Can you turn off alarm without fob
10-14-2005, 12:36 AM
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Can you turn off alarm without fob
At 3:56 this morning my alarm started sounding (oem pos). I haven't used the S for a week or so and the battery has run down which is why I think the alarm decided to go off, no flashing hazards so didn't even realise it was mine to start with. As a result of the battery being dead I couldn't turn the alarm off with the fob 
, after 10 minutes or so of intermitant sounding it stopped, I have disconnected the battery and put on charge, (whilst half asleep). Just wondered if there is a way of stopping the alarm sounding as if you just disconnect the battery it will still sound on its own power. If there is a security sensitive answer please pm me instead of posting
Cheers
Marc
Don't think my neighbours will be best pleased this morning either
, after 10 minutes or so of intermitant sounding it stopped, I have disconnected the battery and put on charge, (whilst half asleep). Just wondered if there is a way of stopping the alarm sounding as if you just disconnect the battery it will still sound on its own power. If there is a security sensitive answer please pm me instead of postingCheers
Marc
Don't think my neighbours will be best pleased this morning either
10-14-2005, 12:54 AM
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Yes, you can - or I can on mine (2000MY) anyway.
Under the bonnet there is a box near the sounder with a cylindrical keyhole in it (like the keys bike D-locks have). You should have a key that fits this somewhere. That will turn off the alarm.
I don't think this is security sensitive as it's not exactly uncommon - but if a mod gets scared feel free to delete..
Under the bonnet there is a box near the sounder with a cylindrical keyhole in it (like the keys bike D-locks have). You should have a key that fits this somewhere. That will turn off the alarm.
I don't think this is security sensitive as it's not exactly uncommon - but if a mod gets scared feel free to delete..
10-14-2005, 03:24 AM
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Thanks for the comments, i don't have any key for that Tim, big hammer maybe.
Euan, if the battery rans flat I think the alarm will think someones has disconnected it so goes off, maybe.
Stuart, all my trips have been very short recently so I doubt the battery has had much chance to charge and the cold doesn't help. Guess I best drive it a bit more
Euan, if the battery rans flat I think the alarm will think someones has disconnected it so goes off, maybe.
Stuart, all my trips have been very short recently so I doubt the battery has had much chance to charge and the cold doesn't help. Guess I best drive it a bit more
10-14-2005, 03:28 AM
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A post I've made before on the subject (BassOctopus - maybe time for a FAQ entry? ):
Types of batteries:
There are two types of lead acid batteries in common use in vehicles. These are sealed and unsealed wet cell batteries. Most modern vehicles have sealed batteries but most old vehicles have unsealed batteries. Both types have breather tubes. The easiest way to tell the difference is to see whether there are top up holes in the top of the battery. If there are easily removable caps to put fluid in it's an unsealed battery. If the battery appears to have no holes in the top or the lid is difficult to remove it's a sealed battery and you shouldn't try to remove it.
Unsealed batteries are assumed to degrade over time and the caps allow you to refresh the fluid inside as it degrades. To a very limited degree you can top the battery up with distilled (pure) water but eventually you'll have to empty the battery and refill it from scratch with sulphuric acid. This is not pleasant.
So why is the difference important? Well, it's all down to...
Charging:
Sealed lead acid batteries are MUCH less tolerant of charging idiosyncrasies than unsealed batteries. The charging mechanisms are therefore different and you MUST NOT connect a sealed lead acid battery to a charger (either standalone or in a vehicle) which is not designed for one. If you do you will write off the battery very quickly.
If you wish to charge a sealed lead acid battery you must make sure you have a charger specifically designed for them, and they'll usually have a switch to select unsealed or sealed. It's not enough to have a traditional current sensing charger. If you don't you will toast your battery.
Many Honda motorcycles have known issues with their rectifier/regulator circuits. The old VFR400 is a perfect example and regularly toasts its regulator resulting in unregulated charging of the battery. As well as destroying the (sealed) battery the unregulated charging will cause the battery to overheat drastically, potentially resulting in fire in surrounding components or melting of critical parts (e.g. the battery case itself). The problem isn't limited to Honda but it's especially prevalent in some of their motorcycles.
Discharging:
Discharging of a lead acid battery is as important as charging. Lead acid batteries degrade very quickly when discharged so flat batteries effectively destroy themselves. Symptoms of this destruction are an inability to maintain charge and in extreme cases an inability to supply large currents (e.g. starting an engine) even though the battery voltage is fine.
When leaving the vehicle for any length of time you must keep the battery topped up. You can start the engine for 15 mins (any less will drain the battery more than it's charging it!) or attach the battery to a special type of battery charger called a battery conditioner. This charger has electronic circuitry inside to switch off the charge when the battery is full and prevents overcharging. This kind of charger usually has an indicator explicitly saying that it's finished charging the battery.
If you do discharge the battery completely (by leaving a vehicle unattended for a month or so) the battery will degrade very quickly and render itself useless. Although you'll be able to charge it it won't hold the charge for longer than a few days and then, of course, it'll get worse as it's left discharged for longer.
Buying a new battery solves the problem temporarily but if the long term issues of keeping the battery topped up aren't resolved the same will happen to your shiny new battery too.
):Types of batteries:
There are two types of lead acid batteries in common use in vehicles. These are sealed and unsealed wet cell batteries. Most modern vehicles have sealed batteries but most old vehicles have unsealed batteries. Both types have breather tubes. The easiest way to tell the difference is to see whether there are top up holes in the top of the battery. If there are easily removable caps to put fluid in it's an unsealed battery. If the battery appears to have no holes in the top or the lid is difficult to remove it's a sealed battery and you shouldn't try to remove it.
Unsealed batteries are assumed to degrade over time and the caps allow you to refresh the fluid inside as it degrades. To a very limited degree you can top the battery up with distilled (pure) water but eventually you'll have to empty the battery and refill it from scratch with sulphuric acid. This is not pleasant.
So why is the difference important? Well, it's all down to...
Charging:
Sealed lead acid batteries are MUCH less tolerant of charging idiosyncrasies than unsealed batteries. The charging mechanisms are therefore different and you MUST NOT connect a sealed lead acid battery to a charger (either standalone or in a vehicle) which is not designed for one. If you do you will write off the battery very quickly.
If you wish to charge a sealed lead acid battery you must make sure you have a charger specifically designed for them, and they'll usually have a switch to select unsealed or sealed. It's not enough to have a traditional current sensing charger. If you don't you will toast your battery.
Many Honda motorcycles have known issues with their rectifier/regulator circuits. The old VFR400 is a perfect example and regularly toasts its regulator resulting in unregulated charging of the battery. As well as destroying the (sealed) battery the unregulated charging will cause the battery to overheat drastically, potentially resulting in fire in surrounding components or melting of critical parts (e.g. the battery case itself). The problem isn't limited to Honda but it's especially prevalent in some of their motorcycles.
Discharging:
Discharging of a lead acid battery is as important as charging. Lead acid batteries degrade very quickly when discharged so flat batteries effectively destroy themselves. Symptoms of this destruction are an inability to maintain charge and in extreme cases an inability to supply large currents (e.g. starting an engine) even though the battery voltage is fine.
When leaving the vehicle for any length of time you must keep the battery topped up. You can start the engine for 15 mins (any less will drain the battery more than it's charging it!) or attach the battery to a special type of battery charger called a battery conditioner. This charger has electronic circuitry inside to switch off the charge when the battery is full and prevents overcharging. This kind of charger usually has an indicator explicitly saying that it's finished charging the battery.
If you do discharge the battery completely (by leaving a vehicle unattended for a month or so) the battery will degrade very quickly and render itself useless. Although you'll be able to charge it it won't hold the charge for longer than a few days and then, of course, it'll get worse as it's left discharged for longer.
Buying a new battery solves the problem temporarily but if the long term issues of keeping the battery topped up aren't resolved the same will happen to your shiny new battery too.
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