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Clutch pedal biting point feels 'lower'? General Clutch questions..

Old 09-13-2018, 09:31 AM
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Default Clutch pedal biting point feels 'lower'? General Clutch questions..

Hi chaps, me again.. !

So today I've been driving as normal and noticed the clutch pedal feels ever so slightly lower to the floor for the biting point. Perhaps it's me being paranoid but I want to be prepared just incase... appreciate any help!

I initially noticed it when parking as I actually felt the pedal hit the max travel (Bottomed out), then I eased off a small amount and the bite was there.

Basically I can notice it when driving too it just feels slightly lower than it has been for the last 4 months owning the car. How can this have happened overnight and what is the best thing to do first?

For starters I am wondering if it's related to the clutch master cylinder (the one directly on the pedal right?)

Here's a pic;

It doesn't look to be obviously leaking but I wouldn't be surprised if it has done over time perhaps. How does it look?

However,the level in the fluid reservoir looks fine (albeit quite black so needs changing.)

A picture of that:


I found this good guide

https://howtune.com/articles/391-rep...-a-honda-s2000


Do you think that's a good place to start?

And if not, perhaps a new master cylinder?

Worst case could it be that my clutch is on the way out? Wheres the best place to source an OEM clutch these days?

Ahhh so many questions such a n00b! Haha!

Cheers chaps.
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:35 AM
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Master cylinder;

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Old 09-13-2018, 09:57 AM
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Yuk! Could well be the master.

Is your clutch fluid as black as the Ace of Spades?

You could try a fluid change; the clean fluid will probably piss out of the M/C seal and then you'll know.

Alternatively, you might re-seal it (and do the slave) and save wasting fluid.

Here's the explodey thing:
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Old 09-13-2018, 10:53 AM
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Blimey, thanks mate!


I'm worried it could all of a sudden go down and not bite hence leaving me stranded? Maybe over thinking but I want to do my research now just incase...

Yeah the fluid is very black. Can I just use a turkey baster to suck it out the reservoir and replace that for the moment? Or is there no point / could that cause air leak issues? Haha
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Old 09-13-2018, 11:46 AM
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Yes start with replacing the fluid, any DOT4 will do, soak out as much as you can from the reservoir, get the rags in for a good clean up. Top it up and bleed it through till it comes through clean.
The turkey baster idea wont work if you have air in the system, you need to flush it right through to get the air out.
If it works fine, if not you will need to look at the master and/or slave cylinders.
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Old 09-13-2018, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by tommys2k? View Post
Blimey, thanks mate!


I'm worried it could all of a sudden go down and not bite hence leaving me stranded? Maybe over thinking but I want to do my research now just incase...

Yeah the fluid is very black. Can I just use a turkey baster to suck it out the reservoir and replace that for the moment? Or is there no point / could that cause air leak issues? Haha
The reservoir's merely a reservoir and it's the bit lower down that's the issue.

It will get worse and one cannot rule out complete failure. I'd practice your clutchless gear changes, IIWY...if fluid's getting out, air's likely getting in so a bleed with fresh fluid might be a temporary fix. But it will likely leak faster due to the effects on the rubbers.

My NSX had a weepy master (the fluid was clean), but they sell the piston complete with seals as a unit. The cylinder bore was fine, so it was a straight, easy swap. I replaced the entire slave as a safeguard, as the bores tend to corrode. I think I got them from the US, because they were relatively cheap. Probably less than Ling's want for an S2000, IIRC.
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Old 09-13-2018, 10:36 PM
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Like the others said, replace fluid and clean out all smudge inside the reservoir.
After that pump your clutch pedal 40-50 times or as long as you manage
Fluid is probably going to get dark again quite quickly so replace and clean again. Doing this a couple of times might save your master cyl if you are lucky.
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Old 09-14-2018, 12:20 AM
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You've definitely got fluid leaking out of the back of the master cylinder there - so I'd say the damage is already done. In my experience mine went from being totally fine for a trackday, to complete failure within a week. I'd just save yourself the future faff and change it - it's not as difficult of a job as you might think, I believe my OEM replacement cost about £90.
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Old 09-14-2018, 03:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Andy_F View Post
You've definitely got fluid leaking out of the back of the master cylinder there - so I'd say the damage is already done. In my experience mine went from being totally fine for a trackday, to complete failure within a week. I'd just save yourself the future faff and change it - it's not as difficult of a job as you might think, I believe my OEM replacement cost about £90.
What he said - I think it's just one of those jobs that sound bad but are actually quite easy for the home DIYer / bodger like me

A blue print one is fine for the job Tommy la.
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Old 09-14-2018, 03:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Andy_F View Post
You've definitely got fluid leaking out of the back of the master cylinder there - so I'd say the damage is already done. In my experience mine went from being totally fine for a trackday, to complete failure within a week. I'd just save yourself the future faff and change it - it's not as difficult of a job as you might think, I believe my OEM replacement cost about £90.
This.

Though a piston assy would be cheaper, if finances are tight. Of course, that could turn into false economy...


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