mr-pitts

Ive got a 2.2 crank,although its still in the car at the moment.Im replacing all the internal components so ive got a brand new oem 2.2 crank to go in.Im having mine honed/bored out to 88mm as its a Benson sleeved block thats only done a few hundred miles on it.

CHIPPO

Mr Pitts, well its not my engine its my sons , and he has to make the decisions , i dare say he might read your comments.

We will see

MB

This is like a 1 way thread

Get him on here

CHIPPO

Right block back from Gosnay , SG cast iron liners fitted. Bored to 87mm once the interference fit liners were pushed into a shoulder.

head had a minimal 3,5 thou skim to ensure its flat and that the head will hold the liners in tight.

so toby is now awaiting delivery of goodies to fit !!!!!!

noodels

SG are they a spun ductile type,been looking at Darton dry type as better £s than the MID wet type.
Also using the OEM rods is doable too using BC bushing as will keep costs down.
Thought about JE <F>type pistons Asymmetric with offset pin though may rattle from cold <a non Turbo>application piston.or a CP full type ?
Be interesting to see what parts are going in this build

CHIPPO

Noodles , yes they are spun Cast, SG spereroidial graphite , is ductile, its the stuff many cranks are cast from. Nice little balls of graphite , no sharp bits to propagate cracks and hence incredibly tough stuff. Gosnay fit these all the time into lots of Ford based racing engines, they are very similar to Darton dry liners, £834 supplied and fitted with a couple of helicoils where the engine mounts fit , slight tear out when we removed the mounts,

I believe Toby has ordered new CP pistons to give slightly lower compression for turbo application. cant remember what rods , he didn't want to re-use the originals as having gone down the road of a rebuild it seemed silly to re-fit the old ones which might be suspect , i did suggest getting them inspected.

i think Funtimefrankie used Darton dry liners in his engine , when I spoke to Darton the dry liners were about £350 + P & P + tax from the US , although Gosnay will supply and fit them as well , more expensive with no benefit.

so back to the process , the old bores are bored down to a step , the liners are interference fit and pushed in tight to the step, then bored and cross hatch honed to your spec , in this case OEM 87mm , the top of the block and liners are them skimmed as one to give a flat deck , as I said they only took a few thou of as the deck was true and flat , this just to get the liners level with the deck.

next job , remeasure the crank journals for new shells , and check thrust so we can order the correct bearings , although i suspect all these measurements will be well within OEM tolerances judging by the condition of the journals , but new shells will be fitted in any case.

i meat to discuss the oil pump , not sure what's he is doing about this yet !

oh interesting , he has stripped the head , virtually all of the valve stem seals were damaged or split, valves ok and the spring retainers, other than one or two with odd marks on the underside.

he's busy polishing/cleaning the inlet and exhaust chambers and the head in general. I didn't think any of it was that bad actually , just a covering of carbon , not thick claggy stuff though.

CHIPPO

Progress slow , other things to do inc removal of off side rear hub on my car to replace wheel bearing , hub nut off in 2 secs with Toby,s Snap on rattle gun , drove out the inner ok with a socket and big hammer , however the other part wouldn't budge so it's going be pressed out at toby,s work this week .

We measured the old rod bores which were bang on and the new Brian Cower Rod bores which all matched , so there shouldn't be many issues there , we have now completed measuring all of the crank journals which are pretty bang on true and well with in the original tolerances, no ovalality at all . So Toby checked all the original codes on the crank, block and ladder so he can set about ordering the correct shells and trust bearings , which will no doubt be a right laugh asking a Honda dealer for 2 brown 3 reds and or what ever his list indicates .

One thing we did notice Mr Honda San at some point when building the engine allowed something to sit under rear main bearing shell, you can clearly see the dent in the housing and the out side diameter of the sheel , there was nothing in there when we stripped it down, so we presume when they fitted the crank and tightened it all down it would not turn and was stripped and refuted without the foreign body under the shell.




So so progress is slow but we will get there , lots of cleaning to do , Honda Bons sticks like shit to a blanket and it's all over the place !

CHIPPO

Over 7 tonnes to get that bearing out of the hub !

CHIPPO

So slow. Progress .

Toby has done a trial build of the crank into the block , using the original shells as they came out , to give himself a base set of dimensions to work from.

As can be seen the 5 journals are remarkably consistent across the crank and across the journals , clearances are between .001" and .0015" all well in side the recommended tolerances , so with new shells of the correct colour codes the clearances should be even better.

chrispayze

Interesting stuff, and as I haven't gone this deep into an engine myself, quick question about the measurements. Is there a predetermined size of putty or similar that you put on and clamp up? Then it spreads according to the clearance (more spread = tighter clearance)? Is that how it works?

Cheers
Chris