F20C Engine Rebuild
05-29-2015, 12:32 AM
#21
05-29-2015, 01:17 AM
#22
Nice to see common sense and good practice when it comes to this. Assuming you had good compression, if you remove all the crap from the failed bearing and replace anything worn or broken - there is no reason at all why the engine should not be just as good as it was before it started to fail.
I think most people overlook the cleanup job and it always comes back to haunt them in the end.
I think most people overlook the cleanup job and it always comes back to haunt them in the end.
05-29-2015, 02:47 AM
#23
I had an engine replaced under the OEM warranty at 17k miles. The fault was little end rattle, but the cause was low oil pressure at certain RPM's.
The oil pump was deemed to be at fault but there was nothing visibly or measurably wrong with it. However, when you turned it it felt slightly stiffer at certain points in its rotation.
If all that swarf has gone through the oil pump and you're going to the effort of rebuilding the whole engine, i would replace the pump.
The oil pump was deemed to be at fault but there was nothing visibly or measurably wrong with it. However, when you turned it it felt slightly stiffer at certain points in its rotation.
If all that swarf has gone through the oil pump and you're going to the effort of rebuilding the whole engine, i would replace the pump.
05-29-2015, 03:07 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by lovegroova' timestamp='1432637387' post='23624754
As someone with an older engine which may explode at any time, may I ask how much the work so far has cost you?
...
One thing is for sure, every part I've had to buy for the engine is, comparatively speaking, reassuringly expensive. But then, it is a great design with huge power. It's not possible to drink champagne on a beer budget.
Cheers
James.
05-29-2015, 03:25 AM
#25
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I had an engine replaced under the OEM warranty at 17k miles. The fault was little end rattle, but the cause was low oil pressure at certain RPM's.
The oil pump was deemed to be at fault but there was nothing visibly or measurably wrong with it. However, when you turned it it felt slightly stiffer at certain points in its rotation.
If all that swarf has gone through the oil pump and you're going to the effort of rebuilding the whole engine, i would replace the pump.
The oil pump was deemed to be at fault but there was nothing visibly or measurably wrong with it. However, when you turned it it felt slightly stiffer at certain points in its rotation.
If all that swarf has gone through the oil pump and you're going to the effort of rebuilding the whole engine, i would replace the pump.
05-29-2015, 03:41 AM
#26
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Hi Lower
I am going to reassemble the existing pump, and see what it 'feels' like. I have provisioned a new oil pump in the build budget. It would indeed be madness to risk fitting a less than tip top pump.
Apart from the mechanical aspect of the pumping element, the integrated pressure relief valve can stick or bind in its housing leading to a pressure drop. This would also cause the unfortunate problem that you suffered, without any obvious evidence.
Cheers
James.
I am going to reassemble the existing pump, and see what it 'feels' like. I have provisioned a new oil pump in the build budget. It would indeed be madness to risk fitting a less than tip top pump.
Apart from the mechanical aspect of the pumping element, the integrated pressure relief valve can stick or bind in its housing leading to a pressure drop. This would also cause the unfortunate problem that you suffered, without any obvious evidence.
Cheers
James.
05-29-2015, 03:49 AM
#27
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Interesting read... I'm going through a similar situation at the moment, too. My rod bearing went (oil starvation) and the crank face where it meets the rod/bearing has turned oval in shape!
I'll be doing a full strip down and rebuild like you, but since it's apart I'm looking seriously at going for the BC 2.4 stroker (or perhaps the k24 crank conversion, depending on the condition of the pistons and sleeves) along with various other upgrades.
Where are you getting your cylinder work done? I haven't done much investigation into the exact honing process, yet, but it'd be good to know who had done it before. I know TGM have a vendor which are capable, but I need to find out if they'll give me their details (or just contract it through them).
Following with interest - I'm betting my piston jet bolts look very similar to this!
I'll be doing a full strip down and rebuild like you, but since it's apart I'm looking seriously at going for the BC 2.4 stroker (or perhaps the k24 crank conversion, depending on the condition of the pistons and sleeves) along with various other upgrades.
Where are you getting your cylinder work done? I haven't done much investigation into the exact honing process, yet, but it'd be good to know who had done it before. I know TGM have a vendor which are capable, but I need to find out if they'll give me their details (or just contract it through them).
Following with interest - I'm betting my piston jet bolts look very similar to this!
05-29-2015, 11:55 AM
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Interesting read... I'm going through a similar situation at the moment, too. My rod bearing went (oil starvation) and the crank face where it meets the rod/bearing has turned oval in shape!
I'll be doing a full strip down and rebuild like you, but since it's apart I'm looking seriously at going for the BC 2.4 stroker (or perhaps the k24 crank conversion, depending on the condition of the pistons and sleeves) along with various other upgrades.
Where are you getting your cylinder work done? I haven't done much investigation into the exact honing process, yet, but it'd be good to know who had done it before. I know TGM have a vendor which are capable, but I need to find out if they'll give me their details (or just contract it through them).
Following with interest - I'm betting my piston jet bolts look very similar to this!
I'll be doing a full strip down and rebuild like you, but since it's apart I'm looking seriously at going for the BC 2.4 stroker (or perhaps the k24 crank conversion, depending on the condition of the pistons and sleeves) along with various other upgrades.
Where are you getting your cylinder work done? I haven't done much investigation into the exact honing process, yet, but it'd be good to know who had done it before. I know TGM have a vendor which are capable, but I need to find out if they'll give me their details (or just contract it through them).
Following with interest - I'm betting my piston jet bolts look very similar to this!
05-29-2015, 12:07 PM
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Flipz
You'll probably have metallic particles throughout. Take the vtech solenoid out and check the filter there too. You'll have to pull the engine to bits and rinse and flush.
The FRM honing process should be able to be done by any competent shop. They will need too get the correct abrasive stones for their honing equipment and follow the process detailed in the workshop manual.
I spent a few hours today cleaning up all of the mating surfaces ready for the trial fitting and sizing of the crank and bearings. I fitted the block to my engine stand and am hoping to have the crank bolted in properly tomorrow.
Are you pulling the head apart too during your build?
Good luck with whichever way you decide to go with yours.
Cheers
James.
You'll probably have metallic particles throughout. Take the vtech solenoid out and check the filter there too. You'll have to pull the engine to bits and rinse and flush.
The FRM honing process should be able to be done by any competent shop. They will need too get the correct abrasive stones for their honing equipment and follow the process detailed in the workshop manual.
I spent a few hours today cleaning up all of the mating surfaces ready for the trial fitting and sizing of the crank and bearings. I fitted the block to my engine stand and am hoping to have the crank bolted in properly tomorrow.
Are you pulling the head apart too during your build?
Good luck with whichever way you decide to go with yours.
Cheers
James.
05-30-2015, 01:53 AM
#30
I think 'competent shop' is probably the rider here.
Hence many half-rebuilds promptly going bang. It could well be down to the thoroughness of the cleaning process, as much as the thoroughness of the machining process.
Hence many half-rebuilds promptly going bang. It could well be down to the thoroughness of the cleaning process, as much as the thoroughness of the machining process.
