2007 AP1 Face-lift - What's different?
04-28-2017, 08:45 AM
#11
Thread Starter
04-28-2017, 08:46 AM
#12
Thread Starter
Which dash cluster do you guys prefer - AP1 or 2 (pre or post face-lift)??
04-28-2017, 05:00 PM
#13
Registered User
My car is the best model (IMO 
) as it is a facelift (MY2005) AP1, which means it has the best throttle response (cable), no stupid VSA to cause issues (it hasn't got the power to pull the skin off a rice(r) pudding anyway, so God knows why Honda felt it needed this LOL), no oil consumption / valve-train issues that plagued the early pre-facelift cars, nor the engine woes of the 2007 cars and the best engine (I'm talking from an engineering point of view, as it has far superior design compared to the F22) - better rod angle, better piston speed when comparing like for like rpm and that 9k limit us AP1 owners love (waiting for the AP2 onslaught )
) as it is a facelift (MY2005) AP1, which means it has the best throttle response (cable), no stupid VSA to cause issues (it hasn't got the power to pull the skin off a rice(r) pudding anyway, so God knows why Honda felt it needed this LOL), no oil consumption / valve-train issues that plagued the early pre-facelift cars, nor the engine woes of the 2007 cars and the best engine (I'm talking from an engineering point of view, as it has far superior design compared to the F22) - better rod angle, better piston speed when comparing like for like rpm and that 9k limit us AP1 owners love (waiting for the AP2 onslaught )While the S certainly has a low amount of torque, especially below 6000rpm, it all depends on the alignment of a particular vehicle. In my experience you can have alignment settings at the low range of what's recommended by Honda(very little rear camber and toe) and the car can be really tail happy, especially in the wet in 1st and 2nd and with the original bridgestones.
For a buyer who has no idea about alignment settings and is new to rear drive, that VSA could potentially pull them out of the shit if it works properly.
if your alignment gets knocked out a bit and you end up with some toe out on the rear like I had until this morning, it can really be a hairy beast to drive.
Part throttle in the wet on a 90 degree turn would send the back end out.
Oh and AP1 9000rpm for the win.
I often change up between 8200 and 8500 when "pushing on", and it's always nice to know there's a few more revs to play with when I want them. In an AP2 that would be at fuel cut off every time and I'd end up bouncing off the limiter too often.
I don't like it when an engine feels like its making its best power, then boom, limiter kicks in. I remember a ride in an ep3 type r feeling like this. The ap1 however makes its best power by 8300, so you only need those last few hundreds if say you are nearing a braking zone, where it would be detrimental to change up to the next gear before getting on the brakes, or maybe during an overtake. Or just because we can ;-)
04-30-2017, 06:38 AM
#14
Thread Starter
I agree about the lack of VSA being a good thing from an enthusiast point of view, but not the lack of power part.
While the S certainly has a low amount of torque, especially below 6000rpm, it all depends on the alignment of a particular vehicle. In my experience you can have alignment settings at the low range of what's recommended by Honda(very little rear camber and toe) and the car can be really tail happy, especially in the wet in 1st and 2nd and with the original bridgestones.
For a buyer who has no idea about alignment settings and is new to rear drive, that VSA could potentially pull them out of the shit if it works properly.
if your alignment gets knocked out a bit and you end up with some toe out on the rear like I had until this morning, it can really be a hairy beast to drive.
Part throttle in the wet on a 90 degree turn would send the back end out.
Oh and AP1 9000rpm for the win.
I often change up between 8200 and 8500 when "pushing on", and it's always nice to know there's a few more revs to play with when I want them. In an AP2 that would be at fuel cut off every time and I'd end up bouncing off the limiter too often.
I don't like it when an engine feels like its making its best power, then boom, limiter kicks in. I remember a ride in an ep3 type r feeling like this. The ap1 however makes its best power by 8300, so you only need those last few hundreds if say you are nearing a braking zone, where it would be detrimental to change up to the next gear before getting on the brakes, or maybe during an overtake. Or just because we can ;-)
While the S certainly has a low amount of torque, especially below 6000rpm, it all depends on the alignment of a particular vehicle. In my experience you can have alignment settings at the low range of what's recommended by Honda(very little rear camber and toe) and the car can be really tail happy, especially in the wet in 1st and 2nd and with the original bridgestones.
For a buyer who has no idea about alignment settings and is new to rear drive, that VSA could potentially pull them out of the shit if it works properly.
if your alignment gets knocked out a bit and you end up with some toe out on the rear like I had until this morning, it can really be a hairy beast to drive.
Part throttle in the wet on a 90 degree turn would send the back end out.
Oh and AP1 9000rpm for the win.
I often change up between 8200 and 8500 when "pushing on", and it's always nice to know there's a few more revs to play with when I want them. In an AP2 that would be at fuel cut off every time and I'd end up bouncing off the limiter too often.
I don't like it when an engine feels like its making its best power, then boom, limiter kicks in. I remember a ride in an ep3 type r feeling like this. The ap1 however makes its best power by 8300, so you only need those last few hundreds if say you are nearing a braking zone, where it would be detrimental to change up to the next gear before getting on the brakes, or maybe during an overtake. Or just because we can ;-)
Now that you mention the alignment settings - man I think my AP1 settings at the rear worked against me at some points. Spun off while taking a 90 degree turn from a stop street with light throttle in the wet. I just managed to catch it back/get traction before running off onto the grass lol... I have a boosted S2K and the funny thing is, THAT HAPPENED WHILE MY BOOST WAS OFFLINE, no kidding. My SC belt had slipped off at the time and I was taking it to my friend at Honda one morning to get it put back on...other times I would push the limit of grip on corners well into boost and closing on 9000rpm and she'd stick like glue to the road. Granted my tyres are...bad (unevenly worn MY01 up front, 70 percent thread Firestone TZ700 at the rear all chosen by previous owner). Going to upgrade to proper Potenza RE's soon.
I hear you. Most of the time I drive spiritedly as that's why I bought the S2K so seeing (and hearing it scream and the blower whistle) to 9000 and the red flashes is a common occurrence for me
At other times though I just cruise. It's fun and exciting in either scenario.
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