Clutch...whoops
#1
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Clutch...whoops
I was going for an "I can pull out into that gap if I use a little exuberance" at the weekend - a slight uphill gradient, and a high grip surface, saw me pull out, but the car not really accelerate over 20mph...lots of clutch smell.
For the first couple of days after, there was a strong clutch smell whenever I got out of the car - this seems to have subsided a bit since then, but I'm starting to be paranoid "is that the clutch slipping..?" etc..
Now, being as the car is on it's original clutch, and has now done 106k miles (I'm astounded...frankly..)including track days and the ring, I think it's only fair I consider treating her to a new one.
First question - I've only had one clutch go before, and it went in a glorious carcophany of bangs and rattles. Does the smell hint that this one is "on it's way" even though there's no noticable slip or change to bite point etc?
Second - Is OEM still the best one to go for? To be honest, I'd like something a touch heavier, and a bit more aggressive...something like an ACT 4-puck.
I'm aware, though, that the OEM is highly regarded - and why wouldn't it be if mine is anything to go by. So it looks like either one from Hendy before his offer runs out, or an Excedy. I don't want to go for a brand I've never heard of, but I've not been able to find out anything about the Excedy unit?
And no...I can't afford the Carbotech
I'm going to get the gearbox swapped while it's being done so that I have a 5th gear back as well! (Need to talk nicely to Rob @ Garage-R )
For the first couple of days after, there was a strong clutch smell whenever I got out of the car - this seems to have subsided a bit since then, but I'm starting to be paranoid "is that the clutch slipping..?" etc..
Now, being as the car is on it's original clutch, and has now done 106k miles (I'm astounded...frankly..)including track days and the ring, I think it's only fair I consider treating her to a new one.
First question - I've only had one clutch go before, and it went in a glorious carcophany of bangs and rattles. Does the smell hint that this one is "on it's way" even though there's no noticable slip or change to bite point etc?
Second - Is OEM still the best one to go for? To be honest, I'd like something a touch heavier, and a bit more aggressive...something like an ACT 4-puck.
I'm aware, though, that the OEM is highly regarded - and why wouldn't it be if mine is anything to go by. So it looks like either one from Hendy before his offer runs out, or an Excedy. I don't want to go for a brand I've never heard of, but I've not been able to find out anything about the Excedy unit?
And no...I can't afford the Carbotech
I'm going to get the gearbox swapped while it's being done so that I have a 5th gear back as well! (Need to talk nicely to Rob @ Garage-R )
#2
Exedy IS OEM IIRC
Mine got changed out at 73k miles - new one is an OEM one ... clutch pedal is so light, i thought it was broken at first.
Mine got changed out at 73k miles - new one is an OEM one ... clutch pedal is so light, i thought it was broken at first.
#5
When you speak to Garage R ask about the clutch.
I had a non-OEM one put in mine, that feels like OEM.
I've been running it for quite a while now and it's spot on.
It gets a little smelly when I'm aggressive with it or mucking about on close parking and riding it more than I should, but I think that's just a regular thing – and much easier to notice with a roof down.
I had a non-OEM one put in mine, that feels like OEM.
I've been running it for quite a while now and it's spot on.
It gets a little smelly when I'm aggressive with it or mucking about on close parking and riding it more than I should, but I think that's just a regular thing – and much easier to notice with a roof down.
#6
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ooohhh there's a point, I've been abroad for 3 weeks so hadn't driven the car at all.
With clutches - I'd always rather get it changed before it leaves me stranded! Having said that, yes, if there's no slip, it would seem churlish.
I'll see how it behaves over the next couple of weeks.
With clutches - I'd always rather get it changed before it leaves me stranded! Having said that, yes, if there's no slip, it would seem churlish.
I'll see how it behaves over the next couple of weeks.
#7
Some people have fitted these I think:
Tegiwa F1 racing clutches, available in stage 1,2 and 3
http://www.tegiwaimports.com/eshop/s...idProduct=1393
Might be worth a punt, i'd search some reviews out first
I always used OEM Honda clutches before as they were great all round, but for the S2000 they are a bit steep.
I once walked in to a Honda parts dept, they had a deal (customer ordered and didn't pick up) on a Honda CRX VT clutch kit.. to my surprise, £100 all in, I pissed myself, then bought it
Tegiwa F1 racing clutches, available in stage 1,2 and 3
http://www.tegiwaimports.com/eshop/s...idProduct=1393
Might be worth a punt, i'd search some reviews out first
I always used OEM Honda clutches before as they were great all round, but for the S2000 they are a bit steep.
I once walked in to a Honda parts dept, they had a deal (customer ordered and didn't pick up) on a Honda CRX VT clutch kit.. to my surprise, £100 all in, I pissed myself, then bought it
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#8
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I've got the tegiwa stage1 in mine.
bite is fine it does grind a bit through from time to time, although i suspect it's an oil leak thats causing issues; as the oil heats up it's causing clutch issues.
not bad for £250 or so that it costs; it even comes with all 4 parts required. At 100k/10years, i'd recommend a new oil seal though - mine didnt get one, and i think the disruption around that area has made it fail. im kicking myself for it!
it doesnt feel any different, but does give 10-20% more clutch plate pressure. i'd still like a slightly heavier pedal though as i find the S a bit too light...
oh... if the gearbox is being changed, why not change the clutch? seems silly to have the clutch done again in 10k when it has gone pop so your paying twice for the box to be removed.
bite is fine it does grind a bit through from time to time, although i suspect it's an oil leak thats causing issues; as the oil heats up it's causing clutch issues.
not bad for £250 or so that it costs; it even comes with all 4 parts required. At 100k/10years, i'd recommend a new oil seal though - mine didnt get one, and i think the disruption around that area has made it fail. im kicking myself for it!
it doesnt feel any different, but does give 10-20% more clutch plate pressure. i'd still like a slightly heavier pedal though as i find the S a bit too light...
oh... if the gearbox is being changed, why not change the clutch? seems silly to have the clutch done again in 10k when it has gone pop so your paying twice for the box to be removed.
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Did exactly the same as you pulling out on to the A5 north of Dunstable, nearly sh@t myself with a truck bearing down on me and no go ....had to dip the clutch and start again. Anyway that was 18 months ago and it's still fine - touch wood. Mind you I only do about 4K a year in the S and the car about 35K in total.
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I've just had mine replaced today with an Excedy one. Can;t wait to pick it up!
I do wonder though, reading here that some are still running at 100K+, whereas some give up the ghost at 60 - 70k that driving styles can vary so differently that a clutch would wear at such an inconsistent rate?
My bite point sat right at the top of the clutch pedal. It's got 60k on the clock and would slip in 4th. I've had it since it had 38k on the clock. Can it really be me that has done it, or the woman that owned it before me? (Awaits a flaming from the females on here. )
I do wonder though, reading here that some are still running at 100K+, whereas some give up the ghost at 60 - 70k that driving styles can vary so differently that a clutch would wear at such an inconsistent rate?
My bite point sat right at the top of the clutch pedal. It's got 60k on the clock and would slip in 4th. I've had it since it had 38k on the clock. Can it really be me that has done it, or the woman that owned it before me? (Awaits a flaming from the females on here. )