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Valve Adjustment

 
Old 10-23-2018, 05:18 AM
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Worst thing about DIY here is bending over the engine. Your back will be in pain! Put the car on jackstands to mitigate this. Tool cost is under $20 of Amazon.

-- Chuck
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Old 10-23-2018, 07:17 AM
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​I did my last valve adjustment with the engine out of the car. Easiest VA I’ve ever done lol


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Old 10-23-2018, 08:29 AM
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how tight do you guys run? spec?
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Old 10-23-2018, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by S2KComingSoon View Post
how tight do you guys run? spec?
8 thou intake
10 thou exhaust

Tight side of the spec

i don’t mind doing it more often as they end up tightening up over time
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Old 10-23-2018, 11:07 AM
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2006 DBW AP2 Engine:

There is no loss in performance at the high side of the spec and (as noted) they tighten in use and will quickly to too tight if set at minimum. Allowing for some wear is the best practice. Especially since tight exhaust clearance will burn the valves with the AP2 DBW engine as in the 2006 car in question here.

0.010" intake (Honda spec).
0.012" exhaust (Billman spec). *

-- Chuck

* There's a "zillion" page thread on this problem in the DBW AP2 engine cars. Executive summary in my note.
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Old 10-23-2018, 05:27 PM
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I just did my '06 DBW AP2 before storage setting IN .008, EX .012 after driving 8000 kms this past summer.

One EX valve was at .011 (from .012), but all intakes were still at .008 to .009 with no change noted.
Is the recommendation for going loose on the intake at .010 too then?

darcy
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Old 10-24-2018, 04:40 AM
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In spec is in spec. As long as they're in spec -- as yours are now -- there is no reason to adjust them at this time. The reason to set clearances at the max setting (and 0.001" over for the exhaust) is to allow them to remain in spec as they tighten in use. If you're checking at 5000 mile intervals see what they are next time and bump them all to max if any are at or close to going under the minimum clearance.

I liken this to checking the engine oil level. As long as it is anywhere between the marks there is no reason to add oil. Easy in this case, of course, but not necessary.

-- Chuck
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Old 10-24-2018, 05:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Chuck S View Post
Worst thing about DIY here is bending over the engine. Your back will be in pain! Put the car on jackstands to mitigate this. Tool cost is under $20 of Amazon.

-- Chuck
Ya got that right. Pain in the back for sure.

Another good reason for checking the valve clearances every year (for AP1s) is to have a good look at the intake valve retainers and collets. Check to see if the valve is starting to sink into the retainer. If so, you likely have a cracked retainer. This only happens if you over-rev the engine on a downshift. I use a small dentist's mirror to have a look at the rear intake valves. Good peace of mind.
Facts:
  • If you don't overrev/mis-shift, your retainers won't crack either with age, or spontaneously.
  • Quoting Billman250, "Change intake side only. Using AP2 retainers on the exhaust side will lower the float RPM it takes to bend them. It would defeat the purpose. The idea is to raise the over-rev RPM that can cause hidden damage."
  • For AP1s, changing the retainers is 100% optional -- upgrading to AP2 on the intake side will buy you a few hundred RPM in case of a miss-shift/overrev (per above)
See below for REALLY bad retainers:


Good on the left - Bad on the right:

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