Head Gasket Replacement Advice Please
 

Afternoon all,

Following a slightly cack-handed timing chain replacement a few years ago (not my own handywork!), the front part of my head gasket is damaged and a slight leak has slowly been getting worse. It still doesn't register on the dipstick, but I want to sort it, hence I'm going to replace the head gasket.

Has anyone carried out a head gasket replacement with the engine in the car, who would be willing to offer any advice/lessons learned from the procedure? It's not a job that I've done before, but I'm confident I can tackle it. I already have the sump off, pulleys removed and timing chain cover removed (in order to diagnose the leak).

I've seen a half-finished thread on the Honda Tech forum saying that it's possible to do it whilst leaving the intake manifold in place (i.e. by sliding the cylinder head out vertically), but I assume this isn't possible with the exhaust manifold? I can't find too many other helpful threads.

It's a 2004 car, so I don't think the valve retainers will need doing, but is there any other work I should be doing whilst it's apart that might prolong the life of the engine?

My parts list currently reads as follows. Anything missing?

Oil (not doing filter, only replaced 1000 miles ago)
Coolant
Gaskets (Head, Exhaust, Intake)
Head Bolts x10 (not strictly necessary, but I figured I won't want to do the job again so I might as well replace them).

Thoughts and advice gratefully received.

Rgds
Chris

just do the filter for the sake of a few quid

have done plenty of head gaskets but alas not an S2000 yet but to give little advice

after running the engine for a while or 500 miles change the oil filter, you stated you were not going to change it, but for the sake of a tenner why not
when cleaning the top of the block and doing other work you will be disturbing bits of crap that will fall down oil galleries.

Fair point. I'll stick a new one on. https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/public/st...t/thumbsup.gif

The difficulty with the intake manifold is getting at the bolts to get it off. Since you have to do that anyway, I'd remove it. The head isn't light, so not having to do any extra maneuvering makes life a lot easier. Trying to leave the intake/exhaust manifolds makes some degree of sense to a mechanic trying to cut the work time, but for DIY you're likely to just slow the job down. Be careful to have something to hand for holding the timing chain up and also take care when refitting the idler gear. Then you're juggling gear, chain and washer... can be a bit of a faff.

-Brian.

Thanks Brian, seems reasonable. I was thinking about the time saved removing fuel rail, injectors etc, depressurising the system, getting coolant hoses off etc. For teh timing chain, I'll use my bent coathanger that I usually save for holding brake calipers out the way! Will make sure it's spotless first though.

Any thoughts on an insulating intake gasket and whether they're worth bothering with to reduce IAT?

I've read that those intake manifold gaskets are more hassle than they are worth on our inlets, stories of the nuts coming loose and pissing coolant out.

I did my head with the engine out of the car so can't offer much advice other than do it on a day where you have a lot of patience, the inlet manifold is awkward even with the engine on a stand, the obvious knock sensor issue is something to be mindful of, you are better off dropping the exhaust manifold off completely in my opinion but thats not to say that it can't be done in situ.

When dealing with a blown head-gasket, we sometimes had to send the head to the machine shop down the road to be skimmed. You might want to look into this when you get the head off :) Also, if you're getting head-bolts either go for OEM or ARP.

We can supply a Spoon 2 ply metal head gasket. More hardcore than the OEM gasket. Slight raise in compression but otherwise a direct replacement. Members get 10% discount too!