Help My S2000
#21
I'm definitely going to get my geometry checked in the next couple of weeks as well - I've just picked up an s2000 and the handling is ok, however you don't really know until you get it looked at properly eh.
Hope your probs are sorted soon James
Hope your probs are sorted soon James
#23
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What tire pressure are you running? The Bridgestones that were OEM fittment have stiff sidewalls so changing to another brand may require more pressure, my Toyo T1r's needed 36 psi
Also different tire pressure across the rear axle make the car twitchy on and off the throttle
Check you don't have one or more directional tires fitted the wrong way
Also different tire pressure across the rear axle make the car twitchy on and off the throttle
Check you don't have one or more directional tires fitted the wrong way
#24
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Right ive had my car back from the garage. They managed to do the front allignment OK as those bushes werent too bad. Apparently the front allignment was miles out! The rear bushes are seized so they have done the allignment on the rear as best they can. Apparently its just in tollerance on one side and just out of tollerance on the other side.
It also needed an antiroll bar drop link.
I know the geo graph is not too clear on the computer but it works better if you save it to your computer, open it, and zoom in, you can see all the info then. The numbers and settings mean absolutely bugger all to me really but the chap at the garage pretty much said thats about as good as he can get it.
Just taken it out for a drive. The front deffo feels much better. Much more positive, goes where i want it to go now, and feels quite a lot stiffer too. Much better.
It still wonders around a lot under hard braking, but im wondering how much of that was down to the fact the road surface was a bit shite and how much of it would be to do with a rear binding brake that I have as well (a mate of mine is going to strip it down and clean it in the next few weeks) and maybe a little bit too much speed on my part!
Either way, it feels much better but still not 100%.
Anyone have any opinions on the graph? How does the graph look compared to a standard setup on an S2k?
It also needed an antiroll bar drop link.
I know the geo graph is not too clear on the computer but it works better if you save it to your computer, open it, and zoom in, you can see all the info then. The numbers and settings mean absolutely bugger all to me really but the chap at the garage pretty much said thats about as good as he can get it.
Just taken it out for a drive. The front deffo feels much better. Much more positive, goes where i want it to go now, and feels quite a lot stiffer too. Much better.
It still wonders around a lot under hard braking, but im wondering how much of that was down to the fact the road surface was a bit shite and how much of it would be to do with a rear binding brake that I have as well (a mate of mine is going to strip it down and clean it in the next few weeks) and maybe a little bit too much speed on my part!
Either way, it feels much better but still not 100%.
Anyone have any opinions on the graph? How does the graph look compared to a standard setup on an S2k?
#25
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brakes and existing tyre wear are the likely 2 contributors to your instability.
i had mine adjusted recently, and while lots better, it still wanders a bit. front tyres arent the best wear pattern (inside edge worn due to too much toe out) and are the problem in my case.
i'm going to say budget £60 or so for a new calliper. common problem on the S's where the piston corrodes and sticks/seizes. ultimate fix is replacement, otherwise it's just delaying the inevitable.
i had mine adjusted recently, and while lots better, it still wanders a bit. front tyres arent the best wear pattern (inside edge worn due to too much toe out) and are the problem in my case.
i'm going to say budget £60 or so for a new calliper. common problem on the S's where the piston corrodes and sticks/seizes. ultimate fix is replacement, otherwise it's just delaying the inevitable.
#26
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It's still a long way off being right in a few areas.
Front:
Camber: 29' on the left and 37' on the right is not good - they should be the same
Caster: +5°09' on the left and +3°20' on the right is way out of spec. Both should be around 6°00'
Toe: this is good
Rear:
Camber: you have positive camber on the left - the wheel is leaning outwards when it should be leaning inwards. Standard target is -1°30' each side
Toe: you have wildly differing toe angles on each side.
Assuming I've read the chart correctly (which I may not have done as everything looks so bad), whoever did this, did a very poor job indeed.
Ideally you want the LH and RH values to be the same.
The front caster numbers indicate that something is not straight.
Front:
Camber: 29' on the left and 37' on the right is not good - they should be the same
Caster: +5°09' on the left and +3°20' on the right is way out of spec. Both should be around 6°00'
Toe: this is good
Rear:
Camber: you have positive camber on the left - the wheel is leaning outwards when it should be leaning inwards. Standard target is -1°30' each side
Toe: you have wildly differing toe angles on each side.
Assuming I've read the chart correctly (which I may not have done as everything looks so bad), whoever did this, did a very poor job indeed.
Ideally you want the LH and RH values to be the same.
The front caster numbers indicate that something is not straight.
#27
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just re-looked at that chart, shouldn't those delta values be 0? (presuming everything can be adjusted correctly).
rear camber might just be due to seized bushes.
a pair of outside-spec matched settings would be (arguably) better than a pair of in-spec, but very different values (eg: those rear camber values)
did they give you a full breakdown of which bushes were seized?
rear camber might just be due to seized bushes.
a pair of outside-spec matched settings would be (arguably) better than a pair of in-spec, but very different values (eg: those rear camber values)
did they give you a full breakdown of which bushes were seized?
#28
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#29
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