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UK & Ireland S2000 CommunityDiscussions related to the S2000, its ownership and enthusiasm for it in the UK and Ireland. Including FAQs, and technical questions.
new discs and pads went in/on over xmas.. (alarm is behaving still!)
i'd noticed nothing in light use and the retaining screws required some work with a persuadertron 5000 to remove but the old red stuff pads came out like this
not quite factory
so dixcel pads in with stoptech discs all round (i wouldnt bother with the rears in hindsight), castrol CRF fluid based on RayDave's experienced (read owd bugger, wiley heed or race driver turned ace mechanic depending on your perception - he's actually all 3 ) advice
the system now lacks air thanks to a gravity bleed, i would heartily recommend this approach to the lone @ home (i could not convince my 6 yr old to help) spanner monkey, sucking out the dirty shat from the reservoir before you start is a must, it was rank
wideband sensor has died again.. they dont seem to last very long
other than that she's going well. I am pondering putting the Skunk2 back on this car from my NA and using this exhaust on that car.. this one made good power on that and i still have the maps for full nutter mode
they destroy discs and are noisy so swapped back to road pads, red stuff again. much calmer.
i get the NA one back soon, will post up pics of that. i then plan to put this back to ultra obnoxious trim with the skunk and its map with decat.. new wideband at the same time and i want to fit a bettee catch can which is not vented so it stinks less..
she's looking alright for 20.. still not fitted the wideband or swapped exhausts. without the HP alarm she can sit for c10 days without a flat battery..
apparently a lot of brake dust is disc..with Dixcel Z more so.. the car sat for a few weeks in June as i dont drive it in Monsoons and this happened
Have you tried IronX or similar to take off the iron corrosion. It works very well.
Its common to get embedded iron particles in your paintwork or wheels nowadays. As cars have got heavier, brake pads have got harder to give them more longevity (and not just on performance cars) which means more brake disc wear.
Brake discs on modern cars will typically need changing 1 set of discs for every two sets of pads and all the iron dust from the discs has to go somewhere!
Have you tried IronX or similar to take off the iron corrosion. It works very well.
Its common to get embedded iron particles in your paintwork or wheels nowadays. As cars have got heavier, brake pads have got harder to give them more longevity (and not just on performance cars) which means more brake disc wear.
Brake discs on modern cars will typically need changing 1 set of discs for every two sets of pads and all the iron dust from the discs has to go somewhere!
tah dude, will take a look. my wheel cleaner didnt touch it
they are stock ultra shit rotas, painted..i cba to refurb so keep looking for wheels
anyway.. i want some protection for the arches so did what Ray hinted at
prep.. you NEED this
there are 3 bungs on each sill you can pop out with a trim tool, this gave me full length access with the 60cm flexi hose thing which came with the little waxoyl sprayer..
its a bad design imo, the trigger is way too easy to press by accident and boom, you get a light oiling
but it works well other than that, you need warm waxoyl, thinned with white spirit (today's temps helped, it was 30C!)
its messy, this was an accidental discharge.. ahem. it wipes off but you probably take polish etc with it so a good clean with bug and tar gunk and then a wash followed by new polish and wax for this one
the key things i learnt are
avoid the hair trigger like the plague!
feed the lance through your grip to avoid it 'flicking' as it comes out of each hole
wear gloves and goggles
prepare to get messy - have plenty of kitchen roll and white spirit handy
the floor sheet is a must, loads poured out of the drivers side sill where i assume a ding has loosened things and it will come out of the bung holes too
boot is easy if you already have no carpet in, you can do the arches from there too, this is vital given how the drains overflow, you really want good coverage at the rear of the sill and front of the arch
12-31-2018, 06:49 AM
) advice
