Tim S

Do one thing at a time and see what difference it makes.

Will 245 rears fit if you lose the spacers? That would be my first move.

Si2k

I'd raise it a bit and get suspension alignment done. For all you know the wheels could all be pointing in different directions and causing the issue.

Steering rack spacers will help the front bump steer and are pretty cheap and easy to fit. Get a front lower brace too, tightens things up

loftust

Ditch the 18s first - no point having new rubber on wheels that don't work as well as 17s. Then get tyres, then alter ride height and geo.

Whilst raising the height and a geo may improve the current setup, it'll still be far short of being enjoyable on our roads.

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Ultra_Nexus

The diameter of the wheels is fine, it's the width/offset that aren't correct.

Flog the wheels and get some 18s (or 17s) that have the correct offsets/widths (7.5-8" front 8-8.5" rear with anything around the ET55 offset). Raise the car a tad - 10mm is plenty. Try mucking about with the damping over your favourite roads. Ignore handling and concentrate on composure of bumps.

After, and only after, you have done that you can start playing with your geometry. Decide and note what the car is doing to annoy you. Does it understeer/oversteer too much, is it pulling under braking, does it turn left better than right etc etc. Then, when you go to the geo centre, you can see if what you feel corresponds to your current geo.

E4RTH WORM JIM

My biggest concern would be if the suspension bolts seized?.

If so, this will probably mean the car has been lowered and the geo is still out of a drivable spec. You'll then have more work to do so you'll have more to decide on whether to keep the wheels or sell them. 17" wheels are preferred to 18's.

If you keep them I'd: raise the ride height by 10mm, take the wheels off and find out the offset, fit a bumper steer kit (front and rear), lose the rear spacer as you don't need this on a 9" wheel, change bushes if there fecked, fit new rubber in a staggered formation, get the geo done to as near OEM spec as the suspension will let you at that ride height.

Jobs a goodun

noodels

http://www.anewtoronto.com/wheel%20alignment.html

Riknos

215 rear tyres? Not having a go at you OP, more so the previous owner - do people not realise Honda fitted the staggered F>R tyre setup FOR A REASON?

I swear some idiots get hold of cars and go "Honda have 50 years engineering experience, but I know better". I'm just lost for words. I didn't realise people ruined S2000s with 'stancing' them - thought that was more of an MX-5 thing due to the fact the kids can afford them...

MB

Are you sure those rears are 215? They don't look that stretched if they are 8.5" rear.

MIP

•Change the tyres:
◦Front: 225/40

◦Rear: 245/35


On 18" wheels doesn't that give you a larger rolling radius? That'll hurt your gearing/acceleration and make your speedo inaccurate.


I have the OEM 17" wheels and standard sized tyres, my car is maybe 30mm lower than normal on KWv3's, and that clears most speed bumps with only the occasional little scrape (of the rear brace).

Simon W

You could do worse than get in touch with Chris Franklin at Center Gravity. Tell him what you want to achieve (as in your OP) and I'm sure he'll be happy to advise you. He knows what he is talking about. He supplied and fitted Bilstein PSS9s and set up my geo when I had my S, but before I went down that route he advised me about various different options.