Yet another winter storage question
11-02-2003, 05:28 AM
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Yet another winter storage question
Not to long ago there was a thread about how to store our cars. In that thread someone said our cars were not designed to be stored on jack stands. Is this true and why? I never realized some cars were designed to be stored on stands and others weren't.
11-02-2003, 06:59 AM
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The suspension was design to have wieght on it.
The only reason this was done in the past was to save the tires from flat spotting. I pump my tires up to about 40 #s and put foam insulation under each tire. The foam will mould to the tire and save them.
The only reason this was done in the past was to save the tires from flat spotting. I pump my tires up to about 40 #s and put foam insulation under each tire. The foam will mould to the tire and save them.
11-02-2003, 07:01 AM
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People don't like doing the jack stand thing because the suspension is unloaded and hanging in an unnatural position. It might stress the suspension, especially the shocks in a way they weren't designed for. Supposedly some cars had restraining straps to prevent the suspension to totally unload.
Also, the reason to put the car on stands originally was to prevent flat spotting bias ply tires. Now tires are all steel belted radials and don't really flat spot. Just pump the tires to high pressure and maybe park on some carpet scraps.
Also, the reason to put the car on stands originally was to prevent flat spotting bias ply tires. Now tires are all steel belted radials and don't really flat spot. Just pump the tires to high pressure and maybe park on some carpet scraps.
11-02-2003, 07:03 AM
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"design to have wieght on it" Any documentation? Sounds like a bad romour to me.
Regardless it's still better to jack it up, you can always put the jack stands somewhere on the under the suspenion to keep a load on it.
Regardless it's still better to jack it up, you can always put the jack stands somewhere on the under the suspenion to keep a load on it.
11-02-2003, 08:13 AM
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Originally posted by maxrpm
"design to have wieght on it" Any documentation? Sounds like a bad romour to me.
Regardless it's still better to jack it up, you can always put the jack stands somewhere on the under the suspenion to keep a load on it.
"design to have wieght on it" Any documentation? Sounds like a bad romour to me.
Regardless it's still better to jack it up, you can always put the jack stands somewhere on the under the suspenion to keep a load on it.
Why jack it up other than tire flat spotting? What's the advantage to go through the extra trouble and expense and possibly stressing the jack points on the frame for the entire winter? There are no official jack points on the suspension, be careful that you have a good spot selected, don't want anything to slip. There are special jacks which bolt on the wheel hub that are good.
Personally, I am jacking the car. I have to do this since my R-compound tires are not supposed to be stored in sub-zero temperatures.
It probably doesn't matter either way. Whatever makes you feel better.
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11-02-2003, 08:21 AM
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This is what Ive been told from a few experts that I work with.
1G should be on the suspension at all times(natural sitting position)
1) Suspension unloading: Springs and dampers should be loaded and not unloaded for a long period of time. When dampers are extended for long periods corrosion can build on the shafts and when time comes for spring and the damper is compressed the corrosion on the shafts can damage seals causing leaks and damper failure.
2) Jacking points are designed to support point loads for a short period of time. Ever seen those things bend? Wouldnt want that to happen on my car.
3) Supporting a car on its jacking points on a non level floor introduces stresses on the body. Unless your floor is perfectly flat and level dont even try. Torsional stress for along period of time can create squeaks , rattles and even bad body creaks(cracked welds). Not soo good considering how ridgid the AP1 body structure is.
There were more, but i cant remember them all. Reccomended is to keep it on the ground, put 50+psi in tires, sit it on wood or carpet. Id rather have some flat spotting then a nasty body creak due to a broken or cracked welds.
1G should be on the suspension at all times(natural sitting position)
1) Suspension unloading: Springs and dampers should be loaded and not unloaded for a long period of time. When dampers are extended for long periods corrosion can build on the shafts and when time comes for spring and the damper is compressed the corrosion on the shafts can damage seals causing leaks and damper failure.
2) Jacking points are designed to support point loads for a short period of time. Ever seen those things bend? Wouldnt want that to happen on my car.
3) Supporting a car on its jacking points on a non level floor introduces stresses on the body. Unless your floor is perfectly flat and level dont even try. Torsional stress for along period of time can create squeaks , rattles and even bad body creaks(cracked welds). Not soo good considering how ridgid the AP1 body structure is.
There were more, but i cant remember them all. Reccomended is to keep it on the ground, put 50+psi in tires, sit it on wood or carpet. Id rather have some flat spotting then a nasty body creak due to a broken or cracked welds.
11-02-2003, 08:49 AM
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"few experts" why are they expert"
"corrosion on the shafts can damage seals causing" If that would happen, I think you would have a lot more other parts to worry about.
"Jacking points" You don't have to use the typical jacking points.
"introduces stresses on the body" Those stresses won't even compare to the stresses of driving the car, specially for those that go to Shannonville.
"corrosion on the shafts can damage seals causing" If that would happen, I think you would have a lot more other parts to worry about.
"Jacking points" You don't have to use the typical jacking points.
"introduces stresses on the body" Those stresses won't even compare to the stresses of driving the car, specially for those that go to Shannonville.