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Brake Upgrade

Old 09-11-2018, 02:54 AM
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Thanks rich,

I have done in the past but it means driving 4 hours to Dublin, leaving the car there for a week and needing to find a way to/from the garage so is a right PITA.
The joys of living in the sticks....the plus side is I have great roads and almost zero enforcement on my door step!
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Old 09-11-2018, 11:21 PM
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To each his own now, here is my 2p. I've found OEM setup to be somewhat lacking on track. Particularly in the rears. Same sized discs and pads as a Mazda MX5. Ideal for MX5s but not a car weighing 200kgs more, double the power and biased to rear brakes. If you are keen on track days, expect the rears to get exceptionally toasty, in excess of 300c. Prolonged heat will eventually damage the rear wheel bearings and hubs. Pretty pricey to put right aswell!

Start off with cooling for them as it's the cheapest to start with.. I made my own out of a bit of fibreglass, intake ducting and Henry hoover nozzles all for less than £20.

Good fluid like RBF600 as the fluid boils quite easily.

OEM pads and discs should be all right for occasional track use when used in conjunction with cooling. I'd consider some decent pads like DS2500s, PBS etc for not a lot more money and some good quality blank discs.

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Old 09-12-2018, 01:24 AM
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I'd echo what Tom says also, and perhaps not so much what Rich says...

Whilst the brakes are fine for the road speeds, I think you'll be left wanting on a track day. They're ok, but they're not strong, and as such when you repeatedly ask a lot of them (braking hard from quite big speeds) they soon get hot and overwhelmed. That said, if your trackdays are very infrequent and you're not hoping to be the last of the late brakers then I suspect you'll get by just fine.

I wanted better brakes and to keep oem wheels so sourced some Accord Type R front calipers (which fit) and give a modest step up in braking performance and pad size. I then set about routing cold air to cool them. Definitely don't underestimate the benefit of cooling brakes! If you can prevent them from overheating (be it stock or uprated) then not only will the performance not drop off, but you'll massively increase the life of the pad. I'm just back from a long weekend at the ring, did close to 200miles on track and got no brake fade and continued to feel strong. That was with DS2500 all round.
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Old 09-12-2018, 01:28 AM
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Originally Posted by foyler View Post
I only wish I had someone local who I could trust to properly dig into the set-up!!
If you're in Limerick you could have a go in mine or if in Cork i could get a mate to show you his. I had a proper go in his and its perfect for fast road; GY Eagle F1 A2 XL tyres, Dixel disks, Blueprint pads and working calipers all around. I have 4pots and larger floating disks rear but with the Uniroyals which are very squishy which ill change soon. I echo Toms1989 above but get everything working first, if you want to rebuild the brakes yourself you can borrow my spare calipers.

Originally Posted by richmc View Post
The Honda S2000 was designed and built as a sports car, therefor the OEM set up is as good as you need
Apart from the fact they robbed parts from other Hondas, pistons are EG Civic Vti sizes lol. I agree about the rears.
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Old 09-12-2018, 03:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Irish TuneR View Post
If you're in Limerick you could have a go in mine or if in Cork i could get a mate to show you his. I had a proper go in his and its perfect for fast road; GY Eagle F1 A2 XL tyres, Dixel disks, Blueprint pads and working calipers all around. I have 4pots and larger floating disks rear but with the Uniroyals which are very squishy which ill change soon. I echo Toms1989 above but get everything working first, if you want to rebuild the brakes yourself you can borrow my spare calipers.

Apart from the fact they robbed parts from other Hondas, pistons are EG Civic Vti sizes lol. I agree about the rears.
Even TVR "borrowed" the rear light clusters from the Vauxhall Cavalier, and turned them upside down. Door handles from the Morris Marina.
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Old 09-12-2018, 04:00 AM
  #16  
 
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To the guys above mentioning cooling systems for the brakes.

Have you got a how to or guide on these? I'd like something simple and cheap.

I know you can use a hole saw to cut into the dust shield and route into the front discs this way,

But what about the resr set up?
​​​​​​
Also more detail on the front set up would be appreciated...

Cheers
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Old 09-12-2018, 04:12 AM
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Originally Posted by lukeyboi89 View Post
To the guys above mentioning cooling systems for the brakes.

Have you got a how to or guide on these? I'd like something simple and cheap.

I know you can use a hole saw to cut into the dust shield and route into the front discs this way,

But what about the resr set up?
​​​​​​
Also more detail on the front set up would be appreciated...

Cheers
This is what I did for the fronts

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-irela...ducts-1178825/

This only bit of missing information is perhaps that there is a 2" flange welded to the back of the disc heat shield to take the other end of the ducting

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Old 09-12-2018, 09:44 AM
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Have you made the model for the ducts available S2Bray? I've got a 3D printer at work and I'd be very interested in printing myself a pair, assuming that it's large enough. Failing that, are you producing them?
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Old 09-12-2018, 10:27 AM
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If your brakes feel wooden, it is likely that the calipers (or at least the sliders) are partially-seized.

I had a partially-seized front, but a squirt of brake cleaner and a G-clamp to push the piston fully-in cured it.

If the pedal isn't firm, then it's worn discs, possibly master cylinder seal wear or even tired hoses.

However I would echo the 'track day late-braker' caveat; it makes the car surprisingly fast, for a couple of laps only.
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Old 09-12-2018, 01:42 PM
  #20  
 
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When I get round to it and feel the need,was going to use bass speaker ports for cooling ducts
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