oil change? RTFM!
Honda owners manual specifies clean oil in the engine to get rid of any residual acids, etc. that the oil has picked up since the last oil change. If you've only a few miles on the oil it should be OK. I do my annual oil and filter change just before I tuck her into bed for the winter. Gearbox every other oil change so that will happen in a few weeks too.
Honda owners manual specifies clean oil in the engine to get rid of any residual acids, etc. that the oil has picked up since the last oil change. If you've only a few miles on the oil it should be OK. I do my annual oil and filter change just before I tuck her into bed for the winter. Gearbox every other oil change so that will happen in a few weeks too.
I store under a breathable cover in my garage. Off the floor to keep the car away from salt and dirt brought in by the other cars. Car washed and vacuumed before storage. Empty the trunk and remove any junk. Roof up and unlatched. Windows down. Wipers off the windshield. Trickle charge the battery every couple of weeks. Spin the wheels weekly to keep the brakes free.
Honda recommends a monthly start yet internet experts disagree. I'm sticking with Honda. Monthly start and run to operating temperature (fans cycle twice). Since she's off the ground I run her at idle speed thru the gears to keep the gear box and differential lubricated. Turn VSA off to prevent the computer from going crazy with all the wheel spin. Do not steer the car with the wheels off the ground unless you want to reset the power steering.
-- Chuck
-- Chuck
Additionally, oil takes much longer to heat up than does coolant. It also needs to stay at temp for quite some time to actually burn off all the moisture.
To add to the guy mentioning taking off the exhaust to drain... About a year ago I did a turbo swap on a Subaru and we had a gasket leak. Within a very short time, there was straight water coming out of the leak and dripping down. The moisture is real.
That said, I've been storing cars for a long time. I currently store two for 5-6 months at a time. I do not start them until it's time to drive. I will, however, turn off the fuel injectors and crank it over a few times to get some oil moving, but that's the extent of it. I also store them with E85 in the tanks and rarely do I ever get the tank full. The STi injectors in my S2000 do not have stainless internals and it hasn't been a problem since I put them in years ago.
I do, however, put my track tires in the basement. If I followed Honda's recommendation on everything (like the maintenance light), I would have probably spun a bearing by now. 16 track days on a single change of oil would not do well.
EDIT: A little more example. After starting the car, I let it warm up cycle the fan (in the garage without cool temps), then drove it around the block to give it load. Water temp was up to temp, but oil wasn't even close at 96.8F... And these are only 55-60F temps.
#29
#30
I just put fresh Motul in my car before this past weekends track day so I won't be dumping it and putting new oil in the car before storage.
Typically I just drive my car on those foam interlock pads, unlatch the soft top (keep the top up though), over inflate the tires, crack the window down slightly, put it in reverse, ebrake down, put a breathable cover on it in my garage, and cry.
Typically I just drive my car on those foam interlock pads, unlatch the soft top (keep the top up though), over inflate the tires, crack the window down slightly, put it in reverse, ebrake down, put a breathable cover on it in my garage, and cry.