Valve retainer replacement/ valve adjustment
#1
Valve retainer replacement/ valve adjustment
Anyone know of anyone or any shops in the San Antonio or Austin area that have experience with upgrading valve retainers on an AP1 and doing a valve adjustment on these cars? I thought about diving in and giving it a try but I figured I'd probably be better off finding someone with some experience with it. Thanks for any input
#2
i imagine Vtechnicians in south central Austin could knock this out no problem, i have no idea how much it would cost. i do not know of a guy on the forums that does this specifically, unlike tops and fender rolling. GL
#3
I talked with Vtechnicians today. They don't seem very familiar with S2000's and couldn't understand why I would want to replace valve spring retainers until after I went through a long explanation. Then, they insisted on pulling the head off of the car and milling it. Honestly, just based on today's conversation I would do the job myself before taking it to them.
#4
Yeah, from what you're saying, I'd avoid that shop entirely. The valve adjustment is fairly easy, but you need to do it with the engine cold. The valve spring retainers isn't to bad as long ad you have the valve spring compressor tool. I got mine from kings performance IIRC. Haven't gotten around to it yet, but it's an easy job. Just takes time.
#7
Trending Topics
#9
If you do it yourself, buy or borrow a valve tool made by Lisle. One push on top of the valve will dislodge the keeper/retainer and will keep it inside the magnetized part of the tool. Likewise putting the new one back on is one push to set the two keepers and sets the cap. You can use a hammer to do both but I just used solid pressure with hands/arm. The old fashion valve spring crank tools won't fit even after you grind the arms down to nothing. The tool cost me around $50 ar O'Reilly's
Setting the engine to TDC and pressurizing each cylinder at about 100 PSI will do the trick. Don't lose any small bits. Plug every hole in the head with cork or something. Don't want anything dropping into engine. Only the intake is recommended. Part 14781-PCX-004 and 14765-PRB-A01. I got mine from Hardtopguy.
Read all other DIY's as I just hit the highlights.
Good luck
Headed to Austin for the F1 race again next week anyone going? I hit Lockhart last year and want some good q in Austin, any recommendatons
Setting the engine to TDC and pressurizing each cylinder at about 100 PSI will do the trick. Don't lose any small bits. Plug every hole in the head with cork or something. Don't want anything dropping into engine. Only the intake is recommended. Part 14781-PCX-004 and 14765-PRB-A01. I got mine from Hardtopguy.
Read all other DIY's as I just hit the highlights.
Good luck
Headed to Austin for the F1 race again next week anyone going? I hit Lockhart last year and want some good q in Austin, any recommendatons
#10
If you do it yourself, buy or borrow a valve tool made by Lisle. One push on top of the valve will dislodge the keeper/retainer and will keep it inside the magnetized part of the tool. Likewise putting the new one back on is one push to set the two keepers and sets the cap. You can use a hammer to do both but I just used solid pressure with hands/arm. The old fashion valve spring crank tools won't fit even after you grind the arms down to nothing. The tool cost me around $50 ar O'Reilly's
Setting the engine to TDC and pressurizing each cylinder at about 100 PSI will do the trick. Don't lose any small bits. Plug every hole in the head with cork or something. Don't want anything dropping into engine. Only the intake is recommended. Part 14781-PCX-004 and 14765-PRB-A01. I got mine from Hardtopguy.
Read all other DIY's as I just hit the highlights.
Good luck
Headed to Austin for the F1 race again next week anyone going? I hit Lockhart last year and want some good q in Austin, any recommendatons
Setting the engine to TDC and pressurizing each cylinder at about 100 PSI will do the trick. Don't lose any small bits. Plug every hole in the head with cork or something. Don't want anything dropping into engine. Only the intake is recommended. Part 14781-PCX-004 and 14765-PRB-A01. I got mine from Hardtopguy.
Read all other DIY's as I just hit the highlights.
Good luck
Headed to Austin for the F1 race again next week anyone going? I hit Lockhart last year and want some good q in Austin, any recommendatons