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Alignment fast road setup

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Old 08-14-2018, 05:47 AM
  #21  

 
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Originally Posted by nobby8628
+!

defo go for the same tyre compound all round and get a good geosetup and go from there. certainly if me i would have the potenza's on the rear for obvious reasons
best place to start and certainly a good benchmark before you start looking at other options!

but your call at end of day
You can't get the Potenza's any more, Pilot sport 4 all round would be your best bet, nice stiff sidewalls.
Old 08-21-2018, 10:16 AM
  #22  
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car went in for said alignment today, the guy rings me up and says, I was wrong when I said it would all be fine - turns out every adjustment bolt is frozen!
balls.
Hes saying best bet is to get full spoon bushes set (about £800) then bolts from Honda £150ish then he thinks 25ish hours to do it all. So looking about £2k!!!

tbf, he did say it’s quite close to factory spec (not sure where it is out) - said wouldn’t really notice a difference unless tracking it or pushing it really hard (I’m prob not a good enough driver to drive it that hard anyway).

Pretty gutted though as thought i was getting it all sorted all sorted and preserved for £150.

Anyways, don’t really want polybushes would rather rubber. Am I really looking at 2k for everything if I was to take it to a specialist like gravity or tgm?
Old 08-21-2018, 10:33 AM
  #23  

 
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Originally Posted by Oilslick
car went in for said alignment today, the guy rings me up and says, I was wrong when I said it would all be fine - turns out every adjustment bolt is frozen!
balls.
Hes saying best bet is to get full spoon bushes set (about £800) then bolts from Honda £150ish then he thinks 25ish hours to do it all. So looking about £2k!!!

tbf, he did say it’s quite close to factory spec (not sure where it is out) - said wouldn’t really notice a difference unless tracking it or pushing it really hard (I’m prob not a good enough driver to drive it that hard anyway).

Pretty gutted though as thought i was getting it all sorted all sorted and preserved for £150.

Anyways, don’t really want polybushes would rather rubber. Am I really looking at 2k for everything if I was to take it to a specialist like gravity or tgm?
25 hours ??????? And I would buy OEM parts all the way around for this and not pay more money for the name Spoon.
Old 08-21-2018, 11:51 AM
  #24  

 
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post up your print out & maybe leave it alone..
Old 08-22-2018, 03:55 AM
  #25  

 
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Originally Posted by Oilslick
car went in for said alignment today, the guy rings me up and says, I was wrong when I said it would all be fine - turns out every adjustment bolt is frozen!
balls.
Hes saying best bet is to get full spoon bushes set (about £800) then bolts from Honda £150ish then he thinks 25ish hours to do it all. So looking about £2k!!!

tbf, he did say it’s quite close to factory spec (not sure where it is out) - said wouldn’t really notice a difference unless tracking it or pushing it really hard (I’m prob not a good enough driver to drive it that hard anyway).

Pretty gutted though as thought i was getting it all sorted all sorted and preserved for £150.

Anyways, don’t really want polybushes would rather rubber. Am I really looking at 2k for everything if I was to take it to a specialist like gravity or tgm?
As Honda don't sell the bushes separately, you have to buy the wishbones that's eight at £400 each plus all the other bolts etc. I wouldn't go that way. Do a search see what others have done and with who, and how much. Talk to the specialists that have been used by members, I'm thinking £1500 to £2000 got get them sorted permanently.
Old 08-22-2018, 10:03 AM
  #26  

 
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Bummer that they dont sell those separately from honda!
Old 08-22-2018, 04:40 PM
  #27  

 
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tops are not adjustable,so -4
spoon or mugen for compliance are well priced tbh..
think all apart from rear lower front are available<and that's not an adjustable component >
Old 08-22-2018, 08:42 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by engifineer
25 hours ??????? And I would buy OEM parts all the way around for this and not pay more money for the name Spoon.
He's service booking the hours. The job doesn't take that much time with the proper tools, even if everything is seized.
Old 08-22-2018, 11:01 PM
  #29  
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Here's a suggestion.
  1. Find out which bolts are seized and therefore which arms actually need to be fixed, as noodels says, it may only be the lower 4 arms.
  2. Get Si at Hendy to price you up replacement arms, as well as bolts (which you'll need whether you decide to replace arms or just the bushes).
  3. Compare the cost of getting replacement arms vs the cost of new bushes
  4. Compare the cost of labour to replace the arms vs the cost of replacing the bushes.
It'd be interesting to see a comparison.

Here's a thread I posted about the front bits (note that I replaced all 8 arms). It's also possibly worth exploring importing from the USA as the prices were about half (including import duty & VAT).

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-irela...t-help-971656/

Last edited by lovegroova; 08-22-2018 at 11:05 PM.
Old 08-23-2018, 05:48 AM
  #30  

 
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This is how mine was set-up by Centre of Gravity on the standard suspension:
Front:
Left: Toe: zero, Camber: -0°57', Caster: +6°20', Corner weight: 309kg
Right: Toe: zero, Camber: -0°57', Caster +6°19', Corner weight: 300kg
Rear:
Left: Toe +0°25', Camber: -1°31', Corner weight: 331kg
Right: Toe +0°25', Camber: -1°30', Corner weight: 311kg
Total weight (which includes 9kg of additional fuel ballast, as tank was below half): 1251kg

After the fitment of the Ohlins (and thanks to CoG having greased everything), two years later I was able to adjust it thus:
Front:
Left: Toe: zero, Camber -2°, Caster: Unchanged; Corner weight: 316kg
Right: Toe: zero, Camber -2°, Caster: Unchanged; Corner weight: 313Kg
Rear:
Left: Toe +0°7', Camber -2°, Corner weight: 321.5kg
Right: Toe +0° 7', Camber -2°, Corner weight 328kg

Total weight corner weight: 1278kg This time ALL fluids were to the max (I had just brimmed both the fuel and the washer bottle (this part due to the weather at the time)), where before it was measured on a half tank of fuel.

The UK settings for the cars normally have a lot of rear toe, which makes the car more stable initially (inducing understeer), but gives the car a worse snap oversteer when the limit is reached. Having less toe makes it less stable (more keen to over-steer), but the break-away when this happens is more progressive.

Incidentally, my car is on a square set-up (245/40 AD08Rs all round).

This is how it handles in the wet with the above settings:


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