A Conundrum , Why Did I start
#11
Look at it this way; in all the time you've owned it it's only cost you routine maintenance. So look at it as buying a new car, but without the hassle of actually having to buy a new car
#12
Thread Starter
Dam i have landed up with a dupicate thread help they need to be merged!
Swept the cart lodge out and sorted out the bits and pieces in there, and then drive it in a find the best location for access to all corners, what ever happens I have to sort out the sticky caliper.
Swept the cart lodge out and sorted out the bits and pieces in there, and then drive it in a find the best location for access to all corners, what ever happens I have to sort out the sticky caliper.
#13
Thread Starter
Drop links will come of , they were off 2 years ago to be freed up and greased. But i would think they are now shot in any case, i am going to look at the in a few minutes , I agree best to get new one now at this age and already having had problems with water ingress and corrosion.
Thats a good idea about some imports, i will have to do some research. Thanks for prodding the grey cells fester!
Thats a good idea about some imports, i will have to do some research. Thanks for prodding the grey cells fester!
#14
UK Moderator
Dam i have landed up with a dupicate thread help they need to be merged!
Swept the cart lodge out and sorted out the bits and pieces in there, and then drive it in a find the best location for access to all corners, what ever happens I have to sort out the sticky caliper.
Swept the cart lodge out and sorted out the bits and pieces in there, and then drive it in a find the best location for access to all corners, what ever happens I have to sort out the sticky caliper.
#16
If you had the time / money i'd bet you could pick new OEM arms with bushes up for a good price from the USA then you could strip, clean and powdercoat your own OEM arms and punt them on to make some of the money back.
The other option ( space allowing ) is to pick up a good straight early car with CAT D panel damage and use it as a parts tart - would give you all the spares you'd ever need.
I still think items like bolts / geo adjusters / toe arms etc and balljoints need replacing with new stuff though.
The other option ( space allowing ) is to pick up a good straight early car with CAT D panel damage and use it as a parts tart - would give you all the spares you'd ever need.
I still think items like bolts / geo adjusters / toe arms etc and balljoints need replacing with new stuff though.
#17
UK Moderator
Chippo, see my thread here: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/949...ld-you-replace se from post 39 onwards for various purchases
and for suspension, this one: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/971...placement-help
I've replaced loads of stuff on my car, it's certainly worth doing the engine mounts, if you ship them in from CFL (details in my thread). Droplinks and suchlike are cheap as chips from them as well.
If you want to do bushes, have a look at using the Mugen bits rather than polybush as Nut did, especially as ride comfort is important to you, his thread is here: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/973765-nut-project/
I left my old suspension arms at Wheel In Motion, so if you get in touch with them, they would be able to do a quick swap service. Speak to Tony Bones 01494 797825.
Be very careful with coilovers, pretty much all the aftermarket stuff runs on stiff springs and is therefore less comfortable than the OEM stuff. I'd suggest you try and blag some passenger rides or drives of other people's cars to see what you think. I'd actually suggest you try to find someone selling some OEM bits from a lower mileage car, and 08 onwards would be ideal for this I think.
Good luck
and for suspension, this one: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/971...placement-help
I've replaced loads of stuff on my car, it's certainly worth doing the engine mounts, if you ship them in from CFL (details in my thread). Droplinks and suchlike are cheap as chips from them as well.
If you want to do bushes, have a look at using the Mugen bits rather than polybush as Nut did, especially as ride comfort is important to you, his thread is here: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/973765-nut-project/
I left my old suspension arms at Wheel In Motion, so if you get in touch with them, they would be able to do a quick swap service. Speak to Tony Bones 01494 797825.
Be very careful with coilovers, pretty much all the aftermarket stuff runs on stiff springs and is therefore less comfortable than the OEM stuff. I'd suggest you try and blag some passenger rides or drives of other people's cars to see what you think. I'd actually suggest you try to find someone selling some OEM bits from a lower mileage car, and 08 onwards would be ideal for this I think.
Good luck
#18
Stripping all the suspension off including the subframes is a big enough job to keep you busy over winter.if you powder coat the hubs you will need to replace the wheel bearings but with new bearings, bushes and shocks the car will feel so much better.Do It
#19
Thread Starter
Simon , thanks for the links , i think in the past i have wandered through most of them but time for a more in depth look.
I have had some e mails back and forth with Jerrick at Meister regarding spring rates, the norm is 10/10 but he has supplied 8/8 , question is who was that and what are they like?
Any way, hells bells its started , car is up on stands , but dam need to access the loft space so it will have to come off again tomorrow and then back again.
The sticky caliper is not the slider pins, as I thought they were re-greased last time i did pads and as free as larks, these were Mintex pads christ what a state they are in , so its the bin for them big chunks missing. All the shims are rotten to so maybe a set of OEM as I recall you get new shims with them.
Good news taken the arch protectors of the rear wings not a sign of rust, first time in 11 years , loads of mud trapped but no rust, will post a pic. There always an exception to prove the rule!
Bumper screw are rotten, and have 3 now with stripped heads so it will be a touch of fiddle factor to remove, the lower plastic fixings are all brittle to and have snapped, so they will be replaced along with all off the steel fixings.
God i can see the rear cross beam that rotten to, so shoot blast and powder coat for that.
I have had some e mails back and forth with Jerrick at Meister regarding spring rates, the norm is 10/10 but he has supplied 8/8 , question is who was that and what are they like?
Any way, hells bells its started , car is up on stands , but dam need to access the loft space so it will have to come off again tomorrow and then back again.
The sticky caliper is not the slider pins, as I thought they were re-greased last time i did pads and as free as larks, these were Mintex pads christ what a state they are in , so its the bin for them big chunks missing. All the shims are rotten to so maybe a set of OEM as I recall you get new shims with them.
Good news taken the arch protectors of the rear wings not a sign of rust, first time in 11 years , loads of mud trapped but no rust, will post a pic. There always an exception to prove the rule!
Bumper screw are rotten, and have 3 now with stripped heads so it will be a touch of fiddle factor to remove, the lower plastic fixings are all brittle to and have snapped, so they will be replaced along with all off the steel fixings.
God i can see the rear cross beam that rotten to, so shoot blast and powder coat for that.
#20
Thread Starter
Mr Pitts !, i havent looked into it yet , but does the engine /gear box sit on the front subframe or can you remove the subframe and leave the engine gear box in situ ?