WRCGooseS2K

Hi guys,

I have had some issues with a binding caliper recently and had a play today to free it up.

I posted about it here: Clicky


So having released that my jack didn't fit under my S I got it up in the air to see what the craic was with my RL caliper.

These have been getting very hot so it was to be expected that the pads looked like this:




They were very glazed and one of them is actually beginning to crumble, plus they have weared unevenly.



I have worked on many, many cars in the past and I have to say this has been ace to work on.


It was clearly not the sliders as they were nice and lubricated and no signs or any problems.





This was the piston in situ as I found it, very corroded.




So I gave some squirts of penetrative spray and placed the caliper on the wrong location in order to use it as a pivot to turn the piston back and put my brake winding tool in just incase all went wrong.




So I gave the brake pedal a stab and the piston pushed out and it certainly wasn't in the best of conditions. The rubber seal wasn't great either.



So I gave it a bit more spray, took the fluid cap off to make things easier and worked the piston back in, which proved tough the first time and just kept working the piston in and out and it appears to be much freer now.
It's going to need a new caliper and some replacement pads, which I will do soon but it's working much better it seems at the moment and gave the pads a scratch up to take the glaze off them.
The disc seemed absolutely fine and the car brakes very well and in a straight line.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

Petron

Thanks for this, good job, and pics very helpful. I have a similar problem (RR). When changing the pads a couple of weeks ago one piston was much tougher to wind in and it looks pretty corroded (much like yours in the pic). Going to try your tip to free it up, but in the long term will either need replacements or possibly reconditioning. Is reconditioning worthwhile or is it best to just replace with new?

WRCGooseS2K

Recons are fine but a new one is always going to be better. I've refurbed many caliper s before but I don't have the facilities to do it now. A new caliper is going to have to be the way for me. Bt if I'm doing one I should do the other side at least so it's even, and since one sides worth of pads have been cooked I may as well replace all rear pads too!

drives

This is the same problem I'm having at the moment with uneven pad wear. When I changed the discs and pads a few months ago the rear calipers looked like yours; to get them wound back I had to put an extension bar on the calipers rewind tool to get them to budge. They were rediculously hard to push back, however no uneven pad wear then and my calipers aren't sticking I don't think. So what do you think has caused the uneven pad wear?

davemr2

A hacksaw blade or wet and dry are good for deglazing pads. Am re drilling the holes in my discs they get filled with pad dust along with the groves and gives them a good service

lovegroova

I have a new in the box reconditioned right rear caliper for sale: https://www.s2ki.com/...rms-toyo-r888s/

New calipers are very expensive.

CynicG

I'll take your calliper if its OSR as mine has seized. pMed but not sure if it went through as in a rush

Dembo

If you remove the piston completely, there'll probably be a ring of rust about half way along it - somebody posted a picture just recently. Cleaning up the ends won't hurt, but it's not going to solve the problem for long. If you're determined you can replace just the piston and seals yourself, there's probably nothing wrong with the caliper. But the ready assembled refurb is much easier. And don't buy a new one, that's just silly.

Those pads don't look too bad to me, and they never seem to wear evenly.

AlyWW

I've removed the piston from one of my rear brakes to get another summers' life out of it, does anybody know the best technique for getting the piston boot seal back in when re-assembling? I've spent ages trying to get it all back together.

Cheers

WRCGooseS2K

Think the best thing is certainly to replace the caliper but I'm the sort of person (must be my engineer head) that will want to replace the other side too so I know they are even.