champion_hero

So I've finally hit the 150K Mile club and still (mostly) going strong.

At the ripe old age of 16 years now, with 150K on the clock, what sort of maintenance should I be looking at doing? As a reference, I have done/had done the following so far;

TCT (Billmans)
Rear brake pipes
Shocks & Springs
Calipers (3/4)
Bushes all checked/replaced if needed including compliance and castor (mugen) - all free/greased and Geo adjusted
Replaced fan belt the other week (1st one)
Air Con re-gassed (first time last week)
Cat replaced with Berk high flow
K&N Gen 2 etc.
Rear drop links replaced
Fan switch replaced (Mishimoto Fan Switch 80°)
Oils replaced etc (although I'm likely to do the rear diff oil again soon as it's been a couple of years)
Usual service bits 'n' pieces.

In terms of issues, my main ones are the following;

• Oil Consumption has gone up - about 1L (H > L) every 800 miles or so I reckon now. Was previously around 1000 or slightly over.
• Small white puffs of smoke pulling away from junctions or going into reverse - Compression and leak tests done 3 weeks ago suggest all is ok, and the garage was actually very impressed with the compression. They suspect I 'may' have a small leak around the piston rings which could allow oil to burn but don't think its of major concern. No gunk can be seen on the oil cap and I couldn't see any oil in the rad reservoir tank (although this was mostly empty when cold.. normal?)
• Clutch fluid replacement - how often are people needing to do this? I state needing, not a just because... I had to get mine done less than a year or so ago as the clutch went really floppy whilst driving one afternoon. Today on the way home from work it did the exact same thing suggesting I need to replace the fluid again. The pedal and bite is basically on the floor, causing the gear to crunch slightly as it has to be pumped and pushed in. I'm going to get the fluid replaced tomorrow morning, but could I possibly have a leak that is causing pressure to drop, or could the age of my clutch (being original) be causing the fluid to boil easier (if that's how it works?)

Any help on those points appreciated, but any any general advice on things to check at this age/mileage would be very welcome. I'm aware the rear arches are probably bad based on other threads, but anything else to check would be great.

Cheers!

/edit - oh and yes, a good dusting is on the list of jobs :P

bluepurple

I wouldn't be that concerned about the oil consumption, unless you want to stump up for a rebuild - personally i would just keep an eye on oil level. Rings and valves are going to be costly.

As for the clutch fluid - I wouldn't consider this a regular service item, flushing is probably only necessary every 2-3 years. You could always grab a turkey baster and replace the fluid in the reservoir every so often, if you feel inclined to do so. If you are losing clutch feel then i would check the master/slave inst leaking - this is most likely your problem. You may see fluid by the pedal or from the slave, near the gearbox.

A few other things i did on mine were:

Clutch fork re-grease - https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...-pedal-370792/

Gear shifter re-grease - https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...er-diy-772277/

Adjust clutch bite point - https://www.s2ki.com/forums/californ...stment-192881/

Andy_F

Your clutch pedal issue sounds more like a master cylinder leak. Have a look in the reservoir and try topping it up first if it looks low, but you'll most likely need to replace the cylinder. Happened to mine recently, went from totally normal to completely buggered in about 2 days, low dirty fluid and floppy top half of the pedal. Was about £120 quid for an OEM replacement from Tegiwa I think, not a particularly difficult job.

champion_hero

Thanks for the feedback gents.

I did the gear stick and clutch forks last year, but may be worth a revisit to do again
Didn't know about the bite point though, so I'll add that on!

With regards to the clutch - I was unable to get into gear at all this morning, with the pedal pressure completely dead. Checked the fluid and it had dropped under the min marker and is quite black. Luckily, I had a bottle of DOT 5.1 in the loft so have topped up with that, given the clutch a good pump on the way to work and it's feeling much better again. However, I've dropped it into a local garage to check for leaks. Quick question about clutch/brake fluid though - I've always heard you should never use a bottle after it's been opened. But surely if it's been opened, used, and then done back up it should be ok? Either way, I've asked them to replaced the fluid as Honda would have used a different fluid I imagine... got me to the garage though that's the main thing

I'll give the pedal area a look over on the weekend, as I also need to take a look at that big hex nut on the head, as that looked a little oily this morning too.

s2konroids

You could change the suction sock on the fuel pump. I pulled one out at circa 120k and it was little dirty nothing bad though.

chrispayze

The issue with brake fluid being open is that it absorbs moisture (even from the air that is now in the resealed bottle), reducing the boiling point. For clutch, I wouldn't have thought it's something to worry about quite as much, as it doesn't have as much heat going into it.

champion_hero

Turns out the slave is leaking so I've suctioned out what I can and put some new fluid in for now and will order up a new one.

TangoVTEC

Got a spare slave in the garage if you need it pal. (The clutch kind, obviously!)

PM if interested.

Dan

Andy_F

Slave will be much, much easier to change. You'll need to change the fluid completely in the process of swapping the cylinder. My rule of thumb with brake/clutch fluid is 12 months from breaking the seal, I won't use that bottle again to top up. Kinda depends how many times you have subsequently cracked the seal on the bottle again though since - in reality you're probably fine to use it for a good while after though, depends how anal you are.