Geometry Discussion...
#11
Originally Posted by r8byb,Jan 7 2011, 04:40 AM
Hope that helps
Like "I do blah blah because", the what why and results format.
#12
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Originally Posted by richmc,Jan 7 2011, 05:06 AM
Nice simple English thanks, can we keep the thread like that?
Like "I do blah blah because", the what why and results format.
Like "I do blah blah because", the what why and results format.
I did it to genrally make the car more exciting but also feel more stable ...
And to fit my wheels in my arches
#13
Rough averages:
Camber: -1˚15'
Toe: 0˚01' (out)
Caster: 6˚15'
Rear:
Camber: -1˚44'
Toe: 0˚10' (in)
Like LG I used to have lots of rear toe, which makes the rear feel very solid and you could chuck it into corners and hit the throttle to play with the rear end. Now it's all a bit different, and the rear feels loose all the time, but at the same time easier to control. The reason I wanted to change is because with lots of rear toe, and lots of motorway miles, my rear tyres were lasting 5 minutes.
Remember camber depends on how much the car rolls, so if you have stiffer springs and/or upgraded anti-roll bars you can have less camber to get the same effect. Camber is good for long hard corners, but reduces your straight ahead grip. With lots of front camber the steering feels pretty horrible, and it's quite easy to lock up the front brakes.
Caster gives you more camber as you turn, but the main effect you'll notice is the weight of the steering. I don't really like the amount of caster I have on mine now, as it makes the steering too heavy and numb, but it does feel more stable at speed.
Everything's a compromise.
Camber: -1˚15'
Toe: 0˚01' (out)
Caster: 6˚15'
Rear:
Camber: -1˚44'
Toe: 0˚10' (in)
Like LG I used to have lots of rear toe, which makes the rear feel very solid and you could chuck it into corners and hit the throttle to play with the rear end. Now it's all a bit different, and the rear feels loose all the time, but at the same time easier to control. The reason I wanted to change is because with lots of rear toe, and lots of motorway miles, my rear tyres were lasting 5 minutes.
Remember camber depends on how much the car rolls, so if you have stiffer springs and/or upgraded anti-roll bars you can have less camber to get the same effect. Camber is good for long hard corners, but reduces your straight ahead grip. With lots of front camber the steering feels pretty horrible, and it's quite easy to lock up the front brakes.
Caster gives you more camber as you turn, but the main effect you'll notice is the weight of the steering. I don't really like the amount of caster I have on mine now, as it makes the steering too heavy and numb, but it does feel more stable at speed.
Everything's a compromise.
#15
Originally Posted by MB,Jan 7 2011, 02:49 PM
Can't remember mine but it was track based rather than road, as I didn't really drive my S much.
#17
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loftust says:
Front Camber: 1˚30'
Front Toe: 0˚
Castor: 6˚
This setup provides a stable front end with a tight feeling, and provides good initial and mid turn, turn in. The front end has lots of 'feel', which will soon be improved with my uprated ARB I have lowish castor as it is a steering damper, rather than 'weighting' the feeling of the wheel.
Rear Camber: 1˚30'
Rear Toe: 0.3˚
This setup is a compromise between grip and wear. The back end does not feel saggy, but soild, and has not let go, even in this wet weather...although I do drive with regards to the conditions
My coilovers (KWV3) do make one hell of a difference to the way the car handles however, properly comfortable, whilst performing well
Front Camber: 1˚30'
Front Toe: 0˚
Castor: 6˚
This setup provides a stable front end with a tight feeling, and provides good initial and mid turn, turn in. The front end has lots of 'feel', which will soon be improved with my uprated ARB I have lowish castor as it is a steering damper, rather than 'weighting' the feeling of the wheel.
Rear Camber: 1˚30'
Rear Toe: 0.3˚
This setup is a compromise between grip and wear. The back end does not feel saggy, but soild, and has not let go, even in this wet weather...although I do drive with regards to the conditions
My coilovers (KWV3) do make one hell of a difference to the way the car handles however, properly comfortable, whilst performing well
#18
The oem rear camber of 1.5degrees is not enough on a track with oem suspension.
I have seen a few S2000 now with scrubbed outer edges of rear tyres after a track day.
Go to 2.5 at the back for summer hard driving.
If you want safe understeer, then dont up the fronts more the same amount.
Note also all of the interactions Dembo rightly listed.
Fitting bigger rubber up front will give more grip for example.
But more grip allows higher cornering speeds, and hence more body roll.
So you might require more camber. Etc etc...
I have seen a few S2000 now with scrubbed outer edges of rear tyres after a track day.
Go to 2.5 at the back for summer hard driving.
If you want safe understeer, then dont up the fronts more the same amount.
Note also all of the interactions Dembo rightly listed.
Fitting bigger rubber up front will give more grip for example.
But more grip allows higher cornering speeds, and hence more body roll.
So you might require more camber. Etc etc...
#19
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Finally got mine scanned in.
Went for pretty safe settings in regards to negative camber, feels very good though, baring in mind that they were well out and I had a siezed bush.
Still, all done now, nice and planted, the step out is much more progressive than it was before.
Went for pretty safe settings in regards to negative camber, feels very good though, baring in mind that they were well out and I had a siezed bush.
Still, all done now, nice and planted, the step out is much more progressive than it was before.
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