Corroded brake lines
11-12-2018, 08:22 PM
#11
Looks like a replacement job
11-15-2018, 07:39 AM
#12
I replaced my rears about 5 years ago.
Roll of copper bundy tube from Pirtek, it’s was soft drawn so I just cut the old lines, disconnected them, cut some new to length (using the old as a rough template) then fed them through the rear subframes (which removing it or touch the bolts) to the front of the car.... flared and connected.
Took about an hour per side and about £20/30 total
Roll of copper bundy tube from Pirtek, it’s was soft drawn so I just cut the old lines, disconnected them, cut some new to length (using the old as a rough template) then fed them through the rear subframes (which removing it or touch the bolts) to the front of the car.... flared and connected.
Took about an hour per side and about £20/30 total
11-16-2018, 01:21 AM
#13
I replaced my rears about 5 years ago.
Roll of copper bundy tube from Pirtek, it’s was soft drawn so I just cut the old lines, disconnected them, cut some new to length (using the old as a rough template) then fed them through the rear subframes (which removing it or touch the bolts) to the front of the car.... flared and connected.
Took about an hour per side and about £20/30 total
Roll of copper bundy tube from Pirtek, it’s was soft drawn so I just cut the old lines, disconnected them, cut some new to length (using the old as a rough template) then fed them through the rear subframes (which removing it or touch the bolts) to the front of the car.... flared and connected.
Took about an hour per side and about £20/30 total
Did you run all the way to the proportioning valve near the gearbox or make a join part way? My thought way to use braided and join part way as the pies in the long plastic cage seem in good condition.
Only concerns are flaring the OEM steel lines - the kit i have says it is not suitable for steel posts online say it will be fine.
Glad to hear you were able to run new lines without touching the subframe. Was it a neat job? Guess you couldn't get the new lines to sit in the OEM clips?
I understand copper lines are best avoided in favour of kunifer.
11-17-2018, 12:40 AM
#14
Yes to the front valve all the way back to the caliper braided lines.
and because it’s soft drawn copper yes I reused all the clipping points and mounting. Looks OEM, just copper.
If you bend the new lines to shape then feed them from the back of the car to the front it only slightly bends them out of shape so you can just rebend them by hand once in position. It is the best and cheapest way.
and because it’s soft drawn copper yes I reused all the clipping points and mounting. Looks OEM, just copper.
If you bend the new lines to shape then feed them from the back of the car to the front it only slightly bends them out of shape so you can just rebend them by hand once in position. It is the best and cheapest way.
11-20-2018, 01:26 AM
#15
Use a PROPER brake pipe union spanner for that distribution block, They're tighter than a nuns proverbial.
I used Kunifer on mine about 3 years ago, still looking well now, only drawback to using it, is it's pretty hard to bend!
I used Kunifer on mine about 3 years ago, still looking well now, only drawback to using it, is it's pretty hard to bend!
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Lonely Doridori
S2000 Brakes and Suspension
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03-02-2018 06:35 AM