streffie

After my earlier post about the hid problem i put those to one side and do what i do best, The performance side !!.

Got my car on the ramp attached my lazer alignment gauges and camber gauges and set to make the the s2k handle naturally and neutral. So lets GO.

After checking all settings as they were and writing them down these included :- ride height (front and rear) camber (front an rear) castor (front) toe (front and rear) and four wheel alignment, What a load os shite not one of the settings were in tolourance.

Tyre pressures. 32 psi.

All four corners were in tolourance Front 192-202 mm rear 220-230 mine were front 200 mm rears 227 mm.

So lets go first i set the front camber not to standard (-0'30 +/-10 degrees) but to 3/4 of a degree,much better in corners more feed back and the front grips like poo to a blanket. i usually run much more on bm's ive had in the past 1.5 degrees on my m3 e36 but that was a much heavier car so as a starting point 3/4's would be great.

Then to the castor in the real word castor is a big factor of control under braking so i put this to standard for now and when i have more time i will play

The toe on the front i left standard as honda set it parralel which on a vehicle with top and bottom arms is great a you dont get toe movement under braking like you do with macphearson struts.

Then on to the rear toe while adjusting the rear toe its best to do the camber at the same time so i set the rear camber to 1.5 degrees which is .2 degrees more than honda set it, and the toe well 6 mm !!! what the hell so i reduced this to 3mm to stop the car being so snachey and unpredictable while hard cornering / drifting, fingers crossed i had got it right .

Then i re-torqued all nuts and bolts and roadtest here i come.

What has just happened to my S its like a different car you can push the front soooo hard i was laughing while entering a round about straight away it turned in so much better and faster an held a much tighter line than i could of ever imagined before, then half way around in secound gear i nailed it at about 5000 rpm just before V-TECH grip was imence then slowly the rear just started to brake free into a beautiul drift which i needed to feed on about just under half a turn of opposite lock to control then bring it back to exit on to the dual track without any snachyness tail whipping of any type still laughing at the difference this had made.

Then off to the twistys where there are some tight left rights with crests again not a hint of unpredictable movement so did the run in the opposite direction, just the same.

Usually at this point i would be thinking to my self what do i need to do to make this better but for once i didnt have these thoughts so i will leave well alone now including the front castor and just check it every few months

europa

<Engage Unreal Tournament voice>

IMMMMM---PRESSIVE

aaroncosbey

Ultra_Nexus

Just curious, how does that machine do camber?

streffie

the camber gauge is not in the picture they are just the alignment gauges i use a good old fasioned dunlop camber caster gauge set up but must confess im in the market for one of thoes new digtal electronic one that connect to the gauges shown in the picture, much easier to use than the old dunlop type that i have at the moment.

Dembo

3mm is 0

m1bjr

[QUOTE=streffie,Sep 4 2008, 10:59 PM] Then to the castor in the real word castor is a big factor of control under braking so i put this to standard for now and when i have more time i will play

streffie

Yes i agree with you but to many try and explain that ???

its best shown under braking as if you have little castor your wheels will lock earlier than if you have more (but not to much) as the damper angle with little castor is more up right giving less dampnig affect causing the wheels to lock under braking