Buying first S2000
01-14-2019, 06:53 AM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
I'm 23, I didn't think I could insure one if I'm being honest but turns out I can for £750.
All good advice, will definitely make a list of stuff to check and ask
All good advice, will definitely make a list of stuff to check and ask
01-14-2019, 07:05 AM
#12
vehicle stability control is for the Nancy brigade who fear the power of a 2 litre engine could pose a health risk.....to hell with that malarkey, be a boy racer, I'm in my 40's and loving it! ;-) my advice, get a 2004/2005...far cheaper road tax too. Meaning you can buy some Yokohama tyres for your pride & joy, just like me! Ha-ha
01-15-2019, 12:20 PM
#14
Having owned and tinkering with an s2000 for almost a year now, here are some of the things you should look for:
The main issue I have experienced with s2000 ownership is water leaks. Haha!
Mechanically they are very strong cars.
As mentioned, check the FAQs page. Tons of info on there
-Check the driver’s side main carpets for dampness and any water ingress
-While you’re there, check the clutch pedal and ensure the clutch master cylinder is not leaking or weeping
-Also check the passenger side main carpets for water ingress
(the air con tube can be dislodged with the water pipe dripping on the carpets)
-Check the main windshield to see if it has been replaced, as a poorly fitted windshield can induce water leaks.
-Soft top leaks are a common thing on s2000’s, it would be quite tricky to check for this when viewing a car unless the seller allows his car to be hosed down for you. Soft top replacement can cost up to £750 to replace.
It is a labour intensive job and not something an average person can perform on their own.
-Open the boot and remove the toolset in the base pan of the boot.
(check to ensure there is no standing water)
(check to ensure no other water ingress is present anywhere in the boot)
-Ensure the convertible roof retracts fully all the way down
-From a cold engine – Switch on the engine and check for rattle upon start up
(worn TCT – timing chain tensioner) – common issue on high mileage cars
-These engines can be quite tapptey when cold but should smoothen out
(Always benefit from a valve adjustment)
-Check for any vibration at motorway speeds
(Can be driveshaft issues if previously lowered or worn prop shaft)
-Check the headlights, all s2000 should have xenon headlights for their dipped beam.
(the ballasts are made by Mitsubishi electric and can be pricey to replace)
-The factory OEM alarm (Hamilton and palmer) i believe, has reliability issues.
(parts are quite rare for them now)
-Tensioner for the aux belt can be seen right at the front of the engine block
(has a stretch indicator so you can easily see if the belt needs replacing)
-All s2000’s suffer from the cold morning grind when the engine is started form sub zero temps
(difficult to test this when viewing a car)
-Don’t forget to check the air con and that it blows cold air
-s2000’s have a tendency for idle issues. This is a common problem and can as simple as cleaning the MAP and idle control valve, to a horrible nightmare where the car will stall when you come to a stop.
-S2000’s are getting on abit now and wasn’t given the best under seal protection from the factory when new.
(I believe this was due to saving weight)
-Common rear arch rust, get right underneath each arch and check.
-Check the underside chassis for rust
(rust are now usually found on the earlier models due to their age)
The car may have been used as a daily during winter, where it would have seen salty roads.
(Any evidence of this, you should walk away)
-Check panel gaps and changes of paint for any evidence of body repair or previous crash damage.
-If s2000’s are driven without respect they will spin out. Many people crash them.
(get right underneath the car and check for any evidence of accident repair)
(check to see if both rear crash beams are intact)
-Rear calipers seize up, this is a common issue (infact quite common all Honda’s)
-The gearboxes on s2000’s can be rather notchy when cold but from cold it should go into all gears including reverse
(Reverse is a push down)
If you find any gears difficult to engage when cold, you should walk away as this could potentially require a gearbox rebuild.
-Give it around 15 mins for the gearbox to warm up, the gear changes should be super buttery smooth and a joy to use.
Other stuff
-Make sure it has 2 keys and 2 fobs
-Regular services obviously – documented.
-Ideal if it has had a geo alignment (but be aware not everyone will actually have this done)
(Rarely do people perform a geo on their daily drivers – lol)
(Always budget to have this type of work done to any s2000)
-Buy a completely standard OEM car from a competent owner and not one which has been modified.
Budget to have all the fluids changed after purchase including a service
Engine oil, Spark plugs, oil filter, air filter and pollen filter.
(diff, coolant, gearbox, clutch, and brake fluid)
Also, perform a valve adjustment.
Have a look at this video, fab buyers guide
Hope it helps.
The main issue I have experienced with s2000 ownership is water leaks. Haha!
Mechanically they are very strong cars.
As mentioned, check the FAQs page. Tons of info on there
-Check the driver’s side main carpets for dampness and any water ingress
-While you’re there, check the clutch pedal and ensure the clutch master cylinder is not leaking or weeping
-Also check the passenger side main carpets for water ingress
(the air con tube can be dislodged with the water pipe dripping on the carpets)
-Check the main windshield to see if it has been replaced, as a poorly fitted windshield can induce water leaks.
-Soft top leaks are a common thing on s2000’s, it would be quite tricky to check for this when viewing a car unless the seller allows his car to be hosed down for you. Soft top replacement can cost up to £750 to replace.
It is a labour intensive job and not something an average person can perform on their own.
-Open the boot and remove the toolset in the base pan of the boot.
(check to ensure there is no standing water)
(check to ensure no other water ingress is present anywhere in the boot)
-Ensure the convertible roof retracts fully all the way down
-From a cold engine – Switch on the engine and check for rattle upon start up
(worn TCT – timing chain tensioner) – common issue on high mileage cars
-These engines can be quite tapptey when cold but should smoothen out
(Always benefit from a valve adjustment)
-Check for any vibration at motorway speeds
(Can be driveshaft issues if previously lowered or worn prop shaft)
-Check the headlights, all s2000 should have xenon headlights for their dipped beam.
(the ballasts are made by Mitsubishi electric and can be pricey to replace)
-The factory OEM alarm (Hamilton and palmer) i believe, has reliability issues.
(parts are quite rare for them now)
-Tensioner for the aux belt can be seen right at the front of the engine block
(has a stretch indicator so you can easily see if the belt needs replacing)
-All s2000’s suffer from the cold morning grind when the engine is started form sub zero temps
(difficult to test this when viewing a car)
-Don’t forget to check the air con and that it blows cold air
-s2000’s have a tendency for idle issues. This is a common problem and can as simple as cleaning the MAP and idle control valve, to a horrible nightmare where the car will stall when you come to a stop.
-S2000’s are getting on abit now and wasn’t given the best under seal protection from the factory when new.
(I believe this was due to saving weight)
-Common rear arch rust, get right underneath each arch and check.
-Check the underside chassis for rust
(rust are now usually found on the earlier models due to their age)
The car may have been used as a daily during winter, where it would have seen salty roads.
(Any evidence of this, you should walk away)
-Check panel gaps and changes of paint for any evidence of body repair or previous crash damage.
-If s2000’s are driven without respect they will spin out. Many people crash them.
(get right underneath the car and check for any evidence of accident repair)
(check to see if both rear crash beams are intact)
-Rear calipers seize up, this is a common issue (infact quite common all Honda’s)
-The gearboxes on s2000’s can be rather notchy when cold but from cold it should go into all gears including reverse
(Reverse is a push down)
If you find any gears difficult to engage when cold, you should walk away as this could potentially require a gearbox rebuild.
-Give it around 15 mins for the gearbox to warm up, the gear changes should be super buttery smooth and a joy to use.
Other stuff
-Make sure it has 2 keys and 2 fobs
-Regular services obviously – documented.
-Ideal if it has had a geo alignment (but be aware not everyone will actually have this done)
(Rarely do people perform a geo on their daily drivers – lol)
(Always budget to have this type of work done to any s2000)
-Buy a completely standard OEM car from a competent owner and not one which has been modified.
Budget to have all the fluids changed after purchase including a service
Engine oil, Spark plugs, oil filter, air filter and pollen filter.
(diff, coolant, gearbox, clutch, and brake fluid)
Also, perform a valve adjustment.
Have a look at this video, fab buyers guide
Hope it helps.
01-16-2019, 08:15 AM
#16
Engines are very strong bar some issues with very late cars which proved terminal for them, they are out of your budget by the look of it anyway.
Later gearboxes have some minor tweaks, lots of suspension tweaks over the years too. Some later cars have basic traction control called vsa which is fairly prone to failure but also cheapish to fix.
tbh it's like any used car, look for a careful owner who doesnt thrash cold, avoid crash damaged or poorly repaired cars, the rear does rust as everyone has pointed out.
brakes can need tlc, look at the discs. if the pedal feels a bit wooden the calipers might need refurb but it aint pricey if you are handy enough to fit.
braided lines a good upgrade ime
ensure it's had alignment, lots of rusted bolts out there which need cutting out to replace, can be time consuming or/and expensive.
if the alarm has been replaced ensure it's a reputable fitter, they can be a pain. the alarms fitted to UK cars are not great.
Later gearboxes have some minor tweaks, lots of suspension tweaks over the years too. Some later cars have basic traction control called vsa which is fairly prone to failure but also cheapish to fix.
tbh it's like any used car, look for a careful owner who doesnt thrash cold, avoid crash damaged or poorly repaired cars, the rear does rust as everyone has pointed out.
brakes can need tlc, look at the discs. if the pedal feels a bit wooden the calipers might need refurb but it aint pricey if you are handy enough to fit.
braided lines a good upgrade ime
ensure it's had alignment, lots of rusted bolts out there which need cutting out to replace, can be time consuming or/and expensive.
if the alarm has been replaced ensure it's a reputable fitter, they can be a pain. the alarms fitted to UK cars are not great.
01-16-2019, 10:13 AM
#19
UK Moderator
Moderator Comment: Please note that advertising cars for sale is not permitted for non-paying members, so I've removed some posts.
The rules are here: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-irela...-first-131836/
The rules are here: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-irela...-first-131836/
