Big thread for idle / hesitation / kangeroo probs!
03-03-2007, 01:33 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Big thread for idle / hesitation / kangeroo probs!
Hi all,
I see a lot of posts on this, and get a lot of PM's about these type of problems so I thought maybe making this a sticky thread would filter some of the problems out.
As idle / hesitation / kangerooing / misfire problems and misfires seem to be a common problem on the S2000, and indeed on most cars, I thought I would construct a thread to aid people in diagnosing their problems.
Aside from an actual problems listed below, these type of problems can just be a passing phase. Your ECU has to cope with changing ambient temps and pressures, and can simply be adjusting. If your problem persists or gets worse then read on....
All this info is based on MY00-05 cars - the 06 has some differences in its setup which im not clued up on (drive by wire throttle etc)
Idle and hesitation / kangeroo problems can be caused by the following:
Loose throttle cable
Failed or failing MAP sensor
Failed or failing O2 / lambda sensor
Air leaks (on the vacuum side)
Blocked throttle lines
Dirty throttle butterfly
Blocked air filter
ISCV / AIC (idle speed control valve) misbehaving
One person (simon prelude) also had a seized aircon pulley which cause a bad idle on his
Hesitation / Kangeroo!
This is a common complaint. You have been driving the car a while, you stop at a junction waiting to pull out, you see your chance, boot the throttle and not a lot happens
Frustrating at best, dangerous at worst if you roll out in front of someone!
It has been said that the car will kangeroo becuase of the light flywheel - I dont subscribe to that view. No car ive ever owned does it this bad, and the ECU should easily be able to cope with the flywheel weight. The kangerooing I believe is to be ether IAT (intake air temp) or MAP (manifold absolute pressure) heatsoak. I have some logs from my PLX when the car was kangerooing and there was basically no fuel going in, and some very screwy readings from both sensors.
In my case I bought a new MAP sensor and it was fine again, while others have cured it with intake snorkels and cooling mods. An intake snorkle is a good idea anyway as it ensures the airbox only takes air from outside the engine bay.
Some people decide to live with it by revving the car before pulling away, which effectively allows the engine to gulp a lot of warm air and clear the problem.
Misfires are slightly different but can have some similar causes (more often than not its the MAP sensor if above 6000 rpm):
Failed or failing MAP sensor
Blocked injectors
Damaged coil packs
Worn or damaged spark plugs
Valve clearances
Damaged Crank Position Sensor
Corroded ECU wires - this has been found on a number of cars and isnt easy to detect or fix!
Failed or failing O2 or lambda sensor
Air leaks (on the vacuum side)
One thing to note regarding misfire codes is that they can be diagnosed quite nicely by doing the following. If you have an error code on cylinder 1 and 3, then you can find out if its a coil pack by swapping them around (noting where you put them!) and see if the fault follows it. Valve clearance issues and blocked injectors seem to be the main culprit of misfire codes....
There are many others faults which can crop up, but these tend to be the main ones. This guide should either identify one of these problems as a cause, but if not then at least you have narrowed it down and post up what issues you have!
Ok now how to check what is causing the problem, to be checked in this order.... If your car is hesitating, idling badly or misfiring, then the following should be checked, and if you still get stuck then post up - but it would be helpful to check these first!
Have you got a CEL - check engine light?
This is the amber light on your dash that you can see when you turn the ignition on. The CEL is a bloody great invention and can be your best clue at diagnosing a problem. Too many people just reset it and dont get the code...
Should the ECU decide something is wrong, it will light up to tell you there is a problem. These codes can be decoded by a dealer, normally for a charge, or you can get ECU code readers to plug into the diagnostic OBDII port under the passenger side trim. PM if you need a code reader. Quite often you can have a fault with the and no CEL will appear but getting these codes is vital in diagnosing the problem. If the CEL is flashing - DO NOT DRIVE ANYWHERE! If it's just lit then I would say you can drive with caution and get the error code as soon as you can. Some codes will go away once the ECU is happy again, often within about 50 miles. Occasionally with all the things the ECU has to deal with, you may get the odd false CEL which will go away
All codes are stored in the ECU even when the light has gone out.
The list of fault codes is here:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=378792
The ECU reset!
This leads nicely onto the ECU reset... Dont reset the ECU until you have extracted any codes from it. If the car is misbehaving, an ECU reset can often put things right. The ECU does not learn your driving style, but it does store fuelling trends / trims and idle info etc. By resetting the ECU, it wipes its fuelling trim memory and idle control.
My spin on this is to get the car warm then park up. Switch the car off and pull the ECU fuse shown below for about 10 mins (this removes power to the ECU) Replace it, start the car up then go and find a long stretch of road and give it redline through the gears. The ECU will quickly learn where to set its fuelling and ignition timing. The next step is to get the idle sorted. You will notice the car really struggles to idle and cuts out. To relearn, park up and let the car go through 3 cycles of the cooling fan coming on and off. its then set. It will eventaully learn anyway, but its quicker using the cooling fan method.
Fuse can be found behind the fuse cover inside the footwell:
If you reset and your problem persists then onto the following...
Ok, question time! These are things to check and I have tried to put them into the easiest things first.
1) Have you just had a service or added a modification to the car?
Its quite common that something may have been nocked or not re-connected which will casue you a few problems! Have a double check that all is well uner the bonnet. If a sensor is disconnected it will generally give a CEL. Have any of the vac hoses been pulled off? there are bloody loads of them on the S2000! Quite easy for one to come loose.
2) Is the throttle cable taught?
Notice I didnt use the word tight! The cable seems to slacken off on these cars, which means when you touch the throttle, its not actually opening the butterfly, so the engine doesnt try and pick up. The cable can be adjusted using the nuts on the arm shown below. It should have a 1/4" play in it to allow for temperature adjustment. Info here:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...pic=120410&hl=
3) Is the air filter blocked?
Unlikely but worth a check! Unclip the airbox lid and check there arent any small animals, leaves, homeless people or tools left in there
4) The MAP sensor...
The MAP basically tells the ECU how much fuel to put in. They can get gummed up with oil mist etc, as they are after the filter. They tend to be the cause problems with misfires while on VTEC, but also can be the cuse of hesitation / kangerooing. Many have had success by giving the sensor a gentle tap - so this can be worth a try. Its quite difficult to determine if this is broken without removing it and bench testing it to see if it gives a linear output as you bring up the pressure. A new one can be had quite cheaply from HardTopGuy in the US.
How to tap it
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=209708
5)Air leaks...
Can be atotal bast to find but they can cause your idle a lot of problems! Normally a problem after a service or a modification where you might have nocked something off, which is then a lot easier to spot. An air leak can be a problem anywhere after the throttle body, right back to the exhaust, just before the lambda sensor. Good luck finding it!
6) Plugs
Dodgy plugs can give a similar problem to the above one with injectors. There have been a number of issues with Denso plugs (tips coming off) so my advice would be to stick with NGK... Again, plugs can be moved from one slot to another as a fault finding task.
7) Throttle butterfly / vac line cleaning
Quite a good practice anyway but this can cause some rough running. See this thread here for some help on cleaning these bits!
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...0225&hl=gizzard
8) Is the car using a lot more fuel than normal?
If the lambda or O2 sensor (not these are one and the smae thing!) is damaged then this can be the cause - the sensor will fail to a low voltage which tells the ECU its running lean - so the ECU pours more fuel in to try and compensate. To check this your best bet is go to a dealer with an ECU monitor and ask them to look at the lambda voltage at idle. It should slowly bounce back and forth from 0- about 0.9 volts. if its broken it will either be very sluggish, or just not move at all! if this is the case then buy a new one and reset the ECU. You could also get an emissions check from an MOT place, and if it fails this will indicate the o2 is at fault. You can buy monitors from people like Greddy (Infometer) or Apexi etc and can be useful!
9) Valve clearances
Many people have had misfire codes on the ECU from valve clearances which are out of tolerance. The clearances can be checked yourself, or by Honda or equivalent competent dealer. THere are 2 DIY threads here:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=93197
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=245555
10) Injectors
A lot of people have recently been having misfire problems, the root cause of which appears to have been blocked injectors. If you have a misfire code on one cylinder, you could test it by removing an injector to a different cylinder to see if the problem moves to that cylinder. A blocked or non firing injector will cause a misfire as the associated cylinder will not be getting any / enough fuel. In terms of replacement, you could buy one from a breaker and get it flow tested / refurbished, buy a new one from a dealer, or buy an aftermarket one (Spoon etc). There are quite a few outfits who will flowtest and refurbish your injectors but the choice is yours as to whether you just go and buy new ones...
11) Lots of weird CEL faults?
There have been quite a few reports of reccuring CEL codes popping up and general car misbehaviour, caused by corossion of the ECU wires. I think at least 2 UK owners have had this problem. Can be checked by resetting the ECU, getting the car stable at idle, then wiggling the wires to the ECU in the engine bay, or under the passenger footwell.
Engine management stuff
Next part is more for info, for those who are interested, to try and explain how some of the components uder the bonnet function, which will help you understand why the car will misbehave.
Attatched to a modern engine are various sensors which all feed into the ECU. The ECU lives under the passenger footwell as shown below. All the sensor wires form into a loom, which comes through the bulk head into the ECU.
The engine sensors mostly work on sending voltage outputs to the ECU, which allows it to determine things like how much fuel to put in, how much ignition timing to add or subtract, and to diagnose faults. Its an extremely complex device and never fails to amaze me!
The main sensors are as follows:
MAP - Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor
This is the sensor that gets the most attention on the S2000 It lives on top of the inlet manifold as pictured, and is a v important bit of kit. The ECU uses this as an indication of engine load, and will use it to decide how much fuel to put in.
Some cars use MAF (mass air flow) to tell the ECU how much work the engine is doing, but we use a MAP. Within the ECU are fuelling lookup tables, so for a given MAP voltage (combined with inputs from the TPS, knock, AIT and coolant temp) the ECU known what amount of fuel to put in for optimal fuelling. It would seem that these sensors, like any, can have a limited life and I know replacing mine really imporved the behaviour of the car. By now you can probably guess why im not a fan of this MAP whack business! You can also probably appreciate why the car can hesitate when pulling away or misbehave on VTEC if this sensor has a fault... A failing MAP very rarely seems to give a CEL.
O2 or Lambda sensor
The S2000 has 2 of these. One in the exhaust manifold and one in the catalytic convertor. The one in the cat has no input other than to tell you if it thinks the 1st one is causing fuelling problems. The one in the manifold is the more important one for us, as it has a big input into fuelling and idle control. The sensor is there to tell the ECU how rich or lean the fuelling is based on oxygen content, so it feeds back a signal to the ECU, from 0-1v volt, 0 being lean and 1 being rich. On our, and many cars the sensor is heated and takes about a minute to become live when you start the car. If your issues (idle etc) happen before this sensor is warm and active, its not the O2 sensor which is at fault.
At idle or cruise the ECU tries to achieve "stoichiometric mixture" which is 14.7 parts of air to 1 part fuel for normal pump fuel. To do this the ECU bounces back and forth either side of this figure to try and get to optimum.
This sensor is running all the time but only controls the fuelling when your are at idle or part throttle / cruise. Once you put your foot down a bit, the ECU purely iuses the MAP sensor to dictate its fuelling - and the O2 becomes passive. This is where the fixed fuelling lookup tables come it!
When the O2 sensor is being used, it is called "closed loop" fuelling, and when the MAP alone is being used it is called "open loop" fuelling. A broken O2 will often give a CEL.
TPS - Throtle position sensor
This sensor is bolted to the other side of your throttle body and has a rotary spring inside it, as pictured below. When you
have your foot off the throttle, the throttle butterfly is closed, and the TPS will give a voltage of about 0v to the ECU. When fully open, the spring turns and the resistance changes in the sensor and it will go to around 5v. The ECU uses the position of the TPS for various functions.
IAT - Air Intake Temperature sensor
This beasty provides input into the ECU for fuelling control too. The problem with just using manifold pressure to tell how much air is being used, is that the volume of air changes depending on ambient temps. So on a how day the air is less dense
than a cold day. By adding this input into the ECU it will help judge the air volume right, therefore the fuelling will be more precise The IAT is the white sensor plugged into the intake manifold, between the 3rd and 4th manifold branch.
I will add more on sensors later - tired now!
There is also some great DIY info here:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=108435
Disclaimer - Im not responsible for any damage or injury caused by you or anyone acting on this information so its taken at your own risk! Im not a trained auto technician - just an enthusiast trying to help
Edit - now added some misfire info.
I see a lot of posts on this, and get a lot of PM's about these type of problems so I thought maybe making this a sticky thread would filter some of the problems out.
As idle / hesitation / kangerooing / misfire problems and misfires seem to be a common problem on the S2000, and indeed on most cars, I thought I would construct a thread to aid people in diagnosing their problems.
Aside from an actual problems listed below, these type of problems can just be a passing phase. Your ECU has to cope with changing ambient temps and pressures, and can simply be adjusting. If your problem persists or gets worse then read on....
All this info is based on MY00-05 cars - the 06 has some differences in its setup which im not clued up on (drive by wire throttle etc)
Idle and hesitation / kangeroo problems can be caused by the following:
Loose throttle cable
Failed or failing MAP sensor
Failed or failing O2 / lambda sensor
Air leaks (on the vacuum side)
Blocked throttle lines
Dirty throttle butterfly
Blocked air filter
ISCV / AIC (idle speed control valve) misbehaving
One person (simon prelude) also had a seized aircon pulley which cause a bad idle on his
Hesitation / Kangeroo!
This is a common complaint. You have been driving the car a while, you stop at a junction waiting to pull out, you see your chance, boot the throttle and not a lot happens
Frustrating at best, dangerous at worst if you roll out in front of someone! It has been said that the car will kangeroo becuase of the light flywheel - I dont subscribe to that view. No car ive ever owned does it this bad, and the ECU should easily be able to cope with the flywheel weight. The kangerooing I believe is to be ether IAT (intake air temp) or MAP (manifold absolute pressure) heatsoak. I have some logs from my PLX when the car was kangerooing and there was basically no fuel going in, and some very screwy readings from both sensors.
In my case I bought a new MAP sensor and it was fine again, while others have cured it with intake snorkels and cooling mods. An intake snorkle is a good idea anyway as it ensures the airbox only takes air from outside the engine bay.
Some people decide to live with it by revving the car before pulling away, which effectively allows the engine to gulp a lot of warm air and clear the problem.
Misfires are slightly different but can have some similar causes (more often than not its the MAP sensor if above 6000 rpm):
Failed or failing MAP sensor
Blocked injectors
Damaged coil packs
Worn or damaged spark plugs
Valve clearances
Damaged Crank Position Sensor
Corroded ECU wires - this has been found on a number of cars and isnt easy to detect or fix!
Failed or failing O2 or lambda sensor
Air leaks (on the vacuum side)
One thing to note regarding misfire codes is that they can be diagnosed quite nicely by doing the following. If you have an error code on cylinder 1 and 3, then you can find out if its a coil pack by swapping them around (noting where you put them!) and see if the fault follows it. Valve clearance issues and blocked injectors seem to be the main culprit of misfire codes....
There are many others faults which can crop up, but these tend to be the main ones. This guide should either identify one of these problems as a cause, but if not then at least you have narrowed it down and post up what issues you have!
Ok now how to check what is causing the problem, to be checked in this order.... If your car is hesitating, idling badly or misfiring, then the following should be checked, and if you still get stuck then post up - but it would be helpful to check these first!
Have you got a CEL - check engine light?
This is the amber light on your dash that you can see when you turn the ignition on. The CEL is a bloody great invention and can be your best clue at diagnosing a problem. Too many people just reset it and dont get the code...
Should the ECU decide something is wrong, it will light up to tell you there is a problem. These codes can be decoded by a dealer, normally for a charge, or you can get ECU code readers to plug into the diagnostic OBDII port under the passenger side trim. PM if you need a code reader. Quite often you can have a fault with the and no CEL will appear but getting these codes is vital in diagnosing the problem. If the CEL is flashing - DO NOT DRIVE ANYWHERE! If it's just lit then I would say you can drive with caution and get the error code as soon as you can. Some codes will go away once the ECU is happy again, often within about 50 miles. Occasionally with all the things the ECU has to deal with, you may get the odd false CEL which will go away
All codes are stored in the ECU even when the light has gone out.The list of fault codes is here:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=378792
The ECU reset!
This leads nicely onto the ECU reset... Dont reset the ECU until you have extracted any codes from it. If the car is misbehaving, an ECU reset can often put things right. The ECU does not learn your driving style, but it does store fuelling trends / trims and idle info etc. By resetting the ECU, it wipes its fuelling trim memory and idle control.
My spin on this is to get the car warm then park up. Switch the car off and pull the ECU fuse shown below for about 10 mins (this removes power to the ECU) Replace it, start the car up then go and find a long stretch of road and give it redline through the gears. The ECU will quickly learn where to set its fuelling and ignition timing. The next step is to get the idle sorted. You will notice the car really struggles to idle and cuts out. To relearn, park up and let the car go through 3 cycles of the cooling fan coming on and off. its then set. It will eventaully learn anyway, but its quicker using the cooling fan method.
Fuse can be found behind the fuse cover inside the footwell:
If you reset and your problem persists then onto the following...
Ok, question time! These are things to check and I have tried to put them into the easiest things first.
1) Have you just had a service or added a modification to the car?
Its quite common that something may have been nocked or not re-connected which will casue you a few problems! Have a double check that all is well uner the bonnet. If a sensor is disconnected it will generally give a CEL. Have any of the vac hoses been pulled off? there are bloody loads of them on the S2000! Quite easy for one to come loose.
2) Is the throttle cable taught?
Notice I didnt use the word tight! The cable seems to slacken off on these cars, which means when you touch the throttle, its not actually opening the butterfly, so the engine doesnt try and pick up. The cable can be adjusted using the nuts on the arm shown below. It should have a 1/4" play in it to allow for temperature adjustment. Info here:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...pic=120410&hl=
3) Is the air filter blocked?
Unlikely but worth a check! Unclip the airbox lid and check there arent any small animals, leaves, homeless people or tools left in there
4) The MAP sensor...
The MAP basically tells the ECU how much fuel to put in. They can get gummed up with oil mist etc, as they are after the filter. They tend to be the cause problems with misfires while on VTEC, but also can be the cuse of hesitation / kangerooing. Many have had success by giving the sensor a gentle tap - so this can be worth a try. Its quite difficult to determine if this is broken without removing it and bench testing it to see if it gives a linear output as you bring up the pressure. A new one can be had quite cheaply from HardTopGuy in the US.
How to tap it
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=209708
5)Air leaks...
Can be atotal bast to find but they can cause your idle a lot of problems! Normally a problem after a service or a modification where you might have nocked something off, which is then a lot easier to spot. An air leak can be a problem anywhere after the throttle body, right back to the exhaust, just before the lambda sensor. Good luck finding it!
6) Plugs
Dodgy plugs can give a similar problem to the above one with injectors. There have been a number of issues with Denso plugs (tips coming off) so my advice would be to stick with NGK... Again, plugs can be moved from one slot to another as a fault finding task.
7) Throttle butterfly / vac line cleaning
Quite a good practice anyway but this can cause some rough running. See this thread here for some help on cleaning these bits!
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...0225&hl=gizzard
8) Is the car using a lot more fuel than normal?
If the lambda or O2 sensor (not these are one and the smae thing!) is damaged then this can be the cause - the sensor will fail to a low voltage which tells the ECU its running lean - so the ECU pours more fuel in to try and compensate. To check this your best bet is go to a dealer with an ECU monitor and ask them to look at the lambda voltage at idle. It should slowly bounce back and forth from 0- about 0.9 volts. if its broken it will either be very sluggish, or just not move at all! if this is the case then buy a new one and reset the ECU. You could also get an emissions check from an MOT place, and if it fails this will indicate the o2 is at fault. You can buy monitors from people like Greddy (Infometer) or Apexi etc and can be useful!
9) Valve clearances
Many people have had misfire codes on the ECU from valve clearances which are out of tolerance. The clearances can be checked yourself, or by Honda or equivalent competent dealer. THere are 2 DIY threads here:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=93197
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=245555
10) Injectors
A lot of people have recently been having misfire problems, the root cause of which appears to have been blocked injectors. If you have a misfire code on one cylinder, you could test it by removing an injector to a different cylinder to see if the problem moves to that cylinder. A blocked or non firing injector will cause a misfire as the associated cylinder will not be getting any / enough fuel. In terms of replacement, you could buy one from a breaker and get it flow tested / refurbished, buy a new one from a dealer, or buy an aftermarket one (Spoon etc). There are quite a few outfits who will flowtest and refurbish your injectors but the choice is yours as to whether you just go and buy new ones...
11) Lots of weird CEL faults?
There have been quite a few reports of reccuring CEL codes popping up and general car misbehaviour, caused by corossion of the ECU wires. I think at least 2 UK owners have had this problem. Can be checked by resetting the ECU, getting the car stable at idle, then wiggling the wires to the ECU in the engine bay, or under the passenger footwell.
Engine management stuff
Next part is more for info, for those who are interested, to try and explain how some of the components uder the bonnet function, which will help you understand why the car will misbehave.
Attatched to a modern engine are various sensors which all feed into the ECU. The ECU lives under the passenger footwell as shown below. All the sensor wires form into a loom, which comes through the bulk head into the ECU.
The engine sensors mostly work on sending voltage outputs to the ECU, which allows it to determine things like how much fuel to put in, how much ignition timing to add or subtract, and to diagnose faults. Its an extremely complex device and never fails to amaze me!
The main sensors are as follows:
MAP - Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor
This is the sensor that gets the most attention on the S2000
It lives on top of the inlet manifold as pictured, and is a v important bit of kit. The ECU uses this as an indication of engine load, and will use it to decide how much fuel to put in. Some cars use MAF (mass air flow) to tell the ECU how much work the engine is doing, but we use a MAP. Within the ECU are fuelling lookup tables, so for a given MAP voltage (combined with inputs from the TPS, knock, AIT and coolant temp) the ECU known what amount of fuel to put in for optimal fuelling. It would seem that these sensors, like any, can have a limited life and I know replacing mine really imporved the behaviour of the car. By now you can probably guess why im not a fan of this MAP whack business! You can also probably appreciate why the car can hesitate when pulling away or misbehave on VTEC if this sensor has a fault... A failing MAP very rarely seems to give a CEL.
O2 or Lambda sensor
The S2000 has 2 of these. One in the exhaust manifold and one in the catalytic convertor. The one in the cat has no input other than to tell you if it thinks the 1st one is causing fuelling problems. The one in the manifold is the more important one for us, as it has a big input into fuelling and idle control. The sensor is there to tell the ECU how rich or lean the fuelling is based on oxygen content, so it feeds back a signal to the ECU, from 0-1v volt, 0 being lean and 1 being rich. On our, and many cars the sensor is heated and takes about a minute to become live when you start the car. If your issues (idle etc) happen before this sensor is warm and active, its not the O2 sensor which is at fault.
At idle or cruise the ECU tries to achieve "stoichiometric mixture" which is 14.7 parts of air to 1 part fuel for normal pump fuel. To do this the ECU bounces back and forth either side of this figure to try and get to optimum.
This sensor is running all the time but only controls the fuelling when your are at idle or part throttle / cruise. Once you put your foot down a bit, the ECU purely iuses the MAP sensor to dictate its fuelling - and the O2 becomes passive. This is where the fixed fuelling lookup tables come it!
When the O2 sensor is being used, it is called "closed loop" fuelling, and when the MAP alone is being used it is called "open loop" fuelling. A broken O2 will often give a CEL.
TPS - Throtle position sensor
This sensor is bolted to the other side of your throttle body and has a rotary spring inside it, as pictured below. When you
have your foot off the throttle, the throttle butterfly is closed, and the TPS will give a voltage of about 0v to the ECU. When fully open, the spring turns and the resistance changes in the sensor and it will go to around 5v. The ECU uses the position of the TPS for various functions.
IAT - Air Intake Temperature sensor
This beasty provides input into the ECU for fuelling control too. The problem with just using manifold pressure to tell how much air is being used, is that the volume of air changes depending on ambient temps. So on a how day the air is less dense
than a cold day. By adding this input into the ECU it will help judge the air volume right, therefore the fuelling will be more precise The IAT is the white sensor plugged into the intake manifold, between the 3rd and 4th manifold branch.
I will add more on sensors later - tired now!
There is also some great DIY info here:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=108435
Disclaimer - Im not responsible for any damage or injury caused by you or anyone acting on this information so its taken at your own risk! Im not a trained auto technician - just an enthusiast trying to help
Edit - now added some misfire info.
03-03-2007, 01:42 PM
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Ah yes, will correct that (emission control). Need to differentaite between primary and secondary too.
Glad you found it useful though
MB
Glad you found it useful though
MB
03-03-2007, 02:16 PM
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks all, hope it proves useful - I will keep tweaking it.
Andy - I drunk so much last night I couldnt face going out tonight. Laptop, Irn Bru and bag of Cheesy Poofs for me tonight
MB
Andy - I drunk so much last night I couldnt face going out tonight. Laptop, Irn Bru and bag of Cheesy Poofs for me tonight
MB
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03-03-2007, 02:42 PM
#9
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Originally Posted by Dark Blue Mark,Mar 3 2007, 11:16 PM
Thanks all, hope it proves useful - I will keep tweaking it.
Andy - I drunk so much last night I couldnt face going out tonight. Laptop, Irn Bru and mag of Cheesy Poofs for me tonight
MB
Andy - I drunk so much last night I couldnt face going out tonight. Laptop, Irn Bru and mag of Cheesy Poofs for me tonight
MB
Russ.
