SBDESIGN

Hi

I have been going around in circles for over 2 years since I had a whack on back wheel. (BENT ARM AND SUBFRAME REAR)

BACKGROUND:

1st round:
Damage fixed
new bottom arm
Aligned

ISSUE: had scraping on rear wheel, took it back and was told it was the shit shield, sound went but but came back again

2nd Round:
Went for Alignment, and was told subframe was bent
1st round guy is ill and closed (had a stroke) so no going back and time to move on.
Got a new subframe fitted and poly bushes & the guy aligned it (apparently)
Outer tyre on concerning side wore out after 1-2K miles. so...

3rd Round:
Went somewhere else to get lazer aligned, and still the alignment was outside of Uk spec at max adjustments.
They Couldn't see anything bent, and was advised that adjustable toe rods could be enough to correct.
Got megan Racing toe rods
Re-aligned, this time all in alignment green except camber on that concerning side is 0.01 into the red. not that bad, but something still wrong.

CURRENTLY:
Car drives reasonably well but I don't think its perfect.
Car pulls slightly to the left (no much) and steering wheel feels like 1minute past 12 as opposed to 12 o'clock.

I have clicking and clunking when braking (from this same rear wheel) pads are very low!
But also a knocking on wheel rotation.

VISUALLY: the rear disc has 10mm of rust on the outer perimeter of the braking surface, but max 15mm and min 5mm
DOES THIS INDICATE a warped disc (my logic is it is catching different sized surface when braking) or COULD this indicate the hub?

The knocking I believe is the shield, if i tap the back of the bottom of the shield to hit the disc, the noise is very similar. But i have noticed these megan toe rods push the shield towards the disc, anybody know if this is normal, or another sign of a bent hub?

PROPOSED RESOLUTION:
New discs and pads on rear
Possible new rear hub? - I read a thread where I understood users were suggesting that if a subframe and arm are bent, then the hub is very likely to have damage. Of all the people who have checked the car, they all think the hub is fine. WHAT DO PEOPLE THINK?

Cheers for any advice
John

unclefester

Ummm have you checked the pad rattle shims are fitted on the rear??

mikefifth

Axle nut?

Carbon S2K

I'm with Mike on this one, I hear the OEM torque spec isn't enough? Also when your rear subframe was fitted was it aligned?as these have room to shift which is why the subframe collars are a good idea.

SBDESIGN

I have heard this so much on here, but it does sound like the guard catching on rotation. I will look into this more and update.

SBDESIGN

I assume only that it was aligned. I bought all parts so I don't think collars were used.
I have checked the diagram for sub alignment, and can see it has reference holes that i will check later to see if subframe is aligned.

If it isn't this may cause the pull and bad alignment. Can it affect camber? or just castor/toe?

Also this wouldn't be linked to the noises would it?
Any opinion other on the brakes?

uncle fester: because pads are low, I will check when doing the rear brakes. Both L & R look the same, so I Assume.

Thanks for peoples input, it is very helpful information to check.

I don't know why but I am paranoid the hub is bent.

MattyH

You could always temporarily remove or bend the guard back to be sure that it is definitely not that.

The clicking of the axle nut certainly sounds like the culprit. The low pads shouldn't affect this and the wear on the rear discs seems to be par for the course on the s2k when the discs and pads are getting on a bit.

Dillon_93

I had an accident with a kurb and hit it about 10-15mph and destroyed the hub but the subframe was intact, I'd look at changing the hub if you can't find a solution

SBDESIGN

Cheers guys,
I'll check with guard off once brakes arrive. Tighten Nut, check subframe alignment
Then I'll keep my eyes peeled for a hub Dillion. Whats the going rate on these? could you tell yours was bent? or do you know because changing it fixed it?

I'm about to order brakes, and thought to get discs & pads from mtec £205 for all. Vented and dimpled, and brembo pads? If anyone wishes to give any advice, I'd appreciate it.

Basically got 4 things (some maybe related) , slightly bad alignment, rotation clunking/knocking LR, a rattly brake with bad wear LR and a slight pull to the left.

I'm starting to loose hope, but the advice and suggestions gives some faith for now - thank you.

SBDESIGN

alignment

FRONT:
camber -0.24 / - 0.30
Toe 0.00 / -0.03

REAR:
camber -1.42 / - 1.30
Toe 0.15 / 0.12

If that means anything