Deceleration buzz - new fix - ALL MODEL YEARS!
#61
Registered User
Well I'm either extremely lucky, or I've got higher tolerance levels.
The only thing I notice is that if I make a 'racing change' down to 2nd at higher revs than normal then I get a deep resonant boomy sort of drone from the tranny if I decelerate from that point, and which disappears as I apply revs. It's not an unpleasant sound, in fact it sounds really rauty and is quite a head turner!
I'll have to get one of you gearbox gurus to have a go in it at some stage! Interesting that gearboxes seem to differ so much though.
The only thing I notice is that if I make a 'racing change' down to 2nd at higher revs than normal then I get a deep resonant boomy sort of drone from the tranny if I decelerate from that point, and which disappears as I apply revs. It's not an unpleasant sound, in fact it sounds really rauty and is quite a head turner!
I'll have to get one of you gearbox gurus to have a go in it at some stage! Interesting that gearboxes seem to differ so much though.
#62
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Im wondering if some of the problems are driver related - my kangerooing has gotten excessive in the last couple of weeks and Im trying to alter my driving style to blip the throttle and to increase the revs before pulling away and it seems to be working.
People who do this kind of thing automatically (people who's first car was a Fiesta 1.0!) may do this already and will never notice the kangerooing.
Keith
People who do this kind of thing automatically (people who's first car was a Fiesta 1.0!) may do this already and will never notice the kangerooing.
Keith
#63
Registered User
Tyringe.
Unless you've changed fuel recently, try resetting the ECU, either just pull the fuse for a few seconds or disconnect the battery. Either will do it. If you disconnect the battery of course, you'll have to re-code the radio. Other people have solved this kangaroo thing by gently tapping the MAP sensor, which is on the front right corner of the engine as you stand facing it. I reckon a CAI would go a long way to solving some of these low revs problems too, giving much better throttle response.
Unless you've changed fuel recently, try resetting the ECU, either just pull the fuse for a few seconds or disconnect the battery. Either will do it. If you disconnect the battery of course, you'll have to re-code the radio. Other people have solved this kangaroo thing by gently tapping the MAP sensor, which is on the front right corner of the engine as you stand facing it. I reckon a CAI would go a long way to solving some of these low revs problems too, giving much better throttle response.
#64
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I'm sure you're right on the CAI issue Cedric, that hot air over the radiator can really bog you down. On Sunday I pulled over after some spirited driving to snap a few pic's and left the engine running..... when I went to set off again I got a serious case of kangarooing! In town traffic I give a tiny blip of the throttle (practically unnoticeable to others I'm sure) that seems to prevent any of these types of odd throtle response.
#65
Tyringe: I'd agree with you on the Kangarooing. Since having it a few times I've got in the habit of a little blip to 1500rpm or so before setting off. Seems to work well.
The Iridium plugs have helped low down as well - though I've recently increased the gap which seems better in Vtec, but more like stock below that. I'm sure a CAI will help. I'm close to ordering one. It's amazing how the F20C responds to cold air - the throttle response and feel from the engine is incredible in cold evening air, if the grip is there! I'm aiming to get the engine feeling like this 24:7 - not adding more power, but getting all the design power all the time.
One other point is that the engine does suffer from heat soak in stop/go traffic. There is a thread here that has some opinions about the cooling parts - Mugen/Spoon. If you want UK results on the Spoon parts... wait a little
-Brian.
The Iridium plugs have helped low down as well - though I've recently increased the gap which seems better in Vtec, but more like stock below that. I'm sure a CAI will help. I'm close to ordering one. It's amazing how the F20C responds to cold air - the throttle response and feel from the engine is incredible in cold evening air, if the grip is there! I'm aiming to get the engine feeling like this 24:7 - not adding more power, but getting all the design power all the time.
One other point is that the engine does suffer from heat soak in stop/go traffic. There is a thread here that has some opinions about the cooling parts - Mugen/Spoon. If you want UK results on the Spoon parts... wait a little
-Brian.
#66
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I havent changed fuel - Ive been on Optimin for several fills now.
I have removed the MAP sensor and "tapped" it. Im wondering how good this is tho because the seal didnt look that good to me - just two screws and a small rubber washer - it must be measuring high air pressures???
I will try resetting the ECU tho.
Keith
I have removed the MAP sensor and "tapped" it. Im wondering how good this is tho because the seal didnt look that good to me - just two screws and a small rubber washer - it must be measuring high air pressures???
I will try resetting the ECU tho.
Keith
#67
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Has everyone seen the US guys cheap CAI alternative:-
Here
The theory being to shield the top of the rad from the air intake, I guess it would need some sort of heat resistant pipe lagging from B&Q or something.
Here
The theory being to shield the top of the rad from the air intake, I guess it would need some sort of heat resistant pipe lagging from B&Q or something.
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